canti to V brakes on older MTB
01-14-07, 03:38 PM
#26
Death fork? Naaaah!!
Originally Posted by Sheldon Brown
The 287V has more internal cable friction than better quality "aero" levers such as Campagnolo, Shimano and Tektro/Cane Creek.
This can be helped by unconventional cable routing, as I did on my Thorn Raven, where I deliberately did not run the cables under the tape. If you go under the tape, there's a nasty bend as the cable exits the internal noodle.
The 287V pulls more cable than any other drop-bar lever, just barely enough to be acceptable for "V-type" brakes.
The 287V moves the cable up as far as is possible. Moving the pivot down would cause the lever to be difficult/impossible to operate from the hoods.
Sheldon "Not As Easy As You Might Imagine" Brown
This can be helped by unconventional cable routing, as I did on my Thorn Raven, where I deliberately did not run the cables under the tape. If you go under the tape, there's a nasty bend as the cable exits the internal noodle.
The 287V pulls more cable than any other drop-bar lever, just barely enough to be acceptable for "V-type" brakes.
The 287V moves the cable up as far as is possible. Moving the pivot down would cause the lever to be difficult/impossible to operate from the hoods.
Sheldon "Not As Easy As You Might Imagine" Brown
Code:
+---------------------------------------+ | Whatever became of eternal truth? | +---------------------------------------+
1) Don't use the special noodle. Route the housing into the rear of the lever like any other areo lever.
2) Use the Tektro 916/925 mini-v brakes. These require less cable pull than the full-size V brakes.
FWIW, this is one of the few bikes I've ridden where I'm in the hoods a lot and don't find them uncomfortable. I do have small hands, mind you.
Top
(forgive my edits, Sheldon).
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01-14-07, 03:41 PM
#27
Videre non videri
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Originally Posted by Sheldon Brown
This can be helped by unconventional cable routing, as I did on my Thorn Raven, where I deliberately did not run the cables under the tape. If you go under the tape, there's a nasty bend as the cable exits the internal noodle.
Here's what it looks like. It's not pretty, but it's utility!
Originally Posted by Sheldon Brown
The 287V pulls more cable than any other drop-bar lever, just barely enough to be acceptable for "V-type" brakes.
Originally Posted by Sheldon Brown
It's not that the manufacturers are "stupid." It is not so easy to make a long-pull lever for drop bars.
First of all, standard "V-type" brake levers, like other levers made for straight bars, bend away from the handlebar to provide good clearance. Levers for drop bars need to bend toward the bars or you wouldn't be able to reach the bottom of the lever with your fingers from the drop position.
First of all, standard "V-type" brake levers, like other levers made for straight bars, bend away from the handlebar to provide good clearance. Levers for drop bars need to bend toward the bars or you wouldn't be able to reach the bottom of the lever with your fingers from the drop position.
Originally Posted by Sheldon Brown
Levers for drop bars need to be operable from the hoods as well as the drops, but "V type" brakes require a long pull lever.
The 287V moves the cable up as far as is possible. Moving the pivot down would cause the lever to be difficult/impossible to operate from the hoods.
The 287V moves the cable up as far as is possible. Moving the pivot down would cause the lever to be difficult/impossible to operate from the hoods.
