One knobby, one slick -- which wheel gets what?
#1
One knobby, one slick -- which wheel gets what?
The knobby is 1.95 wide, the slick is 1.4 wide. For city use,
which tire do i put in front?
what setup would be faster?
help with hand vibration?
overall bumpyness?
which tire do i put in front?
what setup would be faster?
help with hand vibration?
overall bumpyness?
#4
Yet another vegan biker
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 965
Likes: 6
From: Trapped behind the corn curtain
Bikes: Sakae Prism, Vintage Fuji bike(S), too many bikes, one from scratch bike.
There are several reasons I would, and do, run the slick as the rear tire.
The rear tire bears the most weight and creates the most drag. Putting a higher pressure slick in the rear will greatly boost your speed.
The front wheel is the critical wheel for steering traction and the the wider knobby will helpkeep steering smooth through bumps and potholes.
The rear tire bears the most weight and creates the most drag. Putting a higher pressure slick in the rear will greatly boost your speed.
The front wheel is the critical wheel for steering traction and the the wider knobby will helpkeep steering smooth through bumps and potholes.
#5
I find traction adequate with 2 knobs on road for the way I ride.
I wen't with the slick in back. Didn't test very long, but doesn't seem too bumpy in back.
Sheldon Brown's site suggests this will be the fastest setup. The big question mark for me was whether smaller smooth tire in front has less vibration than large knobby.
I wen't with the slick in back. Didn't test very long, but doesn't seem too bumpy in back.
Sheldon Brown's site suggests this will be the fastest setup. The big question mark for me was whether smaller smooth tire in front has less vibration than large knobby.
#6
Yet another vegan biker
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 965
Likes: 6
From: Trapped behind the corn curtain
Bikes: Sakae Prism, Vintage Fuji bike(S), too many bikes, one from scratch bike.
Uh... try some at-the-limit sliding cornering with the slick vs. knobby in front. Which do you think would be smoother? Which do you think would be sketchy?
As far as traction goes, slicks have better traction on pavement.
I currently use a 1.5 Geax slick on front with a Ritchey 1.00 slick driving the rear. Its a tremendous speed difference over running 1 or both knobbies.
I rarely use that mt bike anymore for commuting. Now it only gets used on rainy days. Most of the time I ride my road bike and it sports 700 x 23 slicks. They reliably carry me over the 2 miles of gravel that I must cross on my daily commute.
#7
Amateur Hack
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 135
Likes: 0
From: Austin
Bikes: Marin mtb turned tri turned commuter turned singlespeed, Haro Werks 2.0, Specialized Epic Allez carbon main tube built up for triathlons
I'd put the fatty on the rear to use the extra air to absorb shocks to my butt. If I was more concerned about my hands, I'd put it up front. If you are really worried about speed, go and buy another slick.
#9
Drive the Bicycle.

Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 608
Likes: 0
From: Northern California
Bikes: Three-speed modified for comfort.
Originally Posted by godspiral
The knobby is 1.95 wide, the slick is 1.4 wide. For city use, ...which tire do i put in front?
https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...ight=mix+match
__________________
"The bicycle is the perfect transducer to match man's metabolic energy to the impedance of locomotion. Equipped with this tool, man outstrips the efficiency of not only all machines but all other animals as well." Ivan Illich ('Energy and Equity')1974
"The bicycle is the perfect transducer to match man's metabolic energy to the impedance of locomotion. Equipped with this tool, man outstrips the efficiency of not only all machines but all other animals as well." Ivan Illich ('Energy and Equity')1974
#10
Originally Posted by sunofsand
For city use I'd go with two slicks. Why do you need one knobby tire on the city streets?
So far slick on back feels slightly faster (but not dramatically), but its comfortable.
#12
I'm up to 2 slicks now. Have a similar bike with 2 knobs that is setup most of the time as a grocery getter, but is also the wife's touring-by-designation bike.
Some of the results from the experiment:
There is a much bigger impact on speed going from knob to slick on back, than from adding the 2nd slick.
big knobby on front or back is noticeably more comfortable for bumbs, and a slight improvement on vibration. A $25 nimus 1.5 with kevlar thicker decorative-hybrid-rain-car-tire thread seems noticeably more comfortable than a $20 no-name 1.4 slick.
I don't really understand the traction arguments on road. The only time I've come close to losing traction was turning too quick too slow, and remedied by pedalling/accelerating out of it. Front wheel traction might come into play trying to go as fast as possible downhill on a twisty path, but that seems more like offroad scenario, and at least not typical city commuting riding style.
Fatter tires seem to handle great on roads, and knobbies appear to have perfectly adequate traction. Handling 1.95 knobbies seems better than 1.4/1.5 slicks, but only marginally.
Some of the results from the experiment:
There is a much bigger impact on speed going from knob to slick on back, than from adding the 2nd slick.
big knobby on front or back is noticeably more comfortable for bumbs, and a slight improvement on vibration. A $25 nimus 1.5 with kevlar thicker decorative-hybrid-rain-car-tire thread seems noticeably more comfortable than a $20 no-name 1.4 slick.
I don't really understand the traction arguments on road. The only time I've come close to losing traction was turning too quick too slow, and remedied by pedalling/accelerating out of it. Front wheel traction might come into play trying to go as fast as possible downhill on a twisty path, but that seems more like offroad scenario, and at least not typical city commuting riding style.
Fatter tires seem to handle great on roads, and knobbies appear to have perfectly adequate traction. Handling 1.95 knobbies seems better than 1.4/1.5 slicks, but only marginally.
#14
Faster but still slow
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 5,978
Likes: 2
From: Jersey
Bikes: Trek 830 circa 1993 and a Fuji WSD Finest 1.0 2006
Had the same situation. I had one slick, one knobby for my MTB. I put the slick on front and didn't notice much improvement in speed, maybe 1 mph. However, when I put the slick on back, I got a 3-4 mph increase and much better handling and cornering.
#15
Videre non videri
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 3,208
Likes: 4
From: Gothenburg, Sweden
Bikes: 1 road bike (simple, light), 1 TT bike (could be more aero, could be lighter), 1 all-weather commuter and winter bike, 1 Monark 828E ergometer indoor bike
Simple rule:
Loose surfaces - best traction offered by knobbies.
Hard surfaces - best traction offered by slicks.
Loose surfaces - best traction offered by knobbies.
Hard surfaces - best traction offered by slicks.
#18
Originally Posted by Retro Grouch
So tell me. Is this a scheme for making your bike less attractive to thieves?







