I have an un-repairable rim (flat spoted, big rock, last year...) that is almost 3 years old, when im replacing the rim, should i replace the spokes? I would guess theres about 5,000 miles on this rim and spokes. Should i do a complete rebuild, or can i get away with another thousand miles on these spokes before a major rebuild?

You can probably get away with using the same spokes, but only if you use the identical make and model of rim. Otherwise, you'll have a problem w/ spoke size. If you use the same type rim, an easy way to relace the new one is to tape the new rim to the old one and gradually move each spoke to the new rim. It is recommended you replace the nipples when you replace the rim, but I have gotten away w/ using the same nipples - just replaced a few which were getting rounded.

Joe,
Two boxes (20 spokes per box) of DT spokes will cost less than $20 (Nashbar). Why go to the trouble to build a wheel on a new rim with used spokes. They are probably fatigued and who knows what the crash might have done to them metallurgically? I think most people would tell you use new spokes. I don't think I would even use the old ones for spares. Spokes are just too cheap to take chances with. I have saved some broken ones. They look like they might make great shish kabob skewers. Grilled shrimp a la velo, anyone?
Regards,
Raymond

If it wasn't for the big rock/flat spot aspect, I would lean toward re-using the spokes, but as Rainman noted, who knows what the accident may have done invisibly to the spokes?

Donate the old ones to Orguasch's kitchen at the Bike Forums island community, and one of those summer Australian days, we can have a big kabob-fest!

Joe,
What it sounds like to me that you need to do is a rim swap. If you have any doubt about the spokes or nipples just replace them. Doing a rim swap is simple. If you can get the same rim superb. What you do is tape the new rim to the old one. Electrical tape works good, it is also thin. Just line up the valve holes and make sure the spoke holes are lined up. Next Loosen all the spokes, then pick a starting point, and one at a time move the spoke over to the corresponding hole. Next get all the spokes hand tight. Then using a spoke wrench (this is what I do anyway) put a round of tension (one full turn) on all the spokes. Next it is time to take the hops out. If you have a truing stand this wiil help alot. If not you can do it in your frame using the brake pads. This will take longer but you can do it. If it hops down tighten the spokes in that area. If it hops up loosen the spokes in that area. Tighten only in 1/4 turn increments. Loosen the same. Now it is time to dish the wheel. Dish is centering the rim on the hub. In the frame yu can measure from stay to rim, on both sides of the rim. However if you have a dishing tool it is easier. Once you have these two accomplished, it is time for tension and truing. I like to true it first then put tension on it. However you can do it vice versa. If you tension it first put the same turn's on each spoke start off with 1/4 turn's until the spokes are not loose. If you do not have a tension meter do it by feel gauge it by the front wheel or rear whichever is already done. Then true it up. Of course if you alreay knew this then maybe someone else can benefit from it.

Thanks everyone, i went and purchased two boxes of spokes (good deal, ended up with new cleats, bio degreaser, tubes, and two new rims... arg, i hate bike shops!). I did recive the exact same rim as i had, and have done one rim swap in the past.

I thing i'll build it correctly with new spokes today, i have only built two wheels in my lifetime, hopefully this time it wont take 2hrs

Not only that, when i was at the LBS, i got a job offer for bike sales / counter work. and some wrenching... I'm going to drop by tomarro afternoon with a Yes / No answer, the pay is lower then my current job, but it is a dream job... hmmm, discounts... I'll keep ya all updated