gosmsgo

Hi all,

Tomorrow I am going to make me a set of these. I reckon I have to make my own since I cant find any that fit 700c wheels. I think it will be fairly easy since I have disc brakes I will not have to worry about the sides of the rims.

https://store1.yimg.com/I/webmountainbike_1969_7591855

operator

Studded tires...?

gosmsgo

Too much money

I have read that tire chains work better

Here in MO its snows, melts, snows, melts etc and I dont want to change tires 15 times in one winter.

Plus I think I can make a set of chains that work better than anything on the market. The problems from what I have read come from having to keep anything from crossing the sides of the rim. I wont have that problem.

Reason number 524 why I think disc brakes are superior to the car free/lite utility cyclist.

gosmsgo

After reading about these chains and the problems associated with them I have decided to make 34 different loops of chain for my tires. That will be 17 on each wheel or one every two spokes.

Because frame clearance will be a problem I will use enough chain to cover the tread and then connect it with a thin cable.

What I cant figure out is how to connect the cable to itself? My plan is to build these 1/8th or so smaller diameter than my wheel/tire is now so I can put them on with my tire deflated and inflate the tire making it nice and tight.

froze

Just a thought, won't those chains damage the rims or at least scratch the heck out of them? Also if you look closely at the spacing of the chains there will be plenty of time the tire is contact with snow and or ice with no chain in contact, so there you go sliding on the ground and onto your ashe. Studs would work a lot better except your right you might have to change the tires; however according to my LBS, people ride with studded tires all winter without removing them when there is no snow or ice.

gosmsgo

I've read the opposite.

Ive read that chains work better than studs.

What have you read? Have any links? I would enjoy looking at them.

Im not riding 1600 miles on studded tires for just a few times I need them.

AndrewP

You wont know when you will need to ise the chains because there may be sudden variation in temperature for only a part of your route creating an unexpected icey patch. Use studs all winter. I have ridden in ice conditions without any of these traction aids - you just have to take more care with stopping and turning. I also used a cheap bike because I didnt want a nice bike to be subjected to the salt.

Cyclologist

Hey gosmsgo,

When you get this figured out, I would like to make a set myself following the plans you devise, so please post afterwards. Your big box hardware store should have everything you need. As far as the problem you mentioned about attaching the chain to itself, in the same aisle as the chain there ought to be some doohickies that attach chains or cables via a screw or bolt or something reversible like that. The picture actually shows little strips of chain attached to cable. You can probably crimp each segment of chain in place along the cable with the small crimping ferrules or whatever they're called and then crimp that reversible attachment point to the ends of the cable. It'll be kick ass. Good luck.

gosmsgo

why I can just keep these in my bike bag and put them on in a few minutes.

I'm gonna make some tomorrow and I will let you all know how they work.

If I go to Lowes and find out that all the supplies are going to be more than studded tires than obviously I am not going to go this route.

gosmsgo

I've decided to use heavy cord instead of cable.

I made a prototype with fishing line and this is what it looks like.

I am going to make 34 of these with a hook on them so I can just deflate the tires, put them on (5 minutes?) and inflate the tires when it looks like snow.

I can keep them in a ziplock bag in my bag and use them when I need them. By making 34 different ones if one fails it should not make any difference.

I'll keep the list updated and I appreciate any suggestions. That is why Im posting this....im looking for suggestions.

CRUM

God loves the Bike tinkerer. That's how we got airplanes. Go for it.

DDYTDY

I ran some store bought chains last winter. Very bumpy ride on the cleared spots. Bad handling too. On smooth ice the spacing was to far apart and I went down a few times riding on ponds.

Got some Nokians for the winter.

gosmsgo

DDTDY -

After looking at the products on market I had decided to put one every two spokes because that is what I saw.

Now, I have messing around and decided it really needs to be every spoke.

Here are some new pics.

FlatFender

do you think while riding them they will rotate around so the cord is between the tire and the ground?

gosmsgo

I doubt it.

I put these one pretty snug with the tire flat and then aired it up to 70 pounds and they were really tight.

Thats how Im planning on putting these on. My plan is to keep them with me and to put them on I take the air out of the tire, put them on and air it up.

They were so tight that I dont think they are going to move at all when riding which is one of the dangers of the ones on the market right now.

2manybikes

Tire Chains=

Deep snow and lotsa Horsepower (like 100hp)- Great!

Ice - terrible - two wheels, worse

Dry pavement -terrible - two wheels, worse


Studded tires =

Deep snow - the same as knobbies

Ice or really hard packed snow - unbelievable good, like pavement

Dry pavement - not bad - not as good as knobbies

gosmsgo

I take it you have a lot of experience with bike tire chains.

Which brands have you used? Why do you think you need more horsepower to use them effectively?

Check out this link because they seem to have a more positive attitude towards it.

https://www.icebike.org/Equipment/tirechains.htm

Mchaz

Will installing over 60 chains really take less time/less effort than swapping tires?

I applaud the DIY ingenuity of your project, but I'm doubting its practicality.

Moose

You should try to follow the design of the chains in the image you posted.

Using the individual chains strapped around the whole tire and rim is poing to be a PITA, especially if you have a flat and have to do this removal/installation roadside in the cold.

gosmsgo

Moose,

Those are designed like that because the rim has to be free of obstructions on most bikes.

I like my idea for a couple of reasons. If one part of this fails and breaks you would not even know it and things would just carry on. They should not slip, get jammed and cause you to wreck which has happened to some people. By design the type that do not cover the rim cannot be on very tight.

I understand what you are saying though. I'll find out.

Getting ready to walk to lowes and back right now so I'll get started in a couple hours.

gosmsgo

Ok,

I have it. After trying rope etc I decided to just skip the rope because the knots were hitting my fenders and it was just an unnecesary step.

Here is the plan.

Take #200 "twist chain" nickel plated with a 12# working load limit and some #21 "S Hooks."

Connect a S hook to the chain by crimping one end to the chain and wrap the chain around your deflated tire and wheel. Figure out how many links you need so that you can attach the chain with your tire deflated and it will be very snug when the tire in inflated. I needed 12 links of chain.

I test rode this and it worked very well and held together over the few miles I rode. I have no idea how it will work on ice or snow yet but Im confident it will be much, much better than the bare tire would have.

I can deflate the tires, put the chains on and inflate the tires much, much faster than I could change a pair of tires and I can keep these chains with me all the time and put on in a surprise snow or those days where it snows while I'm at work.

Here are the picture's.

well biked

Quotable quote.

2manybikes

Much better. Thiner chain closer to the tire, not as bumpy and more rubber on the road. Also lighter.
Notice the ones at Icebike have short teeth and are sharp for ice. More like studded tires. If you skid, brake hard, or stomp on the pedals, your chains may slide along the rim and tire, damaging both. Maybe just riding will do that. If you can connect them all together Like the ones on Icebike that won't happen as much. Use something light like an even smaller chain? You could still do the S hook method for on and off.

DDYTDY

That looks pretty good. Better spacing then what I was running. Be sure and let us know how they work!

I can't wait for snow!

mupedalpusher

Those look great gosmsgo! I hope we have NO snow in Columbia this year and those chains will stay in your bag!! If the chain rubs your rim you might be able to cut small pieces of clear rubber tubing to fit over the chanin on the rim side. I'd hate to scar up my rims but otherwise these are killer dude!!