Anders K

Has anybody experience in using the Hoadley-True tools for the TS-2 stand?

I was thinking of the one Jim Langley have on his TS-2 shown on this picture https://www.jimlangley.net/wrench/mytruingstand.html

I belive it is the Lateral Dial Gauge Truing Stand Up-grade. Seems like a good idéa with dials to easy read the variations when truing a wheel.

From what I've been told there is also a "Radial Dial Gauge Truing Stand Up-grade" and a "The three leg Dial Gauge Dishing Tool". Now I use the Campagnolo dishingtool so I do'nt know if I will need the Hoadley-true dishing tool. But the other two tools are interesting.

And yes, I know they are out of business but I have been in contact with Rod Hoadley and he still have some tools in stock.

Any suggestions and input are welcome.

mechBgon

I've tried using dial gauges for lateral truing, and find that it's one of those things that looked great on paper but was not nearly so fantastic in practice. For me, anyway. But it makes the customers think you're leet OMG look, he has a dial gauge!

The dial gauge protruding from the left stanchion, now that one is useful

edit: if anyone's wondering about the lateral-true dial gauge seen here, it's a regular old dial gauge tipped with a Presta valve cap, mounted onto part of an old-school Mirracyle (sp?) drop-bar rearview mirror, which is bolted to a Riv-Nut I installed in the TS-2's feeler arm. Most of the time I just fold it aside out of the way so it can impress people without actually interfering with my work. "Oh you want me to use the dial gauge, eh? We charge extra for that... " (j/k)

white lobster

I think that dial gauges are nice in production environments, since they can tell you when a wheel is within spec. I can't imagine using one to actually true a wheel, though. At some point, you learn intuitively how far out of true a wheel is just by watching it spin through the truing stand.

I really like the crank wheels you put on the TS-2. What a great idea.

Any feedback on the TS-3? I used one when they first came out and hated it. I'm still not sure if the TS-3 is really inferior or if I'm just so used to the TS-2 that I can't use anything else. I could never get a wheel to stay put in the TS-3 without a skewer. That lever in back seems like a great idea, but it wouldn't tighten down enough.

mechBgon

The TS-3 is purty to look at and can handle wider rear axles than the TS-2 (tandem wheels), but overall, I prefer using the TS-2 on the TSB-2 base. It's more stable in freestanding use, for one thing, and truing Huffy wheels with a TS-3 would be sort of perverted It's somewhat of an academic point, since I'm not a mechanic anymore. But I the TS-2.

Anders K

My thought most concerns visability. I was playing with the thought of using a dial gauge yesterday when building and truing a wheel with black rim and I really had a hard time to do the fine tuning when the rim was black and the calipers on the TS-2 are black. I tried to get the white sticker in the background and slanting my lamp so the light focused on the calipers. Still I wished I had a better way to see the wobble of the rim and specially with small tolerances.

mechBgon: what kind of dial gauge holders is it on you picture? Have you made them your self or are they sold under a name?

mechBgon

Try getting a white wall in the background, and shift the stand until you get the contrast you need, maybe that'll help. I also may set a fingertip on top of the feeler tip to cast a shadow over it.

I edited my first post with the info for the lateral gauge. The other one indicates how far open the arms are, and in conjunction with the roller-bearing kit for the adjustment shaft and the big aluminum flywheel, it made it very, very fast to hit the arm opening I wanted when doing day-to-day shop work.

mechBgon

Here is a closer photo of the mount, in case it helps.

Soil_Sampler

mech- is that a toggle switch on the left side of your TS-2? I like your TS-2 set-up! I have both stands and like the both, but for reasons each. I put a 12" diameter wood disc under my TS-3, much nicer that way!

mechBgon

Yeah, it signals the winged monkeys to fetch me more coffee

Actually, it's just a spoke magnet for a cyclocomputer that happens to be stuck onto the stand, if you're referring to what I think you are.

Thanks, me too, a machinist friend made those flywheels for me and I love them

eddy m

I use a dial indicator on an old fork. I got the dial at a used tool shop for $10. It's easy to true a wheel made from new parts to 15 or 20/1000, which is what the spec is for good quality wheels. I can't even see 15/1000 without the dial.
My jig takes a little time to set up, but it's just as accurate as any shop stand. If you don't have too much time on your hands, you shouldn't be building wheels anyway.

em