Bar end cable routing??
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 57
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Bar end cable routing??
I'm finishing up my first touring bike build and have questions about how to route the shifter cable housing. Seems that running the cable out of the bar tape at the lower bend of the drop bars is traditional but what other options are there? I like the idea of running the cable housing all the way up the bars for the clean "Campy" look but am concerned about cable friction. Any thoughts out there on this??
Thanks,
John
Thanks,
John
#2
hello
I run my bar end shifter cables 'ergo style'. Shifting is just as smooth and I like the setup. You will find that the stock cut-to-length SIS cables usually supplied with bar end shifters will be too short to run the length of the bars to the top, therefore you need to pick up longer SIS cable for this routing.
#3
Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Central California
Posts: 43
Bikes: Surly Pacer road bike, Santa Cruz Tallboy 29, Trek Fuel EX 8 29, Surly Karate Monkey monster cross, 1985 Trek 500 650b conversion, 80s-era Schwinn World Sport, Schwinn Traveler converted to fixed gear, Raleigh Grand Prix single speed, 70s-era Lotus "
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times
in
1 Post
Originally Posted by The Fixer
I run my bar end shifter cables 'ergo style'. Shifting is just as smooth and I like the setup. You will find that the stock cut-to-length SIS cables usually supplied with bar end shifters will be too short to run the length of the bars to the top, therefore you need to pick up longer SIS cable for this routing.
Dave
#4
Death fork? Naaaah!!
Both my barcon set-ups (one friction, one index) route the cables in this fashion with no problems.
Top
Top
__________________
You know it's going to be a good day when the stem and seatpost come right out.
(looking for a picture and not seeing it? Thank the Photobucket fiasco.PM me and I'll link it up.)
You know it's going to be a good day when the stem and seatpost come right out.
(looking for a picture and not seeing it? Thank the Photobucket fiasco.PM me and I'll link it up.)
#5
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 57
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Thanks Fixer! That's exactly what I wanted to hear/see. I always thought it looked silly and unwieldly to run the housing out of the drop bend. Cable housing length shouldn't be a problem as I have about 20ft of bulk housing..........
John
John
#6
hello
Originally Posted by john_iverson
Cable housing length shouldn't be a problem as I have about 20ft of bulk housing..........
John
John
#7
Year-round cyclist
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Montréal (Québec)
Posts: 3,023
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times
in
2 Posts
Very important point. I would even say that they sometimes sell 2650 mm "tandem" cable as well as 3000 mm tandem cable. Well, I need something like 2900 mm.
P.S. No shifting problems with my setup, which is not as clean as "The Fixer's" (I have a second lower stem for my handlebar bag). But if you want a few views from the cockpit, here they are.
P.S. No shifting problems with my setup, which is not as clean as "The Fixer's" (I have a second lower stem for my handlebar bag). But if you want a few views from the cockpit, here they are.
#8
Klaatu barada nikto
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Southern NH
Posts: 1,453
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
Originally Posted by john_iverson
Thanks Fixer! That's exactly what I wanted to hear/see. I always thought it looked silly and unwieldly to run the housing out of the drop bend. Cable housing length shouldn't be a problem as I have about 20ft of bulk housing..........
John
John
The prime - and worst - example of this principle can be seen on any bike with a rear derailleur. The final loop that routes the shifter cable to the RD is almost always the worst case bend on the bike. This short bit of cable housing requires regular care to maintain optimal shifting and it tends to get easily gunked up. Fortunately, it's usually easy to unseat it from the chain stay cable guide (if the guide is slotted) and lube that part of the cable with some light lube.
Any time you route a cable (brake or shift), the two prime objectives are to keep the number of bends to a minimum and keep the bend radii as large as you can. Cyclists have been routing bar end shifter cables out of the drop bend for a very long time for good reason.
#9
just keep riding
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Milledgeville, Georgia
Posts: 13,560
Bikes: 2018 Black Mountain Cycles MCD,2017 Advocate Cycles Seldom Seen Drop Bar, 2017 Niner Jet 9 Alloy, 2015 Zukas custom road, 2003 KHS Milano Tandem, 1986 Nishiki Cadence rigid MTB, 1980ish Fuji S-12S
Mentioned: 15 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 173 Post(s)
Liked 33 Times
in
22 Posts
#10
Year-round cyclist
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Montréal (Québec)
Posts: 3,023
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times
in
2 Posts
While I agree with Cascade 168 in principle, I think both The Fixer, Top506 and myself are saying that it works fine. In my case, both my single and tandem are used in indexed mode (rear, obviously), and both shift crisply up and down. Well, maybe shifts take 0,5 s more when it's -15°C. I ride year round and while I like a well-functioning bike, I am definitely NOT the guy who cleans and degunks a drive train frequently. With two young children at home, I have other things to do!
But it is true that the longer the routing, the more careful one needs to be with cable routing. Make sure the bends are good and that you don't kink the housing when the wheel flops. And if your down tube geometry allows you to cross the cables as shown on BluesDawg bike, do so, because it makes for larger curves and decreases cable resistance. In all cases, I have found that indeed the rearmost curve – from chain stay to derailleur is the most critical one. With compressionless housing (which is very rigid), I find I get the best results if I shape it before I put it in place.
But it is true that the longer the routing, the more careful one needs to be with cable routing. Make sure the bends are good and that you don't kink the housing when the wheel flops. And if your down tube geometry allows you to cross the cables as shown on BluesDawg bike, do so, because it makes for larger curves and decreases cable resistance. In all cases, I have found that indeed the rearmost curve – from chain stay to derailleur is the most critical one. With compressionless housing (which is very rigid), I find I get the best results if I shape it before I put it in place.
