jfmckenna

I was using a torque wrench to adjust the binder bolt when the hex bit just stripped out the head. I may have missed the 'click' in my torque wrench, I really don't know. If you are not familiar with the Moots Compact frame the binder bolt screws into welded on tabs in the frame so there is no collar. The mechanics at the shop have tried to drill it out to no avail. There next step is to dremel out and widen the space between the braze ons so they can cut the bolt hoping that the head will pop out and when the tension is released the male threaded end will be easily removed.

Anyway if any one has ever had to deal with this inconvienent little problem and has any suggestion I am much obliged. Thanks in advance.

Pics below are not my bike but thats the binder in question:

LóFarkas

"Dremel out and widen the space between the braze-ons" just sounds terrible to me.

If a hacksaw blade doesn't fit in there as it is, then... don't know.
Did they drill from the side opposite the head? The rotation of the bit turns the bolt the right way. You could even drill, tap, and use a tiny bolt to drive the bolt out.

robo

Just curious what type of torque wrench you were using. I've always been suspicious that the off-brand one i bought on eBay allows much higher torque than indicated before it clicks (because i've stripped several bolts while using - never stripped a bolt in my life before getting it, nor had a part come loose...)

robo

Actually, the dremel idea sounds ok, if you can slip the cutting disc in between the tabs and just slice the bolt.

greenmtn

drill out the center from the hex side and use an easy-out to remove entire allen screw

vpiuva

+1 Your LBS didn't do this???

jfmckenna

I don't think they wanted to drill out the threaded end for fear that they will destroy the threads. The tapped bolt is a good idea though.

I can't remember the name of it but I know it's supposed to be a good one. I calibrated it just last week against a brand new Sears Craftsman wrench.


They tried drilling it out and it didn't work.

Thanks all for your replies.

vpiuva

If they tried drilling and easy-outing, what is left of the screw? Can you supply pics both sides of your bike?

jfmckenna

I got the bike back today and they did a great job. There was not a whole lot left to the screw. He tried the drill method again and said that once it got to the weak point it snapped with an aweful noise that turned the heads of the whole shop. The drill bit continued to actually unscrew the bolt and everything just popped out.

BTW robo the torque wrench I have is a CDI (Consolidated Devices Inc.) It's probably about 20 years old now but is suposed to be a good one.

vpiuva

Congrats, that's the best news you could have delivered.

jfmckenna

Thanks vpiuva yes indeed. Tomorrow mostly sunny 82 degrees

mlts22 

I'm glad to hear it went well. Get one of these:

https://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...temnumber=2696

Should keep this from happening again.

tellyho

Now, come on. You can't seriously accuse the Harbor Freight torque wrench of being a "quality" tool. Their tools are like long-term disposable. I'm on my second drill and I love it, but I wouldn't call it quality.