Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Bicycle Mechanics
Reload this Page >

2 Random questions:

Search
Notices
Bicycle Mechanics Broken bottom bracket? Tacoed wheel? If you're having problems with your bicycle, or just need help fixing a flat, drop in here for the latest on bicycle mechanics & bicycle maintenance.

2 Random questions:

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 07-23-07, 12:17 PM
  #1  
Enjoying the Ride
Thread Starter
 
Bob Loblaw's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Woostah, MA
Posts: 116
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
2 Random questions:

Two random questions for you all-
1. When a seatpost is specified as a 250mm post, or 300mm, or what-have-you, is that length the *usable* length? Or total length from bottom of post to top of clamp? (Bearing in mind that XXmm must remain buried in seat tube for strength) If I had one handly, I'd just measure it, but I'm at work and would like to order a new one!

2. WARNING- this next question smacks of OCD... So please, bear with me. ;-) I'm using a clamp adapter to put my braze on FD onto a frame w/o FD bosses. I've never used one of these clamp adapters before. Do folks typically put anything in between the clamp and frame to protect the frame surface? Will the clamp destroy the paint over time? Call it OCD, but if I can protect the beautiful paint job on my frame, I'd like to.

THANKS!
Bob
Bob Loblaw is offline  
Old 07-23-07, 12:39 PM
  #2  
*
 
vpiuva's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 3,458
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times in 2 Posts
1. total length
2. no protection, and yes, you can usually see where the clamp was installed on the DT later. Was your paint air hardened or forced dry? Also, older frames usually have a DT stop to keep the clamp from slipping down the DT. Does yours have one?

edited for lack of reading comprehension

Last edited by vpiuva; 07-23-07 at 02:47 PM.
vpiuva is offline  
Old 07-23-07, 12:42 PM
  #3  
Senior Member
 
demoncyclist's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Medway, MA
Posts: 2,727

Bikes: 2011 Lynskey Sportive, 1988 Cannondale SM400

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 20 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
This is an FD clamp,not DT shifters. There will be no stop on the seat tube.
demoncyclist is offline  
Old 07-23-07, 12:43 PM
  #4  
Enjoying the Ride
Thread Starter
 
Bob Loblaw's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Woostah, MA
Posts: 116
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Thanks!
My bike does not have a stop, and it was painted by the factory (Specialized) so I have no idea how it was dried. Are factory finishes usually baked on? Would I be absurd to want to protect the finish under the clamp?
Bob Loblaw is offline  
Old 07-23-07, 12:47 PM
  #5  
cyclist/gearhead/cycli...
 
moxfyre's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: DC / Maryland suburbs
Posts: 4,166

Bikes: Homebuilt tourer/commuter, modified-beyond-recognition 1990 Trek 1100, reasonably stock 2002-ish Gary Fisher Hoo Koo E Koo

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
Originally Posted by Bob Loblaw
2. WARNING- this next question smacks of OCD... So please, bear with me. ;-) I'm using a clamp adapter to put my braze on FD onto a frame w/o FD bosses. I've never used one of these clamp adapters before. Do folks typically put anything in between the clamp and frame to protect the frame surface? Will the clamp destroy the paint over time? Call it OCD, but if I can protect the beautiful paint job on my frame, I'd like to.
I personally put a thin loop of electrical tape between the frame and the derailer, since the clamp can damage the paint slightly. I have a black frame, so it looks great, and works great too.
moxfyre is offline  
Old 07-23-07, 12:51 PM
  #6  
Enjoying the Ride
Thread Starter
 
Bob Loblaw's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Woostah, MA
Posts: 116
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by moxfyre
I personally put a thin loop of electrical tape between the frame and the derailer, since the clamp can damage the paint slightly. I have a black frame, so it looks great, and works great too.

Phew... I'm glad I'm not the only one. Thanks moxfyre! Do you experience any slippage problems with this solution?
Is there a 12 step program for people like us?
Bob Loblaw is offline  
Old 07-23-07, 01:00 PM
  #7  
cyclist/gearhead/cycli...
 
moxfyre's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: DC / Maryland suburbs
Posts: 4,166

Bikes: Homebuilt tourer/commuter, modified-beyond-recognition 1990 Trek 1100, reasonably stock 2002-ish Gary Fisher Hoo Koo E Koo

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
Originally Posted by Bob Loblaw
Phew... I'm glad I'm not the only one. Thanks moxfyre! Do you experience any slippage problems with this solution?
Is there a 12 step program for people like us?
Nope, I'm happy to report that I've had no slippage in about 2 years of this setup! I'm afraid this disease is incurable
moxfyre is offline  
Old 07-23-07, 01:11 PM
  #8  
My bike's better than me!
 
neil0502's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Northern Colorado
Posts: 2,041

Bikes: (2) Moots Vamoots, (1) Cannondale T2000 tourer, (1) Diamondback Response Comp mtb

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times in 1 Post
Originally Posted by Bob Loblaw
Is there a 12 step program for people like us?
Yeah. Buy 11 more bikes.
neil0502 is offline  
Old 07-23-07, 01:14 PM
  #9  
cyclist/gearhead/cycli...
 
moxfyre's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: DC / Maryland suburbs
Posts: 4,166

