seatpost clamp to hold threadless steerer?
#1
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seatpost clamp to hold threadless steerer?
Is it possible to set up a 1" threadless fork this way: a 1" threadless headset and then a 25.4 mm seatpost clamp above that where the threadless stem ordinarily would be to hold the steerer in place; then leave out the star-nut and insert a quill stem into the top of the steerer? The steerer in question is long enough, and does have a 22.2 mm inner diameter, so the quill would fit.
The main issue would be whether the seatpost clamp would be enough to hold the fork in place. I'd rather not learn that the hard way!
Another issue would be how to get the seatpost clamp tight against the headset without a star-nut to pre-load it, but maybe there's a way to do it?
Has anybody seen this done, or have an opinion? Feel free to tell me it's a horrible idea. (I know simply using a threadless stem is easier, but the steerer is just a wee bit too short for that). I'm grateful for any insights.
Thanks!
The main issue would be whether the seatpost clamp would be enough to hold the fork in place. I'd rather not learn that the hard way!
Another issue would be how to get the seatpost clamp tight against the headset without a star-nut to pre-load it, but maybe there's a way to do it?
Has anybody seen this done, or have an opinion? Feel free to tell me it's a horrible idea. (I know simply using a threadless stem is easier, but the steerer is just a wee bit too short for that). I'm grateful for any insights.
Thanks!
#3
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Bikes: Cannondale R500, Specialized Hardrock
I have seen this done before, although the clamp was in place of a whole bunch of spacers, so that the stem could be moved up and down quickly and without adjusting the headset. I don't know how it turned out.
You would, in fact, have trouble tensioning the headset.. I'm sure there could be some workaround, but keeping the star-nut would be a lot easier.
You would, in fact, have trouble tensioning the headset.. I'm sure there could be some workaround, but keeping the star-nut would be a lot easier.
#4
Keep on climbing

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Originally Posted by Boss Moniker
I have seen this done before, although the clamp was in place of a whole bunch of spacers, so that the stem could be moved up and down quickly and without adjusting the headset. I don't know how it turned out.
You would, in fact, have trouble tensioning the headset.. I'm sure there could be some workaround, but keeping the star-nut would be a lot easier.
You would, in fact, have trouble tensioning the headset.. I'm sure there could be some workaround, but keeping the star-nut would be a lot easier.
#6
Originally Posted by Boss Moniker
I have seen this done before, although the clamp was in place of a whole bunch of spacers, so that the stem could be moved up and down quickly and without adjusting the headset. I don't know how it turned out.
#7
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Bikes: '96 Litespeed Catalyst, '05 Litespeed Firenze, '06 Litespeed Tuscany, '20 Surly Midnight Special, All are 3x10. It is hilly around here!
I believe there is a locking collar intended for use with travel bikes so the stem/bars could be removed for packing without having the fork drop out. It is designed for the job and should be better than a seatpost collar.
The initial headset adjustment could be made using an expansion plug to develop the preload and then removed afterward to allow the quill to be inserted.
The initial headset adjustment could be made using an expansion plug to develop the preload and then removed afterward to allow the quill to be inserted.
#8
Originally Posted by HillRider
I believe there is a locking collar intended for use with travel bikes so the stem/bars could be removed for packing without having the fork drop out. It is designed for the job and should be better than a seatpost collar.
The initial headset adjustment could be made using an expansion plug to develop the preload and then removed afterward to allow the quill to be inserted.
The initial headset adjustment could be made using an expansion plug to develop the preload and then removed afterward to allow the quill to be inserted.
#9
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thanks
Originally Posted by cedricbosch
Correct
Thanks for the feedback everyone. I may try the seatpost clamp (pre-loading with the expanding nut) and then ride around very slowly for a little while to see if it begins to loosen. Sheldon Brown's description says he doesn't recommend trying it with 1" steerers, but I'm not sure why. Maybe he meant it's not a good idea to have a 1" steerer sticking up as far as the one in his picture b/c it's not as stiff as a 1 1/8".
If it doesn't work I'll just bite the bullet and spend money getting the thing threaded or buying another fork (I know, I know - threading threadless forks is a risky business, but I've seen this model fork threaded and ridden the snot out of with no trouble, I've talked to the manufacturer, and I live near Harris Cyclery in Boston, who can do a competent job). If the work-around is successful, I'll report.
#10
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Hi
This is an interesting thread and I have been asking myself the same question. I have some bikes which I’d like to convert to quill-stem, but buying new threaded forks is quite pricey and limited range these days. Interesting piece on Sheridan’s site about this, and I also wondered why he doesn’t recommend it for 1” steerers. As you say, maybe he’s concerned about a long length of 1” tube above the clamp. But for a quill conversion the steerer would be cut off at a low level anyway. I’m tempted to try it on a 1”. Once the clamp is tightened, I can’t see what the safety risk could be myself. Has anyone done such a conversion? I wonder if there is a purpose made clamp or are we limited to seat post clamps?
#11
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Bikes: 1986 Cannondale SR400 (Flat bar commuter), 1988 Cannondale Criterium XTR, 1992 Serotta T-Max, 1995 Trek 970
This is an interesting thread and I have been asking myself the same question. I have some bikes which I’d like to convert to quill-stem, but buying new threaded forks is quite pricey and limited range these days. Interesting piece on Sheridan’s site about this, and I also wondered why he doesn’t recommend it for 1” steerers. As you say, maybe he’s concerned about a long length of 1” tube above the clamp. But for a quill conversion the steerer would be cut off at a low level anyway. I’m tempted to try it on a 1”. Once the clamp is tightened, I can’t see what the safety risk could be myself. Has anyone done such a conversion? I wonder if there is a purpose made clamp or are we limited to seat post clamps?
Cutting the length of the steerer might help if the quill wedge would be below the headset. However that would render the fork useless for any other use and something I wouldn't do.
An extender would probably be a good solution along with a more upward stem angle. But the stem might be a tough one to find for a 1".
John
#13
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Well if the seatpost clamp is strong enough to hold the seatpost in place with someone on it it's very like strong enough to hold the headset in place. The quill is secure in the steerer? Where can it go?
You gotta to do it and see does it work. Don't test on the bumpiest steepest hill you can find.
Will it look to goofy or not really be an improvement over a threadless stem, who knows.
You gotta to do it and see does it work. Don't test on the bumpiest steepest hill you can find.
Will it look to goofy or not really be an improvement over a threadless stem, who knows.
#14
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I would think it might be possible on a 1" steel steering tube, not aluminum. Sheldon does mention "metal" which can mean aluminum.
Cutting the length of the steerer might help if the quill wedge would be below the headset. However that would render the fork useless for any other use and something I wouldn't do.
An extender would probably be a good solution along with a more upward stem angle. But the stem might be a tough one to find for a 1".
John
Cutting the length of the steerer might help if the quill wedge would be below the headset. However that would render the fork useless for any other use and something I wouldn't do.
An extender would probably be a good solution along with a more upward stem angle. But the stem might be a tough one to find for a 1".
John







