Chain rusted after cleaning
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Chain rusted after cleaning
I cleaned my chain with mineral spirits, and some degreaser to get it shiny, then rinsed it with water. I was going to put some lube on, but figured I'd let it hang dry first so that any mineral spirits / degreaser would evaporate. I come back 24hrs later to put some lube on and there is a small amount of rust near the rollers on a good portion of the chain. What did I do wrong?
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Your drying was inadequate, and there was water left on the chain. I clean my chains with citrus de-greaser, and rinse with water, and then dry with paper towels followed by a hair-dryer; you really need to remove all the water. You could always pop it in the oven (not microwave ) for 10 mins at 200ºF.
- Wil
- Wil
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This is why you don't want water anywhere near the chain. There's probably some rust inside the rollers too. I don't know if the chain is ruined or not. In the future, clean it with Brake Klean (at your auto parts store) and a nappy towel. If you clean the chain fairly often, this is all you will need. You don't even have to take it off the bike. One pipe cleaner, bent in half, will get between the rollers. I clean mine once a week and it takes about 10 minutes. bk
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I cleaned my chain with mineral spirits, and some degreaser to get it shiny, then rinsed it with water. I was going to put some lube on, but figured I'd let it hang dry first so that any mineral spirits / degreaser would evaporate. I come back 24hrs later to put some lube on and there is a small amount of rust near the rollers on a good portion of the chain. What did I do wrong?
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This is why you don't want water anywhere near the chain. There's probably some rust inside the rollers too. I don't know if the chain is ruined or not. In the future, clean it with Brake Klean (at your auto parts store) and a nappy towel. If you clean the chain fairly often, this is all you will need. You don't even have to take it off the bike. One pipe cleaner, bent in half, will get between the rollers. I clean mine once a week and it takes about 10 minutes. bk
Last edited by dejinshathe; 10-09-07 at 06:00 PM. Reason: grrr - typos
#8
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Compressed air to dry, and lube soon after blowing the water out. Although I just soak mine in Chem tool carb cleaner. Leaves them spotless in a half hour or less. Then I blow them out, and hit with LPS-3 which a waxy dryish lube. Made for machinery, etc. Maybe a little Tri flow if I feel like it.,,,,BD
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Wd40 disperses water just fine. Then it evaporates leaving a small trace of waxy oil. You can add whatever additional lubricant you like after it has dried in a half an hour.
Content of wd40:
HYDROCARBON SOLVENT 67%
(WHITE SPIRIT)
MINERAL OIL 21%
CARBON DIOXIDE 2-3%
Content of wd40:
HYDROCARBON SOLVENT 67%
(WHITE SPIRIT)
MINERAL OIL 21%
CARBON DIOXIDE 2-3%
Last edited by EvilV; 10-10-07 at 03:10 AM.
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Just totally skip the steps after the mineral spirits (or kerosene, or similar petroleum based solvent). No need to use water or water-based degreasers after that (or ever). Get a (light) coating of lube on the chain after degreasing and you are set. Yes, we need to ride in the rain, but it is never good for the chain.
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It's not a lubricant, or a penetrating oil, or even a pain releiever, it gets water out and keeps it from corroding fine metal parts.
Kotts
#14
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I agree that you should not use water after mineral spirits or any other solvent (as opposed to cleaner).
If there was no rust previously (and you don't know that there wasn't) the amount of rust that formed in less than 24 hours is not a problem. Just lube and ride.
If there was no rust previously (and you don't know that there wasn't) the amount of rust that formed in less than 24 hours is not a problem. Just lube and ride.
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Although we have this discussion monthly, I'm of the "lube-and-a-rag" school of cleaning. Degreaser never gets anywhere near my chain. Also an old paintbrush to knock the big crap off.
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FWIW, KMC says the sure fire way to kill a chain is to use solvents on it.
We use ProLink as both cleaner and lube. 1 bottle, 1 rag, a few seconds a week....done.
ATB people use ProLink, a toothbrush, and a rag.
We use ProLink as both cleaner and lube. 1 bottle, 1 rag, a few seconds a week....done.
ATB people use ProLink, a toothbrush, and a rag.
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Just totally skip the steps after the mineral spirits (or kerosene, or similar petroleum based solvent). No need to use water or water-based degreasers after that (or ever). Get a (light) coating of lube on the chain after degreasing and you are set. Yes, we need to ride in the rain, but it is never good for the chain.
If you are going to clean your chain with a water based degreaser, evancds, the order of cleaning should be degreaser, water rinse, water displacement rinse. I wouldn't use WD-40 since it leaves a residue that really isn't that go a lubricant. I'd use either mineral spirits (not the best for water displacement), acetone (kinda highly flammable) or an alcohol...denatured alcohol (poisoned ethanol) or isopropyl alcohol aka 2-propanol. Of the 4 above choices, isopropyl alcohol would probably be best, cheapest and safest. None of them...even acetone...is a very good degreaser, however.
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Aren't all these degreasers and lubricants extremely toxic? how do you dispose of the excess lube/degreaser/stained rags/etc? I can understand the need for keeping a chain in spotless condition if you are a pro rider, but for commuting, general use? I don't know.
In my old beater I use some sewing machine oil every 1-2 years, or sooner if it gets really squeaky, and of course the chain and cassete are rusted all over, but who cares? it keeps working after a decade. Not very good looking, but working anyway.
In my old beater I use some sewing machine oil every 1-2 years, or sooner if it gets really squeaky, and of course the chain and cassete are rusted all over, but who cares? it keeps working after a decade. Not very good looking, but working anyway.
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Aren't all these degreasers and lubricants extremely toxic? how do you dispose of the excess lube/degreaser/stained rags/etc? I can understand the need for keeping a chain in spotless condition if you are a pro rider, but for commuting, general use? I don't know.
In my old beater I use some sewing machine oil every 1-2 years, or sooner if it gets really squeaky, and of course the chain and cassete are rusted all over, but who cares? it keeps working after a decade. Not very good looking, but working anyway.
In my old beater I use some sewing machine oil every 1-2 years, or sooner if it gets really squeaky, and of course the chain and cassete are rusted all over, but who cares? it keeps working after a decade. Not very good looking, but working anyway.
As for disposal, I try to use a little as possible. 2 1/4 cup aliquots (a fancy chemistry word meaning amounts) of mineral spirits...one dirty one to knock the grease of and one clean one to rinse...will do the trick. I then either evaporate it, put it in a bottle for disposal (probably the best) through my municipality or burn it (I don't recommend that one). I've never used the water based degreaser so I'm not sure what to do with it. Probably not a good idea to send it into the waste water supply however.
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Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
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Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
Stuart Black
Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
Old School…When It Wasn’t Ancient bikepacking
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
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Oh yeah, a sip of gas-laced gatorade and two sodium pills to keep you burning. The ultimate exotermic energy drink.