I'm gearing up (no pun intended) for a springtime build and need to figure out what components are compatable.
I picked up a set of Ultegra brifters from a coworker who had upgraded his componentry and I'm intending to incorporate them into a build up a Schwinn Supersport (late 80s vintage) frame that I picked up off of Ebay last year. The package came complete with derailiiers, brake calipers and brifters.

My question is what crank and rear cluster do I need to go with to make it all work. Do I need to buy Ultegra or could I go with a more mundane Nashbar crank set up?

Thanks

Hey JSChance,
In terms of what crank you need, virtually any chainset (crank) will be OK, Campag, Shimano, etc, just work out which gearing ratios you need (number of teeth on chainwheels) and how many of them you want - you don't need to spring for Ultegra. Just remember though - bottom bracket axel length is very important when choosing a chainset. Check Sheldon brown's chainline information/axle-length data. Also, Shimano use a different profile of square taper from Campag and some others...

As far as a rear cluster goes, you need to know what number of index stops (gears) there are on your rear brifter. If its' a nine speed, you need a nine-speed cassette, etc. Also, there's the question of whether your frame will take a rear hub with the requisite modern cassette/freehub. The standard rear drop-out spacing has gone up now to 130mm, yours is probably 126mm or possibly narrower - this can be 'fixed' though

Whether your rear brifter will index properly with the existing derailleur is another question - not sure about compatibility between 5-6 speed RDs and 9-10spd brifters. A nice nearly new Shimano RD can be yours for not a lot, though.

Feed us some more information on RD type (model # if you got it), and # gears/clicks on your brifter. Remember that an 8 speed will have 7 clicks (i.e. a 2 speed would only need one click). The guys and gals in this forum can fix you up.

You also should measure the rear spacing of the frame. 8/9/10 speed hubs require 130mm. You may have to respace the rear to accommodate the appropriate hub. This shouldn't be a gig deal assuming your frame is steel.

As for the crank, the first obvious step is to determine if you need a double or triple. I would not go super cheap on the crank, as nice 9 speed Shimano cranks are going for good prices these days. Nashbar has the 105 double for $60. Make sure you order a BB appropriate to the crank and your frame.

OK, here's some more details for those that ask.

I get 8 clicks on the right hand brifter, so I'm assuming it can handle a 9 speed cassette. I'm building this into a pure road bike, so my intentions are to stick with a double on the front.

The package also came with front (FD-6500)and rear (RD-6500)derailleurs, and a set of BR-6500 brake callipers.

It does appear that the front derailler is intended for a braze on mount and the frame has a clamp on mount, so I might have a bit of a problem there.

The frame I'm building on is a Schwinn Supersport with a headset badge stamp of 0815, which, if I'm not mistaken was the 81st frame of this type built in 1985. Correct me if I'm wrong. The frame has labels on it indicating that it's constructed of Columbus Tenex tubing.

The frame does not currently have a bottom bracket on it, and I've figured I'd buy that at the same time I purchased the crank to ensure compatibility. Unless convinced otherwise, I'll buy one for the double.

I've already taken into consideration the fact that I need to cold set the frame to accomodate the wider rear hub spacing. I've built a tensioning tool to stretch the frame out, and it's in the process of being stretched already. I used this same tool last year when I built my LeTour III into a commuter w/700c wheels.

I'm intending to set up the stem with an adaptor so I can use modern threadless type stems on it. I've got the adaptor and I'll turn it down to the correct diameter to accomodate the Schwinn 'unique' ID's.

I'll also be needing a seatpost and seat, so any hints where to get a lightweight seatpost?

Thanks for the help, hopefully I haven't lost your attention just yet.

Okay... You can use Just about any Crankset you'd like.

That said (I tend to gravitate towards crank posts...) You have a few options... You can find a blowout deal on 9 speed 105 or Ultegra cranks and Bottom bracket, Go with another compatible unit, or you can go with one of the new Shiny 2 piece units.

