Chain Repair/Replacement?
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Chain Repair/Replacement?
I have the original chain on a mid 80's Fuji Royale sport tourer with the marking NKK on each outer plate.I was repairing some stiff links with a chain tool and noticed an outer plate and one link over an inner plate were bent causing the stiff links and unable to be bent back.So I removed the pins from the outer plate planning to replace it with a spare outer plate that came with the tool however try as I may I cannot get the pins back into the spare and even broke the tool trying to force it .There was a second spare outer plate with extra long pins with grooves that a fastener attaches to that I was able to hook up but this won't make it past the rear derailler mechanism.The questions are what am I doing wrong in replacing the outer plate,is it possible to still replace it and could I just get a new chain without replacing the rear gears which are the originals and if so would a standard multispeed chain do.
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Originally posted by RWTD
I have the original chain on a mid 80's Fuji Royale sport tourer with the marking NKK on each outer plate.I was repairing some stiff links with a chain tool and noticed an outer plate and one link over an inner plate were bent causing the stiff links and unable to be bent back.So I removed the pins from the outer plate planning to replace it with a spare outer plate that came with the tool however try as I may I cannot get the pins back into the spare and even broke the tool trying to force it .There was a second spare outer plate with extra long pins with grooves that a fastener attaches to that I was able to hook up but this won't make it past the rear derailler mechanism.The questions are what am I doing wrong in replacing the outer plate,is it possible to still replace it and could I just get a new chain without replacing the rear gears which are the originals and if so would a standard multispeed chain do.
I have the original chain on a mid 80's Fuji Royale sport tourer with the marking NKK on each outer plate.I was repairing some stiff links with a chain tool and noticed an outer plate and one link over an inner plate were bent causing the stiff links and unable to be bent back.So I removed the pins from the outer plate planning to replace it with a spare outer plate that came with the tool however try as I may I cannot get the pins back into the spare and even broke the tool trying to force it .There was a second spare outer plate with extra long pins with grooves that a fastener attaches to that I was able to hook up but this won't make it past the rear derailler mechanism.The questions are what am I doing wrong in replacing the outer plate,is it possible to still replace it and could I just get a new chain without replacing the rear gears which are the originals and if so would a standard multispeed chain do.
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i think an ordinary common 3/32 replacment chain would do the job ,your lbs might even fit it for you if you ask them @ the time of purchase
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Its a 12 speed so I guess 6 rear gears not a cassette but the other type.As there is not a LBS within walking distance but are both a Target and a Walmart where I think I can find a standard 3/32 are you saying by "fitted"this chain would have to be adjusted to the right length or just put on the bike?Also I have heard a new chain on old gears could cause problems is this accurate?
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you might have to shorten the chain to the same length as the old one , but if its only a link or two diff. i wouldnt worry , it may possibly have one of those joining links we were talking about in another thread, as far as the free-wheel goes you,l have to make a judgment call on how worn your most used sprockets are if its too worn the cluster will need changing too , youl need a special tool for that, but its not hard.
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Yea I just talked with a bike shop and they said if I removed both pins like that I would have to put a master link back in or it would just bend the plates.I was just thinking I could just try shortening the chain I have by one link or does it have to be two?If I took two links out it would remove both the stiff links but the chain might be too short then.
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It's easy enough to check to see if it's too short. With chain apart and wrapped around bib/big without going through deralier there should be 1" or more overlap when pulled tight.
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should be ok to take out a link or two, as long as the chain isnt on the short side already ! the master link will put another link back anyway , a link or so shouldnt be critical ?? i would get the link before you take any out as you might to have an inner link each end for the master link ?
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wow I thought the chain was a little stretched but even with one set of outer plates off it still overlapped by three set of outer plates and three set of inner plates .So I can just remove some of the stiff links I guess and shorten the chain.One link is actually an inner and outer set of plates right?And do I need a master link still if I remove a link or two additional?Its seems if I only remove one pin from the outer when I shorten I wouldn't need a master link.
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Oh, fer chrissakes, just replace the chain! The thing is 15 years old and had stiff links-it's junk!!!
When you go to your LBS, buy a chain (something decent, 8-speed is probably the best-more choices of good-quality chains than in a 3/32 size) and a chain tool. Then fit the chain, as per Sheldon Brown's suggestions. If the cogs are worn, too, you will find out as soon as you take it for a test ride.
P.S.-Wal-Mart doesn't sell chains. Neither does Target.
When you go to your LBS, buy a chain (something decent, 8-speed is probably the best-more choices of good-quality chains than in a 3/32 size) and a chain tool. Then fit the chain, as per Sheldon Brown's suggestions. If the cogs are worn, too, you will find out as soon as you take it for a test ride.
P.S.-Wal-Mart doesn't sell chains. Neither does Target.
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Ok I finally got another chain tool and as the Walmart chain did look low quality I just repaired my existing chain leaving barely 1/2 in. of overlap as I messed up originally trying 1 1/2.It appears to run fine even better than before but mashing in upper gears still catches and pulls up the derailler in one place indicating one more stiff link but at least I can ride the bike to a LBS if needed now.Does 1/2 in. of overlap high/high off the derailler sound alright or might this be too tight?
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Originally posted by RWTD
Ok .Does 1/2 in. of overlap high/high off the derailler sound alright or might this be too tight?
Ok .Does 1/2 in. of overlap high/high off the derailler sound alright or might this be too tight?
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A quick tip: To get the correct chain length, shift into the large chainring and smallest cog - both of the ones furthest right. At the rear derailleur, those two smaller gears should be straight on top of each other... vertical with the ground.
For cleaning, try some Simple Green or a similar degreaser - it works great with a small cleaning brush!
Good luck!
Mike
For cleaning, try some Simple Green or a similar degreaser - it works great with a small cleaning brush!
Good luck!
Mike