A LBS replaced my brake calipers about a year ago. Now I notice that the pad is closer to the wheel on one side. I tried re-aligning the wheel and that looks OK.

The bike is a Trek 5200 (with I think) direct pull. How do I get the calipers to center over the wheel?

Assuming the wheel is true and properly dished and it's seated properly in the dropouts, you center direct pull, or V-, brakes, by adjusting a little screw near the pivot bolt on each arm. It's a spring tension screw; if you turn the screw in (clockwise), it tightens the spring, which pulls the respective arm away from the wheel. Try tightening the screw of the arm that is too close. If you get the screw in a ways and the arm is still too close, try loosening the screw on the other arm.

Edit, if you still can't get the pads centered, you can try rearranging the washers on the pads. Some pads have different sized washers that go on either side of the brake arm.

Thanks JT. I see the screws and will work on them tonight. The miss-aligned calipers really seem to reduce braking power esp noticible when traveling at faster speeds.

I"m not seeing a screw on both sides. For the Ultegra where is that?

Edited: Ultegra SL 6600-G brake calipers are supposed to have a centering bolt somewhere. When something's spring-bound, I don't want to end up with a mess. Need help!

You might also try afjusting the centering of the brake by loosening the back nut adjusting to center and tightening it back up,that screw is supposed to be a micro adjust for brake pad width only.Also check if yer brake cable housing is too short as this will cause the caliper to come out of alignment over time.
if it has a nice smooth curve from bar to brake its ok, if it comes out of the bar tape at an acute angle(perhaps you raised the stem ) it will be too short .

Your picture shows the correct centering screw. It requiresa a 3 mm Allen key>

Turning the key CW, rotates BOTH arms CCW. Turn the key CCW, rotates BOTH arms CW.

Good Luck

Incorrect.

Huh. That screw is not a brake cable fine adjust. It's the centering screw which should not be used, see below.

You don't need an allen key to do this method.

Do NOT use the centering screw. The only thing you are doing is

1) yes you're centering but more importantly
2) you're decreasing the spring tension

With dual pivoits, all you have to do is grab the caliper with your hand and physically move it. It is NOT necessary for pads to touch at the same time.

I tried this method first because this is how it worked on my old S-105 bike. Physically moving worked temporarily. One pad is nearly touching the rim while the other has about 50mm clearance. When it rains, the pad closest to the rim fills up and is basically sanding the rim. Braking power is diminished.

I have some extra washers that came with the brake shoes maybe I'll try that next.

I think that there's a lot of goofy advice on this thread. Ultegra dual pivot brakes are among the nicest and easiest brakes to adjust.

1. The hex screw on the caliper arm adjusts the release spring tension. Calling it a centering screw is a bit of a misnomer. If you increase the release spring tension on that arm, it will release faster than the opposite arm. If you adjust it until the spring tensions on both arms are equal, the pads will move inwardly and outwardly together. When the brakes are released they will be equi-distance from the rim.

2. When your initially setting up the brake you want the spring adjusting screw to be about halfway out. That will give you some adjustment scope in either direction.

3. With that adjustment scew halfway out, look at the caliper as a whole. loosen the bolt that holds the whole caliper to the bike. Center the caliper with your hand and retighten.

4. Cycle the brake. If one arm moves faster than the other, fiddle with the return spring adjustment screw until the two arms are equal.

Thanks everyone. I downloaded the Shimano SI for the 6600 calipers. Mine were really out of wack and I knew that a tiny fine-tuning screw would not 'fix it'.

So I tightened the cable first with a plier (being careful not to pull off the terminator.
Then I followed instructions #4 and 5 on the sheet (and factoring in RG's comments below). Success!


As I stated in a previous post...when working with springs, it's always good to know what the heck you're doing.

vrkelley- Been away from here a couple days. Sorry my advice was off--it was regarding direct-pull brakes, but those are side-pull. I should have caught that with the "5200" model.

A simple way the get the Brakes centered is to loosen the nut holding the brake in place (not too much) and apply the brakes by squeezing the break lever. While holding the lever tighten the nut holding the caliper in place. That will get you 99% there then, adjust the arms the remaining way. After that I usually don't have to make any adjustments. Good luck.