This is probably a stupid question, but what the heck. I need a new headset, but the shock I have does not have a steerer tube long enough for a threadless headset.Because I cuurently have quill. My question is, can I use a threadless headset, and put a threadless adapter in to make up for the short steerer tube?

You can do this. First get a threadless headset. Then short of replacing the fork, replace the steer tube (marzocchi), or the steer tube and crown (Rock Shox, Manitou). Then get a stem.

Hunter is right, but the steerer tubes/crowns tend to be a bit expensive: $75 - 100 if I remeber correctly. If so, another option is to replace the fork with a new entry level model. You'll benefit from new technology that has trickled down. Now's the time dealers are getting rid of the 2001 models for cheap. Nashbar has the Rock Shox Judy TT for $119.95 and the 2001 Answer Manitou Magnum for $129.95 to name a couple.

Yeah I notice Nashbar had some good deals.I'll probably go with that.

Just save some bucks for donuts, fubar. The best headset in the world won't work without donut power.

Stay away from the Judy TT. It is a low/old tech fork hiding in judy lowers. For like $50 more you will be able to find something with a real damper that will feel 200% better.

Spic-Mic,
I have read several places that the TT has crappy dampening and feels like a pogo stick.Bikesmart has a Marzocchi Z.4 for 249 that I was considering.

Go here to find the best mail order prices on forks and everything else.

Fubar,
i have reccomended Angelo at Phat Tire several times here. Check this out.
https://phattire.com/forks1.html
I at one time got a Judy XC crown steer from him for $35 and a Marzocchi steer for $30. He has some good deals on forks as you will see.

Thanks guys.
Hunter, I was looking at phat tire and he has steerers that fit '92-1997 mag forks. I think I have a mag fork. My fork says,"magnesium" at the bottom, so I am thinking that maybe Mag stands for Magnesium. Am I right? And alos it says the steerer tube is threaded. Is there a difference in a threaded steer tube and a threadless?

Yes you are correct. It should also have a number on it somewhere, like 10, or 21. If it has adjuster knobs on it, it is probably a Mag 21.
The difference between threaded and threadless is simple. One has threads to screw the top cap on it, and the threadless uses steer tube compression , to sinch the headset down. Threadless headsets are lighter in weight, and come loose a whole lot less than threaded systems. Especially in an off road app.Part availabilty for the Mag series forks is becoming scarce. If you want to keep it, get a rebuild kit, and a pump. Third Hand Loose Screws has some. If not then either sell it or keep it as a spare, and get a Marzocchi!

Depends how much money you have to burn. If the forks and stem are OK, then use a quality threaded headset. Stronglight make some good ones using needle bearings, which are cheaper and better than most "trick" headsets. You do need to know your "stack height". A Stronglight X19 is 0-ring sealed and less than $40.

Threadless ones are on balance, better, once you know your riding position, and they can be tightened with a simple allen key.

Trying to fit a threadless stem to a threaded steerer is a waste of time and money.
Changing systems is expensive, you need a new steerer tube and/or fork, stem, headset.

MichealW,
I can still get a threaded headset for a MTB? I thought those weren't made anymore.

I just found a Chris King threaded, they want 109 for it!!!! for a few bucks more I can get a new fork. Darn, but I guess its cheaper in the long run. Because if I get a new fork I will have to get a new headset,and a new stem.

Where do I measure the stack height from? This is my first time dealing with headsets, so bear with me.Nashbar has a threaded XTR headset with a 34.stack height, but what does that mean? Is it from the bottom of the head tube to the top?

Here's info for determining stack height. https://www.sheldonbrown.com/gloss_st-z.html#stackheight

MichailW is right, it really isn't worth converting to threadless (unless you had someone who could donate most of the parts).

BTW, King headsets are worth every penny, they are guaranteed for 10 years and can take much abuse without requiring maintenance. The first time I bought one, I couldn't believe I spent that much on a headset. I had it on my MTB for 6 years without needing maintenance. I sold it with the frame because it was a 1" headset. I wouldn't invest in King threaded though, because your next bike will have a threadless headset and you won't be able to use it.

I may go with the King. I sure hate parts that don't work well. 109 bucks is a little much though, but I don't see myself replacing my MT Tam ever.

A professed bike junkie such as yourself! Blasphemy, you should be coveting and saving for your next bike already!

I'll be getting a new bike for sure!!!! Replace was a bad choice of word. I don't think I'll ever get rid of my MT Tam, but I'll get a new bike.

Chris King are surely the finest headsets money can buy, but Stronglight are the best value. They are standard equipment on round the world touring bikes, they come in MTB sizes, and you can replace bits as they wear out (ie the steel races separate from the Al housing )
If my stack height was big enough, its what I would use, but Im limited to short-stack steel models on my commuter bike (boo hoo)

Thanks MichealW!!! Nashbar has some Stronglight headsets that are threaded.

The stack height is the vertical space taken up by the headset. With a conventional threaded fork, the steerer tube is longer than the head tube by some amount. If a headset is chosen with a stack height greater than this difference, there may not be enough of the steerer free above the upper bearing race for the keyed washer and lock nut to be installed. In the case of threadless headsets, the stack height also includes the height of the part of the handlebar stem that clamps to the steerer. ---Taken from SheldonBrown.com

One last question,I just want to verify.To get the stack height, I measure from the bottom of my headset,to the top.. right? Or just the head tube hieght? I think my first assumption is right. And looking at the article closer,it seems like I need to measure the stack height, and the steer tube,and then subtract the measurments, and my result is the stack height.