Slipping Seatpost
#1
Thread Starter
hmm..
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 305
Likes: 0
From: RVA
Slipping Seatpost
I've done a search and haven't found anything that really satisfies my question.
I have a 1978 Motobecane that has a continuous slipping seat post. The diameter of the seat post is 25.6mm and is supposedly the right size. When I had this problem with my old seatpost I was using one from a British standard bike, and it was a few mm too small. I went to a LBS and they said the original post was too small and this is the right one. The problem is now back. The bottom bracket on this is Swiss, but I assume the standard everywhere else is French, which is the diameter seatpost that I recently bought for it. However, it seems that no matter how hard the seatpost nut is tightened that either the seat is loose laterally or once a month it will become just loose enough to start slipping down when I go over some rough road.
What's semi-unique about this, or maybe just bad luck, is the seat post is full of scratches. Zig zags from how i put the tube in, and at first I did use grease, but then the grease became a suspected cause for it to slip. So I wiped it down, reinstalled and had no problem. However, now it's started back up again (I went to raise it today). So are there any other things I could do to keep the seat height maintained? The bike is fixed gear, so there's nothing worse than riding to class to have the seat bottom out and my knees in pain. My last resort, is if there's no real remedy to either weld or JB Weld the seat post into place.
I have a 1978 Motobecane that has a continuous slipping seat post. The diameter of the seat post is 25.6mm and is supposedly the right size. When I had this problem with my old seatpost I was using one from a British standard bike, and it was a few mm too small. I went to a LBS and they said the original post was too small and this is the right one. The problem is now back. The bottom bracket on this is Swiss, but I assume the standard everywhere else is French, which is the diameter seatpost that I recently bought for it. However, it seems that no matter how hard the seatpost nut is tightened that either the seat is loose laterally or once a month it will become just loose enough to start slipping down when I go over some rough road.
What's semi-unique about this, or maybe just bad luck, is the seat post is full of scratches. Zig zags from how i put the tube in, and at first I did use grease, but then the grease became a suspected cause for it to slip. So I wiped it down, reinstalled and had no problem. However, now it's started back up again (I went to raise it today). So are there any other things I could do to keep the seat height maintained? The bike is fixed gear, so there's nothing worse than riding to class to have the seat bottom out and my knees in pain. My last resort, is if there's no real remedy to either weld or JB Weld the seat post into place.
#4
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 959
Likes: 0
From: Texas
I had this issue with a newish Trek atb. Switching out the stock quick release binder bolt and putting in an allen one solved the problem. It now works so well I don't take it out and grease it as often as I should. But I hear you, no matter how hard I cranked down that quick release, one solid bump on my ride and the seat went down an inch. Very scary at speed on a descent off road.
#5
Senior Member


Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 11,754
Likes: 26
From: Mesa, AZ
Bikes: Moots RCS, tandem, beach-cruiser, MTB, Specialized-Allez road-bike, custom track-bike
Make sure that the top of the seat-tube is not crimped inwards from previous attempts at cranking down on an undersized seatpost. Remove the seatpost and binder-bolt and carefully look at the slot in the tubing, both sides should be straight and parallel.
The zig-zap scratches on the post is a sign that the top of the seat-tube is actually crimped inwards. The points at the top on each side of the slot is then aimed inwards, scratching the post. This also reduces contact surface area between the post & tubing, it's just pinched at the top and isn't in contact anywhere else. To fix, stick a big flat screwdriver down into that slot and pry it apart so that it's slightly bowed outwards. This will then let you measure the true ID of the seat-tube about 1.5" down from the top. Use precision calipers. Then get a seatpost of that diameter.
When you slide the post down about 2", you SHOULD NOT be able to rock it back & forth with the binder-bolt removed. Then with it fully inserted to operating depth, it takes minimal pressure from the binder-bolt to hold it in place. I suspect that the true seatpost diameter you need is probably closer to 26.2 to 26.6mm.
The zig-zap scratches on the post is a sign that the top of the seat-tube is actually crimped inwards. The points at the top on each side of the slot is then aimed inwards, scratching the post. This also reduces contact surface area between the post & tubing, it's just pinched at the top and isn't in contact anywhere else. To fix, stick a big flat screwdriver down into that slot and pry it apart so that it's slightly bowed outwards. This will then let you measure the true ID of the seat-tube about 1.5" down from the top. Use precision calipers. Then get a seatpost of that diameter.
When you slide the post down about 2", you SHOULD NOT be able to rock it back & forth with the binder-bolt removed. Then with it fully inserted to operating depth, it takes minimal pressure from the binder-bolt to hold it in place. I suspect that the true seatpost diameter you need is probably closer to 26.2 to 26.6mm.
#6
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,616
Likes: 1
Originally Posted by Smiziley
My last resort, is if there's no real remedy to either weld or JB Weld the seat post into place.
If none of the solutions suggested above work, secure a hose clamp to the seatpost to keep it from sliding down farther than you want it to.
They come in all sizes. Marine grade clamps are stainless, and thus won't rust.
Bob
#7
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 469
Likes: 0
From: Cental New Jersey
Bikes: Klein Quantum Pro
As always, check here:
https://sheldonbrown.com/seatpost-sizes-m-z.html#m
Take note that none of the Motobecane's in the '70's had that size seatpost.
https://sheldonbrown.com/seatpost-sizes-m-z.html#m
Take note that none of the Motobecane's in the '70's had that size seatpost.
#8
Senior Member

Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 1,372
Likes: 1
From: Munich
Bikes: Lemond Alpe d´Huez, Scott Sub 10, homemade mtb, Radlbauer adler (old city bike), Dahon impulse (folder with 20 inch wheels), haibike eq xduro
I had this problem and the only solution I found was to take the seatpost out and put some tape round it
__________________
only the dead have seen the end of mass motorized stupidity
Plato
(well if he was alive today he would have written it)
only the dead have seen the end of mass motorized stupidity
Plato
(well if he was alive today he would have written it)
#9
Thread Starter
hmm..
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 305
Likes: 0
From: RVA
Thanks to all the helpful tips. This is a roadbike, not a mtb, I'm not even sure that was much of a thing in 1978, much less a motobecane thing. I was able to secure the correct size seatpost today. It's a 26.0 for those counting. It seems all is well now, and this should be the resolution. Gotta give props to DannoXYZ, who had the most practical tips. Hard to believe the shop would steer me wrong by 0.4 mm.
Either way I made out pretty well as I was able to pick up the correct seat post and found a new bottom bracket which solves all my Swiss BB problems and for only $2!
Either way I made out pretty well as I was able to pick up the correct seat post and found a new bottom bracket which solves all my Swiss BB problems and for only $2!