Bikes: Homebuilt tourer/commuter, modified-beyond-recognition 1990 Trek 1100, reasonably stock 2002-ish Gary Fisher Hoo Koo E Koo

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
Originally Posted by neil0502
Yeah. Buy 11 more bikes.
The disease is its own cure!
moxfyre is offline  
Old 07-23-07, 01:36 PM
  #10  
road rash/tree burn
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Chapel Hill, NC
Posts: 726
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Yeah, I've used electrical tape too. On another frame that the clamp was a little big for, I used a couple of layers of rubber padding to effectively thicken the seat tube. I wouldn't recommend that for indexed shifting, but it worked fine in that case since I was using friction-shifting barends on that build.
truckin is offline  
Old 07-23-07, 01:57 PM
  #11  
Senior Member
 
Grand Bois's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Pinole, CA, USA
Posts: 17,392
Mentioned: 24 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 443 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 27 Times in 25 Posts
Brush Plasti-Dip on the inner surface of the clamp, let it dry and then bolt it on. Dr. Deltron gave me that tip.
Grand Bois is offline  
Old 07-23-07, 02:38 PM
  #12  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 33,656

Bikes: '96 Litespeed Catalyst, '05 Litespeed Firenze, '06 Litespeed Tuscany, '20 Surly Midnight Special, All are 3x10. It is hilly around here!

Mentioned: 39 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2026 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1,096 Times in 742 Posts
Actually the impression the clamp makes in the seat tube paint is an advantage. When you remove the fd for the bike's annual overhaul, the mark lets you know exactly where to replace it. It saves lots of agrivation once you get the fd adjusted right the first time.
HillRider is offline  
Old 07-23-07, 02:49 PM
  #13  
cyclist/gearhead/cycli...
 
moxfyre's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: DC / Maryland suburbs
Posts: 4,166

Bikes: Homebuilt tourer/commuter, modified-beyond-recognition 1990 Trek 1100, reasonably stock 2002-ish Gary Fisher Hoo Koo E Koo

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
Originally Posted by HillRider
Actually the impression the clamp makes in the seat tube paint is an advantage. When you remove the fd for the bike's annual overhaul, the mark lets you know exactly where to replace it. It saves lots of agrivation once you get the fd adjusted right the first time.
Eh... I doubt it.

First of all, the damage to the paint often doesn't occur at the edges of the clamp, but somewhere in the middle, due to slight imperfections in the clamp surface. So the clamp marks are of practically no value in locating the clamp position.

And secondly, the clamp will leave permanent marks on the electrical tape as well. I don't see why those would be any worse/better for positioning.

And thirdly, I don't ever remove my FD unless it's busted. If it's really dirty I might scrub it with a toothbrush and simply green while on the bike. But perhaps that's just me.
moxfyre is offline  
Old 07-23-07, 03:06 PM
  #14  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 33,656

Bikes: '96 Litespeed Catalyst, '05 Litespeed Firenze, '06 Litespeed Tuscany, '20 Surly Midnight Special, All are 3x10. It is hilly around here!

Mentioned: 39 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2026 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1,096 Times in 742 Posts
Originally Posted by moxfyre
First of all, the damage to the paint often doesn't occur at the edges of the clamp, but somewhere in the middle, due to slight imperfections in the clamp surface. So the clamp marks are of practically no value in locating the clamp position.

And secondly, the clamp will leave permanent marks on the electrical tape as well. I don't see why those would be any worse/better for positioning.
Mine seem to leave an exact negative image of the clamp's inner surface in the paint so it's easy to position it exactly the way it came off. The problem with electrical tape is it can shift or peel so it's not as reliable an index.
Originally Posted by moxfyre
And thirdly, I don't ever remove my FD unless it's busted. If it's really dirty I might scrub it with a toothbrush and simply green while on the bike. But perhaps that's just me.
I do remove the fd to clean and relube it off the bike. However, for a braze-on fd with an adapter clamp, I usually leave the clamp in place and only remove the derailleur body.
HillRider is offline  
Old 07-23-07, 03:11 PM
  #15  
cyclist/gearhead/cycli...
 
moxfyre's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: DC / Maryland suburbs
Posts: 4,166

Bikes: Homebuilt tourer/commuter, modified-beyond-recognition 1990 Trek 1100, reasonably stock 2002-ish Gary Fisher Hoo Koo E Koo

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
Originally Posted by HillRider
Mine seem to leave an exact negative image of the clamp's inner surface in the paint so it's easy to position it exactly the way it came off. The problem with electrical tape is it can shift or peel so it's not as reliable an index.
Gotcha. The clamp I use is the $4 clamp from Nashbar (https://www.nashbar.com/profile.cfm?c...%20Accessories). It works very very well, but the inner surface has obviously not been machined to a high tolerance.

I don't think electrical tape will shift at all while it's been clamped by the derailer, though.

In any case, to each his own!
moxfyre is offline  
Old 07-24-07, 05:23 AM
  #16  
Enjoying the Ride
Thread Starter
 
Bob Loblaw's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Woostah, MA
Posts: 116
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Well thanks again all for the replies. You've answered my question!
Bob Loblaw is offline  

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.