Today's ride, I had a flat. Got out my Morph pump, which I have always loved. The gauge, the floor pump aspect of it's design. The design itself.
Last time I had a flat couple months ago, used that pump- thought it pumped sort of slow and ineffective. So I took it apart. Cleaned it out, checked o rings. Added very slight amount of silicone lube spray. wiped.
Used it afterwards, seemed it pumped halfway normal. Today's flat. It was useless. Delivery was a puny amount of air per stroke. Walked to a bike shop. Asked could replace o ring or something. Bike shop owner said no. Can't repair it, after explained to him, I liked it's design.
So I bought another style pump. Had a Morph once before after two - three years, same problem. Are Topeak pumps only supposed to last a couple years.? If so, Disappointing.

My oldest road morph is going on 3 years...no problems so far.

Depending on where they are mounted and what kind of weather you ride in, what kills frame and mini-pumps is water. Rain and tire spray gets into the interior and corrodes the barrel and/or rusts the ball checks.

I've had a couple of pumps refuse to work until I replaced the rusty check ball with a new one. These are usually a 3/16" bearing ball so any bike mechanic should have a few around.

Topeak provides good support for their pumps. Contact them and chances are they'll warranty the pump.

I've had mine for 3 years. Works just like the first time I used it. One thing though, I never mounted it on the frame, it's stored inside my backpack.

I've got a similar Topeak model before they called it the morph. I think it's probably the same, mine has a gauge in the flexible hose and a little foot pad. I've had it about 5 years. Last year it got a hole at the thinnest point in the tube where they cut the threads for the end piece. A tiny dab of epoxy made it good to go (after I walked home). This was probably a unique problem, you mileage may vary.

It is probably repairable. Look at another shop for a ball bearing. Really, what is weird bet it has not been used a dozen times, do not get all that many flats.

Shameless Troll Warning!

Now see, CO2 cartridges will wait patiently for years, regardless of weather, and work perfectly.

Funny and true. HOWEVER, I once had a Superflate CO2 inflator fail when the brass insert that punctures the cartridge fell out! That day the mini-pump got me home. I carry both.

I've had Topeaks since 2000. My first one is dead because I blew the top off it when I pushed the head onto the tube too far and forgot to release the handle first...D'oh! But my second to seventh one are going strong (one for each bike ).

I suspect that you may have swollen the o-rings with the silicone spray...grease works best. However the o-rings are standard size and should be easy to replace. You just need to match the size. I'm lucky in that we have a place here in Denver called Rocket Seals that sells any kind of o-ring in any size made of any material and I can run down there. You may have to look around some. Find a good hardware store or contact Topeak.

Mine works fine. I mount it under the down tube, right in the path of front wheel spray (despite a fender and mudflap) so I bought some clear heat shrinkwrap film on EBay in 4 inch size (there is a seller who sells it in ten foot lengths), sealed the pump inside the shrinkwrap, and essentially waterproofed it. If I use it, I just peel off the shrinkwrap and then replace it after the ride.

My suggestion......thoroughly cover the pump valve head with electrical tape and leave it there until you need it. It keeps the head clean, and water and moisture out. Since the tape is black it doesn't look junky.

When you need it, just tear the tape off and use the pump on the road. Replace the tape the next time you are home and tuning up the bike. I have several Morphs on my bikes. I use a floor pump around the house for pumping up before rides, but keep a morph on each bike.

Sealing the head probably won't do much. You need to seal the body if the pump is in the gunk (I mount mine under the top tube to avoid the whole problem ). To seal the body, cut a piece of old tube, slide it over the handle and the upper part of the tube. Sealed enough to keep the big chunks out.