#11
hello
Originally Posted by Michel Gagnon
While I agree with Cascade 168 in principle, I think both The Fixer, Top506 and myself are saying that it works fine.
#12
Decrepit Member
Mine is sort of a compromise between the standard lowest friction Cascade 168 routing and carrying the housings in the bar tape all the way to the stem like The Fixer and Top506. Frankly, I was afraid to try routing the housings in the bar tape all the way to the stem.
Shifting is flawless.
Shifting is flawless.
#13
Klaatu barada nikto
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Southern NH
Posts: 1,453
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
To all -
I did not say it would not work. It will just not work as smoothly as the standard routing will. I am just saying what the accepted standard in the business is. If you were to go into a shop and have barcons installed and not state specifically how you wanted the bar wrap and cable routing, you would almost certainly get what I have described.
With all of the mechanical problems and limitations associated with bicycles, the goal is - in most cases - to minimize these problems. The cable routing basics I discussed earlier adhere to this philosophy. Just like a weight weenie trying to shave 15gm off a bike, every little bit helps. You don't see many cases where people want to reduce the performance of their bicycle.
I did not say it would not work. It will just not work as smoothly as the standard routing will. I am just saying what the accepted standard in the business is. If you were to go into a shop and have barcons installed and not state specifically how you wanted the bar wrap and cable routing, you would almost certainly get what I have described.
With all of the mechanical problems and limitations associated with bicycles, the goal is - in most cases - to minimize these problems. The cable routing basics I discussed earlier adhere to this philosophy. Just like a weight weenie trying to shave 15gm off a bike, every little bit helps. You don't see many cases where people want to reduce the performance of their bicycle.
#14
Klaatu barada nikto
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Southern NH
Posts: 1,453
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
Originally Posted by The Fixer
True. In fact, the cable routing is almost identical to Campy Ergos, ...
#15
Klaatu barada nikto
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Southern NH
Posts: 1,453
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
Originally Posted by Scooper
Mine is sort of a compromise between the standard lowest friction Cascade 168 routing and carrying the housings in the bar tape all the way to the stem like The Fixer and Top506. Frankly, I was afraid to try routing the housings in the bar tape all the way to the stem.
Shifting is flawless.
Shifting is flawless.
I've never seen it done like that, but it is done in a most elegant fashion.
I don't often comment on bikes shown here, but your Paramount is really beautiful. It's really worthy of a vintage bike show. I hope you get out and ride it sometimes. Really nice job ;-)))
#16
59'er
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Alexandria, IN
Posts: 3,307
Bikes: LeMond Maillot Jaune, Vintage Trek 520 (1985), 1976 Schwinn Voyageur 2, Miyata 1000 (1985)
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 7 Times
in
3 Posts
I went traditional. I guess I didn't think you could run the cables under the bar tape completely. Actually, it doesn't cause a problem like this.
__________________
#17
Dropped
Assuming one uses the traditional routing, does the NOS stainless spiral housing provide any advantage? Or does modern, plastic lined housing provide superior performance with less maintenance?
#18
Muscle bike design spec
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Sterling VA
Posts: 3,688
Bikes: 70 Atala Record Proffesional, 00 Lemond, 08 Kestrel Evoke, 96 Colnago Master Olympic, 01 Colnago Ovalmaster, 76 Raleigh Gran Sport, 03 Fuji World, 86 Paramount, 90 Miyata CF, 09 Ritchey Breakaway CX, Bianchi Trofeo, 12 OutRiderUSA HyperLite
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 3 Times
in
3 Posts
Should my ebay-bought barcons ever arrive - I have a question about finishing the bar tape. How do I keep the tape in place at the bar ends and bar tops? Do you use some sort of shrink tubing or electrical tape at the barcon end to keep it sharp? How about some close-ups of the bar ends?
Without barcons I've started on the tops and used a little trick that keeps it clean without electrical tape, then overlapped the bar tape at the bar end. The plugs hold the ends in.
Without barcons I've started on the tops and used a little trick that keeps it clean without electrical tape, then overlapped the bar tape at the bar end. The plugs hold the ends in.
__________________
Korval is Ships
See my Hyperlite 411 it's the photo model on OutRiderUSA web page
See my Hyperlite 411 it's the photo model on OutRiderUSA web page
#19
Paste Taster
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 4,392
Bikes: , Jury Bike, Moto Outcast 29, Spicer standard track frame and spicer custom steel sprint frame.
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
you should be able to do it this way just wrap the cable housing then instal the shifter then thread the cable
I am confused by this barcon is it a generic term because I have suntour gt-luxe bar end shifters on my old tourer and from what I understand they were copied by shimano later on
I am confused by this barcon is it a generic term because I have suntour gt-luxe bar end shifters on my old tourer and from what I understand they were copied by shimano later on
#20
Death fork? Naaaah!!
Originally Posted by Retem
I am confused by this barcon is it a generic term because I have suntour gt-luxe bar end shifters on my old tourer and from what I understand they were copied by shimano later on
FWIW, Campy, Smiplex, and Universial made them before Sun Tour.
Top
__________________
You know it's going to be a good day when the stem and seatpost come right out.
(looking for a picture and not seeing it? Thank the Photobucket fiasco.PM me and I'll link it up.)
You know it's going to be a good day when the stem and seatpost come right out.
(looking for a picture and not seeing it? Thank the Photobucket fiasco.PM me and I'll link it up.)