Anyone run a completely dry drivetrain?
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Anyone run a completely dry drivetrain?
Seems like most wear is from dirt held in by a grease that grinds away at the cogs/chain.
Anyone run their chain/cassette/chainrings just completely clean and dry with no lubricant on them at all?
Would this work?
Anyone run their chain/cassette/chainrings just completely clean and dry with no lubricant on them at all?
Would this work?
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Not to mention that it would be noisy and shift less than smoothly.
Az
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This is where the wax lubes excell but you have to apply them fairly often. I like the wax lube called squirt as it has alot more wax and is longer lasting than the other wax lubes
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... holds in the dirt ?? How did the dirt get in there?
A dry chain will stay dry, but it won't stay clean.
Metal-to-metal contact between moving parts produces wear. Lubrication helps by keeping the parts apart. But when something harder than the metal - like sand - keeps the parts apart, the metal disintegrates a lot faster. Bike lubes a) keep the parts apart, b) seal out the sand - and chemicals like hydrogen oxide.
A dry chain will stay dry, but it won't stay clean.
Metal-to-metal contact between moving parts produces wear. Lubrication helps by keeping the parts apart. But when something harder than the metal - like sand - keeps the parts apart, the metal disintegrates a lot faster. Bike lubes a) keep the parts apart, b) seal out the sand - and chemicals like hydrogen oxide.
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Last edited by DMF; 02-08-08 at 12:36 PM.
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Metal-to-metal contact between moving parts produces wear. Lubrication helps by keeping the parts apart. But when something harder than the metal - like sand - keeps the parts apart, the metal disintegrates a lot faster. Bike lubes a) keep the parts apart, b) seal out the sand - and chemicals like hydrogen oxide.[/QUOTE]
Lubricants that seal out the sand will only do so if they don't attract the sand particles in the first place. If you have a matrix that holds the particle, some of them will eventually grind their way into the mechanism. Waxes do a very good job of not attracting particles and sealing out dihydrogen monoxide.
If you are riding where there is a prevalence of hydrogen oxide, I feel very sorry for you...that's gonna hurt like hell and your aluminum parts aren't going to last long
Lubricants that seal out the sand will only do so if they don't attract the sand particles in the first place. If you have a matrix that holds the particle, some of them will eventually grind their way into the mechanism. Waxes do a very good job of not attracting particles and sealing out dihydrogen monoxide.
If you are riding where there is a prevalence of hydrogen oxide, I feel very sorry for you...that's gonna hurt like hell and your aluminum parts aren't going to last long
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Last edited by cyccommute; 02-08-08 at 04:14 PM.
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i say give it ago. i am thinking about trying it myself. just haven't got around to it. i would start by cleaning everything really well.
although one thing to consider is rust. i have used only wd40 on my chain in the past...but again, this is still something wet and not dry as you mentioned above.
assuming rust wouldn't be too big a problem, only noise would irritate me if it were present.
try it, things aren't going to self-destruct. if it doesn't seem like it is working, go back to lube. its not like the whole chain is all tight tolerances. chances are, you would never realize any extra wear during a trial period.
i have heard of people running heavy equipment machinery dry at some of the pivots rather than using grease... hahaha
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I hate applying constantly applying wax lubes but usually use a wet lube that goes on pretty dry once most of the evil spirits evaporate, Dumonde Tech Lite.
Where dihydrogen monoxide cannot be avoided I use something that stays put, Phil's Tenacious.
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Some years ago, I tried a dry chain for one year or thereabouts. The drivetrain became rather noisy but other than that there was no noticable difference in wear or any other attribute.
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Lubes don't attract the sand; they only hold it (hopefully out of the innards). It shows up all on its own.
Picky picky picky.
H2O acts as both an acid and a base (and I don't ride no steenkin' aluminum anyway).
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most people who will see this as a bad thing on this site have probably not actually tried it. i am not refering to those above...just in general.
i say give it ago. i am thinking about trying it myself. just haven't got around to it. i would start by cleaning everything really well.
although one thing to consider is rust. i have used only wd40 on my chain in the past...but again, this is still something wet and not dry as you mentioned above.
assuming rust wouldn't be too big a problem, only noise would irritate me if it were present.
try it, things aren't going to self-destruct. if it doesn't seem like it is working, go back to lube. its not like the whole chain is all tight tolerances. chances are, you would never realize any extra wear during a trial period.
i have heard of people running heavy equipment machinery dry at some of the pivots rather than using grease... hahaha
i say give it ago. i am thinking about trying it myself. just haven't got around to it. i would start by cleaning everything really well.
although one thing to consider is rust. i have used only wd40 on my chain in the past...but again, this is still something wet and not dry as you mentioned above.
assuming rust wouldn't be too big a problem, only noise would irritate me if it were present.
try it, things aren't going to self-destruct. if it doesn't seem like it is working, go back to lube. its not like the whole chain is all tight tolerances. chances are, you would never realize any extra wear during a trial period.
i have heard of people running heavy equipment machinery dry at some of the pivots rather than using grease... hahaha
I haven't personally tried it nor do I see any reason to.
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I figure the chain would wear out really quickly due to the lack of lube.There'd be nothing to stop the dirt from getting in.Also what's to stop the dreaded rust from developing?
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I would expect rust to form, unless the environment is desert like. Anyone know how abrasive ferrous oxides (rust) are? If rust is "abrasive", then a dry chain can be expected to wear.
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Ride in any densely packed urban area and you'll see lots of cyclists who ride for transportation. On the Plateau and Mile End districts of Montréal, for instance, about 1/3 the bikes I see had their chain greased when the bike was new... in 1970 or 1980. Even with auto traffic, you hear them about 1 block away.
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Iron wheels? Iron crank? Where do you get the iron derailers? You must have huge thighs
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Stuart Black
Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
Old School…When It Wasn’t Ancient bikepacking
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!