Bottom Bracket Question (cup and cone)
#1
Thread Starter
Cries on hills
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 1,088
Likes: 0
From: Central NH
Bikes: 2007 Trek Pilot 1.2, 1969 Raleigh Sprite 5
Bottom Bracket Question (cup and cone)
My Panasonic has the older cup-and-cone setup, which is loose. Co-worker is going to bring tools into work on Monday for me to take this apart; but I'm wondering if in the meantime I can just attempt some hack job at tightening it up just a hair, so I can get a pinch of ride time in? The bike has seen very little use, so I don't think it's from wear--and if it is worn out, I doubt I'll do any more damage.
I don't know if I can just waltz into my LBS and get this tightened, but I might ask. Maybe they could cut a new cable while they are at it (something else that needs work).
I did find this:
https://sheldonbrown.com/tooltips/bbcups.html
which indicates that I ought to only mess with the fixed side if I'm replacing it. It seems to me that if one side can be ignored, that I could "ignore" the other and just tighten it? At least until it starts making crunching sounds.
I'll have to go back to reading about those toolkits; none seem to come with these parts, so maybe I'll look into buying tools piecemeal.
I don't know if I can just waltz into my LBS and get this tightened, but I might ask. Maybe they could cut a new cable while they are at it (something else that needs work).
I did find this:
https://sheldonbrown.com/tooltips/bbcups.html
which indicates that I ought to only mess with the fixed side if I'm replacing it. It seems to me that if one side can be ignored, that I could "ignore" the other and just tighten it? At least until it starts making crunching sounds.
I'll have to go back to reading about those toolkits; none seem to come with these parts, so maybe I'll look into buying tools piecemeal.
#2
You can try to loosen the lock ring with a pair of pipe pliers and then using something, anything that you can get into one of the little holes on the cup, tighten it just a little less then you need, because when you tighten the lockring it will tighten the cup a little more since you're not doing it the proper way with the proper tools. Any lbs can tighten for you in about 15 seconds.
I don't get what you're saying here. You don't need to touch the fixed side at all. You adjust the side with the lockring.
Originally Posted by supton
I did find this:
https://sheldonbrown.com/tooltips/bbcups.html
which indicates that I ought to only mess with the fixed side if I'm replacing it. It seems to me that if one side can be ignored, that I could "ignore" the other and just tighten it? At least until it starts making crunching sounds.
https://sheldonbrown.com/tooltips/bbcups.html
which indicates that I ought to only mess with the fixed side if I'm replacing it. It seems to me that if one side can be ignored, that I could "ignore" the other and just tighten it? At least until it starts making crunching sounds.
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Lemond Zurich, Cinelli Hobootleg Geo, ICan gravel bike, Tifosi Rostra, Specialized vado turbo
Lemond Zurich, Cinelli Hobootleg Geo, ICan gravel bike, Tifosi Rostra, Specialized vado turbo
#3
Thread Starter
Cries on hills
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 1,088
Likes: 0
From: Central NH
Bikes: 2007 Trek Pilot 1.2, 1969 Raleigh Sprite 5
My coworker was advising to pull it all apart and relube. And I wasn't sure if I was going to get that advice or not--since the bike is "old".
#4
Originally Posted by supton
My coworker was advising to pull it all apart and relube. And I wasn't sure if I was going to get that advice or not--since the bike is "old".
And when you take it apart, do make sure that the fixed (drive-side) cup is tightened down all the way. If it is loose, it could cause your problem.







