I just finished cutting my pitlock skewers to size for my bike. Here are some things I wish I had known before I had bought them.

The skewers are long, and will need to be cut to size. The sheet that comes from Urban Bike Tech suggests either a hacksaw or whatever mechanical implement you choose to use. I find a standard dremel cutting wheel does a nice job. Beware that it does heat the skewer up quite a bit so don't take too long cutting or you may risk warping/weakening the metal.

The easiest way I found to fit the skewers was to just put them on the bike, then mark off flush with the outer cover with a sharpie directly on the skewer. Then remove the various nuts and cut the skewer to size.

I found I could do it directly on the bike with a dremel but if you're using a hacksaw you may wish to use a bench clamp for the wheel skewers.

The seat release skewer measurement goes the same way but before you go to cut it you can just tighten down the nut without the outer protection to keep the skewer securely in place while cutting it with a rotary tool. Again if you're using a hacksaw, a bench and clamp may be better.

The numbered pitlock socket will accomodate a 14mm standard socket over it. As always I used 6 sided sockets. A click-style torque wrench will get you the 8 ft pd of torque that Urban Bike tech recommends. You can get a nice one from Sears for around $50 or so.

You'll need to grease the wheel skewers before using them so make sure you have some around when you get ready to install everything or installation may grind to a halt.

The headset lock is drop in, no cutting required but keep in mind it's polished stainless steel so it'll stand out against a black headset as demonstrated by Urban Bike Tech. I left mine alone, if this really bothers you consider getting something to paint the cover.

https://www.urbanbiketech.com/about_ahead.htm

Anyone else have other suggestions?

For removal of the Pitlock and wheel while out and about you can use an Allan wrench through the holes in the Pitlock socket instead of a 14mm wrench.

Of note, this only works if the skewer has been properly cut down beforehand. Otherwise it'll protrude beyond the point where you can slide the allen wrench all the way through the pitlock key. If that happens you can still try to turn it by wedging the allen wrench in as deep as you can. But you won't be able to generate a lot of torque doing that.

Er, doesn't that defeat the purpose of pitlock? Being able to open it with an allen key?

No you're using the allen key as a lever placed through the actual pitlock key.

Can someone translate this please? Does flush mean excess? Or is it it some specialised part of the skewer? What's the sharpie thing about? Sounds like someone's nickname for their favorite tool but I'm kinda ignorant.

I suspect the Pitlock kit I got has skewers which are going to be too long for my wheels. Family have got someone coming round to do some building work this week and I'm hoping to borrow their tools or if I'm worried about messing it up, see if one of them minds helping me out with it. Be good if I can tell them how someone else has done a good job cutting it down to size.

Thanks

Flush means "in line with the outermost edge of the outer cap (or cone) that protects the security nut from pilfering. Ideally, you'd like the threaded skewer to not extend beyond the outer cap, however I don't think it really matters if it does a wee bit. Too much excess could leave the end of the skewer vulnerable to being bent or damaged in a spill.

In this photo, the skewer is very short, barely extending beyond the security nut.

When using a Dremel with a cut-off wheel to cut any hardened metal (like an allen wrench) I keep a dish of cold water or a wet rag nearby. I dip the part into the water or cool it off with the rag frequently to keep it from getting hot enough to draw the temper. Work slowly, don't force the cutting wheel and cool the part often.

Thanks both of you for the tips. Now I see which side of the skewer is going to possibly stick out I can why it's important to get it trimmed down enough so it's at least protected by the nut from a thief with a cordless Dremel (had to look it up to see what that is!).

Fingers crossed there won't be anything to cut off AND that it doesn't turn out to be too small for my wheels. Going to give it a try tomorrow. Hopefully I can pull this off properly.

Just mount the wheel or seatpost on the bike with the pitlock installed, insert the pit until it engages, then try to fit a 5mm or so allen wrench through the hole. If it goes through without pulling the pit off the nut, your golden - not work needed.
If it pulls the pit off the nut, or can't be inserted because of the skewer then either cut the end slightly proud of the security nut or flush with it.
It takes about 3 seconds with a hacksaw. If you leave it slightly proud - say 1/16" or so you still have enough meat to file the cut end smooth without scratching up the security nut.
I'm running pitlocks on my font wheel and my seatpost plus a security cable to help keep the seat from walking away.

Thieves won't carry allen keys... get with it!

I think they might actually. I've read on here about people having brooks saddles stolen despite locking bolt on post due to undoing the bolt attaching the saddle to the saddlepost. Also, one person said that he once came across a thief undoing the ahead bolt so they could go off with the entire front fork. Both carried out by allen keys.

Also, as someone else said, I think the allen key slots into the pit-key provided with the pitlock pack so it's the actual pit-key slotting into the pitlock bolt and the allen key just acts as a handle/lever to turn it.

Update:

Skewers for front and rear tyres installed fine with only the front one being slightly too long. Rear skewer is a perfect fit. Left off installing the Disc Brake bolts and will instead let the bike shop bit those when I get my free 6 week service in 5 weeks time.

Ahead stem and saddle post bolts were easy to do. All bolts/skewers were throughly greased as per instructions.

Oh, one problem with having the skewer too long is that I was unable to stick the lever into the pit key for "1 - 1.5 turns" once I was unable to turn it any longer by hand. Luckily the Pit-Key is shaped in such a way that pliers were able to grip and twist it without too much effort (i.e. no risk of deforming the pit key).

Thanks for the advice everyone...still a bit anxious though about the wheel skewers and will therefore be keeping the pitkey, pliers and allen key on me at all times to double check the skewers and bolts before each and every ride.

Of course they do, i was being sarcastic... cable cutters, allen keys, wrench... even the worst thief should have one of those things mentioned!

If there is thread sticking out of the skewer, cut it off... you can grab it with pliers and loosen it. At least with the pinhead system.

heck you can grab the head of pin heads with pliers or a gator grip

There is probably 1mm of surface to grab on a pinhead.. don't know about gator grips.