I mention that because the new 2 piece setup has trickled all the way down to Tiagra 9spd, It's a VERY affordable crankset and dang nice for the price, and will be available in Compact or Double.

I have switched over to 2 piece for all of my bikes except my beaters, primarily for the ease of servicing and the stiffness compared to other cranks (I'm a hefty guy.)

That said, you shouldn't have a hard time finding a good deal on a crankset. since everyone is switching to 2 piece, often not even knowing WHY they are doing so you can get lots of deals on the older stuff... and it'll probably do you well for your project.

The 6500 series is compatible with any 9 Shimano speed brifters. You will need a 9 speed crankset as the 9 speed chainrings are narrower than 8 or fewer speeds, and you will notice the difference while shifting. You were smart to wait and buy the BB with the crankset for compatibilty - do that. I've used the threaded to threadless adapters with no issues. Separate clamps to adapt your braze-on FD are available for about $10. Nashbar/ loosescrews /LBS,etc all have 'em. Used those, too. I prefer the ones that have a slot to move the FD up and down without having to move the entire clamp. Think mine came from Nashbar. Did this bike have 700c or 27" originally? If 27" you may end up having to buy a longer reach brake. A mid 80's frame should have used recessed nut brake mounting so you should be OK there. Do you know what size seatpost? If it's a 27.2, ebay is a great source because there are so many available and you can pick one up cheap. Used American Classics have a good weight/value for around $20 incl shipping. Thomson's are lighter but run more toward $50+.

I am doing something similar to the OP, thought i would piggyback my question. I am also building up a new ride, with a mix of 105/ultegra 9speed parts. Will the new RD-6600 ultegra 10 speed RD work with an otherwise 9speed setup? I am specifically worried about compatibility with a 9 speed chain, I think i read somewhere that the new 10 speed derailers are narrower through the cage. If anyone can let me know about any potential problem, it would be much appreciated.

As long as you have 9 speed shifters your RD will index 9 speed just fine. I've run a 10 speed FD on an otherwise complete 8 speed setup with no problems. I don't know about the RD cage issues, however. I can't imagine that with a sprocket thickness difference of only 0.18mm between 9 and 10 speeds that the chain and the RD cage could be that much narrower - but that's my opinion - not definitive.

Just wanted to mention a few things about cassette (Rear Cluster) compatibility before you buy.
If you have a nine speed shifter you need a nine speed cassette. And since it is a shimano system you will need to make sure the cassette spacing is shimano compatible, ie: shimano, sram-non 10 speed
Same goes if you have a 10 speed drivetrain. anything Shimano that is 8 speeds and under (5,6,7) will be cross compatible since the spacing is the same.

Yeah, I've got 9speed cassette, brifters, etc... Was just wondering about compatability issue with a 10speed RD. Sounds like it should be okay. Thanks for everyone's help.

Every old Schwinn I've owned was an easy upgrade. Your Tenax tube Supersport was probably made in Greenville Miss like my Prelude. They use a 28.6mm ft der and English threaded BB. It is a 1" fork with a 22.2mm quill stem. I've never had to spread the 126mm stays to accomadate a 130mm wheel. Just spread them enough by hand and it drops right in. My last one used a Campy 8 sp and functioned perfect.

I wouldn't use a threadless adapter. They are ugly and give no advantages over a quill. If you have to have threadless, then buy an uncut carbon fork from Nashbar. They are cheap and designed to use threadless. The results will be a lot better. Good luck on the project, sounds real nice.

Tim

How is this ugly? On the bike it looks like a threadless headset top cap - you can use spacers if desired between the stem and your threaded headset, and the advantage is that there are a lot more open-face threadless stems out there than open quills, as well as more angles to choose from.

+1 on cs1's comment on quill stems. From a purist standpoint, quill stems are prettier. In this day and age having a clean old quill stem on your bike just looks better to a lot of people.

