This frame already has the right dropouts.

Just leave them alone, unless you want to do a full repaint after removing them.

Just screw on some LED blinkies....the ones for shrader valves.
They only turn on at night and with vibration.

I think I understand that is the aesthetics that are important to you here and it seems like the only thing that will really satisfy you is to remove them entirely. The bike has the right DO so it could be a nice bike.

If you can't do it right, wait until you can. Cover them somehow and go back and finish the job when you have the resources to paint properly. In fact, if you wait, you may even find that you will want to add some braze-ons for a rack or fenders or a pump peg, or a braze on for a number plate...

Do it all at once and repaint.

Horizontal drop outs and shifter bosses? Did some one add them to a track frame?

Don't be such a curmudgeon, bikes with track ends are not the only ones suitable for ss/fg.

[To the tune of the Barbara Mandrell classic]
If horizontal drops are wrong, I don't wanna be right.[/singing]

I don't understand what the fsck is your problem. I might or might not remove the downtube shifter gibbosities, but otherwise this frame does exactly what I want, and I already have it. Even if I didn't have this frame I wouldn't buy a track frame because it doesn't suit me for many reasons.

There are at least a couple of frames around that are designed as jacks-of-all-trades that can work well as either a geared or SS bike, mainly due to having horizontal dropouts in addition to a full complement of brake and shifter mounts and housing stops. I'm thinking specifically of the Surly Cross-Check and the Salsa Casseroll, though I'm sure there are others.

However, just as unneeded/unused braze-ons are a minus on an SS rig, horizontal dropouts are a bit of a PITA on a geared bike, so the "master of none" part of the aformentioned old saw is appropriate, IMHO.

Horizontal dropouts are fine for a geared bike. (been used on road bikes forever up until almost recently). If you have a rear deraileur, all you have to do is pull the rear wheel all the way back till it sits at the "bottom" of the dropout, and tighten the axle bolts or skewer. No worries.

Maybe it's just me, but I find that they do make it a bit harder to get the rear wheel on, especially when fenders and larger tires are involved, because you have to slide the wheel forward and then sort of jockey it around to get it into the dropouts, at which point the tire can wedge up against the chainstay bridge, requiring you to sort of force it in (the fender and its mounting bolt reduce the amount of clearance here, and just generally get in the way). At least that's what happens on my Cross-Check but it no doubt depends on the frame geometry, tires, and other factors. It's not that big of a deal (how often do you take the rear wheel off anyway), but whenever I perform the same task on my vertical-dropout road bike, it always seems noticeably easier and less fussy.

Usually if you slide the axle all the way back in the dropouts, your shifting will suffer. It's best to position the axle somewhere in the middle or closer to the front with horizontal dropouts.

Adjustment screws, the kind that screw in from the rear of the dropouts, allow you to slide the axle back to a "stop," and also allow fine adjustment to align the wheel in the frame.

On bikes without adjustment screws, often with adapter claw derailleur hangers, the claw is made in such a way that it won't allow the axle to slide back in the dropout more than about half way. On the other side, with this type of arrangement, there's often a spacer that is secured by tightening a screw, again providing a "stop" to slide the axle back against. These spacers can be moved fore or aft to fine tune alignment, then tightened up to provide a "stop" for the axle to slide back against. The spacers aren't by any means necessary, but are handy.

But the bottom line is that sliding the axle all the way to the back of the dropout on a bike with a rear derailleur is not a good idea-

Wake up and smell the coffee. This is how most bikes pre-approx-1980 were built. We're not talking track dropouts, just horizontal.

Perfect example right here: https://www.velostuf.com/campy1010early.jpg

True.

That's ture, too.

By horizontal I meant the track type open to the rear. Everyone is so touchey. Don't the forward opening dropouts run the risk of losing the wheel and not enough room to properly tension the chain?
I am not trying to insult anyone here and don't like the same directed at me.
Just asked a question so get over it, please.

Horizontal and track dropouts refer to two totally different things. Forward dropouts don't run the risk of losing the wheel because it's 99.999999999% likely that one side is loose and jams on that side.

I've never heard of anyone having the wheel come out both sides, equally and simultaenously enough to drop the wheel out - unless the QR/nuts were not secured AT all. One side will STILL jam (most likely the right) before the other.

Horizontal dropouts also will never run out of space to tension the chain with magic gears and half links. But you are right - some dropouts are longer than others. Track ends are typically longer or equal to most horizontal dropouts.

NO, No, NO. Those are brazed on. While you might be able to pop them off with a wrench, if the guy that brazed them was any good you will probably rip a nice hole in the tube.

There are some shifter stubs that are screwed in, Cannondale used them for example, but not yours.

Its probably brazed with brass (though I put my braze ons with silver) and trying to rip them off, will probably result in a damaged downtube. I'd leave them put, or take a grinder and grind it down.

Torching it will totally mess up your paint. I'm converting a frame now to a single speed (putting in track drops and removing all the brazeons) and the torch does wonders to the paint. Luckly my customer is getting it repainted and i dont have to worry about it.

All you need to adjust chain tension is half a chainlink length - that's by how much the rear wheel position changes when you remove/add a link. (Front-facing) horiz dropouts have way more than that to play with. Keep in mind you don't need extra room to pick up the chain in the first place, you can do that before getting the axle into the dropout. And with a pair of dropout adjust screws, you can set the tension once and get back to the same point every time.

As for losing the wheel forward, I don't see how that could happen, even with un-tightened axle nuts: the wheel would jam into the left chainstay at the first push on the pedals.

It's considered a no-no to apply heat to an assembled main triangle; I think it can warp the frame.

As for wrenching them off, they are down far enough from the butted ends that the tube walls are getting thin so you run a real risk of buggering up the tubes.

I like the LED blinkie idea.

Have you actually done this?

I have done it plenty of times, on a frame for myself and my girl friends and for customers who wish not to have these bosses protruding out from the frame.

Do you have any pictures of the results?

This does not look like it would screw off once it's brazed onto the frame.

There are some studs that are screwed into the braze-on bosses. I've had one come loose on me years ago when I raced with DT shifters (Yes, Johnny, there was a time before ErgoPower and STI).