Ive got a full 105 setup and noticed the other day that my front tire was getting a little rubbing from the brake even when not applying the brake. I was looking at the brake to see if I could adjust it somehow and I came across a little swtich lever thing. When I moved it, it widened or narrowed the brakes depending on which way I moved it. Is it supposed to do this? I didnt somehow loosen the brake to where it might fall off somehow right? Also, the front tire, havent checked the back, seems to not be running quite straight. Does that mean the tire is old and worn out? I bought this bike used from a guy who only raced it one season, the bike is a 2001. Or does it mean I need to get my wheels trued? If so, how do I do that? Im a newbie so that probably means a trip to the lbs! Thanks

get the LBS to check that the wheel is true.

That lil lever thing is to widen thewidth between your pads so you can get the wheel on and off easily. Try twisting the whole brake setup to make it centre to the wheel and not rub.

Brendon

There is a small screw for fine centering adjustment. Have a look at the instructions which came with the bike, or check out the Shimano website.

The brake release lever is to enable you to remove and infalted tyre. The brakes should be closed during normal use, and should be setup for clearance in the closed position.

Before you do ANYTHING to center the brake caliper, try this:

1. Stand your bike up on its own wheels.
2. Reach down and release and immediately retighten the quick releaase lever on your hub.
3. Lift and spin the front wheel to see if the brake is still dragging.

90% of the time, this will solve the problem you described. People remove the front wheel to transport the bike, then don't replace it squarly in the fork dropouts.

I would insert a step between #2 and #3. Grab the front brake and while holding it in retighten the quick release. I've found that this method of centering the front wheel works quite well.

Zack

... 'my front tire was getting a little rubbing from the brake even when not applying the brake.'

If this is happening on one side only, either the wheel is not centered, or the brake caliper isn't. (pretty obvious) However, you say that the brake is rubbing on the TIRE. This would indicate that the brake block need to be adjusted radially (distance from the hub) as well.

You've been given a couple of good points on making sure your wheel is centered, that is, the axle is sitting squarely in the dropouts. With the axle squarely in the dropouts the rim and tire SHOULD BE in the center of the forks. If it in NOT, the wheel is out of dish. Take bike to LBS.

If the wheel centers nicely in the forks, look at the wheel from the front of the bike and determine that the two brake blocks are horizontally the same, and that they are opposite the rim, so that when you apply the brake the blocks make contact with the rim, not the tire.

Once all of that is okay, then you adjust your calipers so that the blocks are equidistant from the rim surface. You can make minor adjustments with Shimano brakes by locating a small screw on the top surface the caliper, on the side opposite from the side with the cable attachment. Using this screw will skewer the calipers one side to the other, but also slightly increases/decreases the overall span of the calipers. If this fine tuning won't get the calipers centered, then you must loosen the bolt holding the calipers to the fork and re-center the unit by hand then retighten the unit. (some calipers have a flat-sided adjustment flat just between the caliper and the fork that you could put a cone-wrench on to center the calipers, but for some reason most Shimano brakes don't have this feature)

There is a bit more to this but it gets to long-winded. If any of this confuses you too much, get friendly with your LBS, most of them are very decent folks and won't mind you looking over their shoulder on minor adjustments like this. Pretty soon, you'll be able to do all this stuff.

Sometimes, the tire is not seated on the rim properly, or the bead has a deformity, making it look like your wheel is out of true. Sight your rim along a brake pad to check for errors. If your wheel is true, try re-mounting the tire, or have your LBS look at it.

I thought that little flip switch thingy was for opening up the brakes before a sprint towards the finish kinda deal.

I know Campy has this feature right on their shifter/brake units as well as the brakes themselves. Campy has a little button so the rider doesn't have to reach for the calipers when cruising along at 35 mph. I was informed that during a sprint road tires can flex quite a bit whilst hammering away. This results in unwanted pad rub on the rim. Must be absolutely effecient during a road race now.

Although the idea of them being used for tire removal also makes plenty of sence.

I think someones been pulling your tit mate !

I don't think so. It was one of the local dudes at my LBS who couriered (sp?) for almost ten years and raced on top of that who told me about the feature. The owner who also raced for several years mentioned the same thing.

It only made more sense to me as well with the Campy set-up because the buttons or switches are located in the brake/shifter lever mech. As I mentioned before. This was to make it more convienent for the rider to flip open the brakes when mashing out during a sprint to avoid the wheel flexing and rubbing the pads.

Besides I'm not sure what road tires most people are running but so far all the ones I've seen, and removed I've never had to open the calipers. The tires are just too darned skinny to even bother.

Stiffy, Stiffy, Stiffy...

Grey Wolf is right. They're laughing behind your back at your bike shop!

Well alright dammit you guys win!!

It still makes sense to me so there!!

A lot of the older racers around here, including Dave LeDuc (might have spelled that wrong, every body just calls him "The Old Man") , run with the brake release about half open.
It is also handy if you warp your wheel so you can get in with out the brake rubbing.

Sorry Stiffee. I didnt mean to diss . you brother ,some racers may actualy use that as a "trick of the trade " so to speak , especialy if their brake blox are finely adjusted to the rims ??? I know I dont have to use them to replace my wheels now im on 700x23c, s but when I used 25c I had to use them , people who run on 28c or cyclo X tyres would have to use them for sure ?. As mentioned before very handy if you snap a spoke out in the wop **** , with a bit of spoke adjustment & open the caliper QR you can carry on with your ride ok , just remember on the down grades when its brake time

S'okay. I'll get over it (sniff, sniff)

Good, Im pleased youve come to terms with your own flaws & faults ,it makes future humiliation a lot easier to accept

greywolf - don't know about NZ, but here in the USofA we aren't supposed to use "wop" or "****". It is considered an ethnic slur on our fine brethern of Italian descent. And they still make wonderful bicycles and components back in the old country. Especially Campy and Scapin.

They,re pretty keen on the PC stuff here too, wop **** here means the back of beyond , out in the bush, when its cold & we say theres a nip in the air ,we`re not refering to the Pearl Harbour incident, or rubbishing Shimano,s exelent (some of it anyway) bike bits