Actually the Profile one you show does look pretty nice. The ugliness starts when you start adding quill risers and parts box leftover aheadset stems that look like 75 degree upward rise with more bolts and welds sticking out everywhere, and pivots and such. I know I've seen lots of these cobbled together contraptions out on the bike path in my area. I would think if you could arrive at the reach you need from your stem, upward rise or not, just spec that stem and put it on there. If its not readily available, keep checking ebay under the key words, "quill stem", or TTT, or ITM, or Cinelli, or Salsa, or Serotta, or Grammo Titanium, etc...

Aesthetically speaking, a nice quill stem looks better than most threadless, I'll agree to that. Have three myself. But, there are some ugly quills out there, too. My comment speaks more to comparing threadless adapters to threadless setups. That being said, there are still some [non-aesthetic] advantages to threadless stems. In my view, if you really want ugly, buy a recent DuraAce crankset.

One of the cool things about cycling and having nice bikes is that you can evolve your own signature aesthetic. You as the rider and owner of the bike, are in control. Others can belittle your equipment choices I suppose but, if your experience is anything like mine, your ultimate pleasure with this is derived from your own quiet knowledge of what you have done.
Don't mean to go all Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenence on you, but you're imagining a functional aesthetic for you bike and you are pursuing it - thats sweet!

Now to throw a curve your way, I LOVE the current Dura Ace crank. I don't have one, though I did get the slightly more industrial Ultegra 6603 triple with the integrated axle and the external bearings. I used to think I would become a Campy-phile, but as I've gotten older I watch Shimano designs with near reverence .

I have a Cinelli Alter i-beam extrusion 1" threadless stem that I'm planning on using with a Cinelli quill adapter on my NOS Cannondale R1000 that has a threaded headset. I have no idea what I'll think of it after I ride it and look at it from different angles, ect...
You're right that there are all kinds of threadless (aheadset) stems you can run with.

Personally I'm a big fan of Salsa's quill stem the regular (single bolt), or S.U.L. (twin bolt, removeable faceplate) designs. These are powdercoated black, and come in a horizontal road or several different angles of upward rise configurations. They're really strong since they're tig welded steel. I like the look on my utility road bike along with a black headset and black anodized seatpost.

Agree. Have a stem adapter on several bikes. Cheap and it works. Allows more choices with stem/hb combos. Good luck.

One thought. I have done what your talking about several times. It is fun and all but when your done you don't really save any $.

Actually, my frame has a "Made in Japan for Schwinn" sticker on it, right above the bottom bracket.

Already own the adapter and stem, and I don't think I'll mind the looks. I'm a function over form type of person anyway. I will need to replace the stem because I decided on a set of oversized bars and the stem I've got is regular sized.

Yeah, but this way I get to waste money a little bit at a time, instead of all at once. Kinda spreads the fun over a longer period of time.

Actually, I'm a big fan of steel frames and this seems to be the best route to get a lightweight, affordable steel framed road bike. Most everything else in a comparable price range will be aluminum. I know I could stroll down to the local thrift shop and have my choice of large framed road bikes complete and ready to ride for $25.00, but for some reason I don't seem to find the finds that others seem to. That, and I like the idea that I'll be rolling on a steel framed Schwinn sporting all the more recent technical advances.

I'm there with ya man. '86 Schwinn Circuit made in Greenville, Mississippi, restored frame, full Ultegra 10spd, R700 compact, in build process now. Should be a sound ride. Also straying away from the all black color that has plagued the industry in recent years. White, chrome and aluminum is where I'm at...

Unfortunately i'll have to agree with the parent post. They DO look ugly. I have one on my fixed gear and only did so because I needed an extreme drop (which only very expensive track quill stems could've provided).

There is no advantage to using this adapter under than for the above purpose. There are quill stems with detacheable face plates, and there are also some very nice looking 3TTT quill stems that "half-open". These give the same advantages as a regular (ugly) threadless stem and adapter.

None of the strength arguments apply with a stem adapter either -> the bike is still a threaded fork and headset.