Star nut?
#2
Senior Member


Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 30,225
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From: St Peters, Missouri
Bikes: Catrike 559 I own some others but they don't get ridden very much.
It's not a difficult job but the devil is in the details.
First of all, if you have a fork with a carbon fiber steerer tube, you want to use a compression nut rather than a star nut.
Assuming that you have a fork with a metal steerer, find a bolt with the right thread to match your star nut. Use that to tap the star nut down into the steerer tube.
1. Make sure that you have the steerer cut to the right length. Deburr the cut edge.
2. Use something like a 2 X 4 under your fork crown so you don't bugger up your fork's dropouts against the floor.
3. Start slow and work at getting the star nut started straight. The biggest advantage of using the proper tool is that it makes it easier to get the star nut started straight.
4. You want the top of the star nut to be 15mm below the top of the steerer tube. Measure your progress as you go.
First of all, if you have a fork with a carbon fiber steerer tube, you want to use a compression nut rather than a star nut.
Assuming that you have a fork with a metal steerer, find a bolt with the right thread to match your star nut. Use that to tap the star nut down into the steerer tube.
1. Make sure that you have the steerer cut to the right length. Deburr the cut edge.
2. Use something like a 2 X 4 under your fork crown so you don't bugger up your fork's dropouts against the floor.
3. Start slow and work at getting the star nut started straight. The biggest advantage of using the proper tool is that it makes it easier to get the star nut started straight.
4. You want the top of the star nut to be 15mm below the top of the steerer tube. Measure your progress as you go.
#3
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2004
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From: Davis CA
Bikes: Surly Cross-Check, '85 Giant road bike (unrecogizable fixed-gear conversion
#4
Thread Starter
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Joined: Sep 2005
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So basicly, all you really have to do is tap it down? I guess if you had a rod of metal, or a tube of metal , slightly smaller in diameter than your steer tube, than you could just use that to make sure it stays straight on the way down? Does a star nut really do all that much? Cause my stem clamps onto my steer tube using two strong bolts. I guess you can never have to much strength.
#6
So basicly, all you really have to do is tap it down? I guess if you had a rod of metal, or a tube of metal , slightly smaller in diameter than your steer tube, than you could just use that to make sure it stays straight on the way down? Does a star nut really do all that much? Cause my stem clamps onto my steer tube using two strong bolts. I guess you can never have to much strength.
The starnut is only to preload the bearing (it places a constant vertical force on the bearing system) and is used to adjust the headset. Once you tighten the stem to the steerer tube, the starnut has no function. In fact, I've heard of riders removing the starnut to save weight.
#7
Thread Starter
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Joined: Sep 2005
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Ok, now I understand. Would I be able to take the star nut out of my old fork , and install it in my new fork. Or would the star nut have lost is retaining abillity? Both of the steer tubes are the same diameter.
#8
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Joined: Aug 2007
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From: Northampton, MA
Bikes: Iron Monkey: a junkyard steel 26" slick-tired city bike. Grey Fox: A Trek 7x00 frame, painted, with everything built, from spokes up. Jet Jaguar: A 92 Cannondale R900 frame, powder coated matte black with red and aluminum highlights.
I used a wooden dowel. It keeps things from getting dinged up. Also, you can cut the dowel to the length you want for the depth, then go at it with a rubber mallet or a hammer on top of a chunk of 2x4.
I found it hard to get started — that's some stiff spring — but once it was going, no big deal.
I found it hard to get started — that's some stiff spring — but once it was going, no big deal.
#11
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Joined: Aug 2005
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From: Pittsburgh, PA
Bikes: '96 Litespeed Catalyst, '05 Litespeed Firenze, '06 Litespeed Tuscany, '20 Surly Midnight Special, All are 3x10. It is hilly around here!
You can get them mailorder if the closest LBS is too far to be worth the trip.
RG's installation procedure is a good one. I like to thread a suitable bolt completely into the starnut to act as the driver, It protects the threads and doesn't interfer with the "pedals" as a full diameter dowel might.
Use caution to keep the bolt centered in the steerer to assure the nut goes in straight. Once the starnut is flush with the steerer, you can remove the bolt, add the topcap and rethread the bolt so the topcap acts as a centering guide as you drive it down the remaining 15 mm.
#13
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Joined: Aug 2005
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From: Pittsburgh, PA
Bikes: '96 Litespeed Catalyst, '05 Litespeed Firenze, '06 Litespeed Tuscany, '20 Surly Midnight Special, All are 3x10. It is hilly around here!
True.
One thing I neglected to mention is that not all forks have the steerer open at the bottom. I have a Kestrel EMS carbon fork with a Cr-Mo steerer and the steerer tube is completely closed at the bottom. I also have a Kinesis Al fork with a Cr-Mo steerer and the fork crown has only a small vent hole under the steerer. In either case the starnut couldn't be removed from the bottom.
One thing I neglected to mention is that not all forks have the steerer open at the bottom. I have a Kestrel EMS carbon fork with a Cr-Mo steerer and the steerer tube is completely closed at the bottom. I also have a Kinesis Al fork with a Cr-Mo steerer and the fork crown has only a small vent hole under the steerer. In either case the starnut couldn't be removed from the bottom.
#14
I have a Kestrel EMS carbon fork with a Cr-Mo steerer and the steerer tube is completely closed at the bottom. I also have a Kinesis Al fork with a Cr-Mo steerer and the fork crown has only a small vent hole under the steerer. In either case the starnut couldn't be removed from the bottom.
#15
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Joined: Aug 2005
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From: Pittsburgh, PA
Bikes: '96 Litespeed Catalyst, '05 Litespeed Firenze, '06 Litespeed Tuscany, '20 Surly Midnight Special, All are 3x10. It is hilly around here!
#18
cab horn

Joined: Jun 2004
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From: Toronto
Bikes: 1987 Bianchi Campione
#19
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Joined: Aug 2006
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I've always found it pretty hard to get it to go in straight at the beginning. When you whack on the bolt, one side always tends to go in first causing it to cock sideways. I usually resort to using a punch on the other side to get it past the lip. Once you've got it fully in around the entire circumference, it's easy to drive it straight down. (Maybe more chamfer on the steerer lip might help.) It's always worked out, but it's surprisingly hard. If a LBS is close, I'd just have the LBS do it (and install the crown race as well). They've typically got tools that make this sort of thing unbelievably easy and foolproof.
- Mark
- Mark
Last edited by markjenn; 02-10-08 at 10:50 PM.
#20
Just don't be a ****** and try to figure out how to do without a star nut. Buy a new one for the new fork (think about it: the old fork is useless without it) and don't try to remove it after the headset is adjusted to save weight.
If I was on a ride with someone crying about their headset coming loose and not being able to adjust it because they removed the starnut to save weight...I'd laugh and leave them for the bears.
If I was on a ride with someone crying about their headset coming loose and not being able to adjust it because they removed the starnut to save weight...I'd laugh and leave them for the bears.
#21
How much does it weigh?
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 3,427
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From: Weight Weenie on a budget.
Bikes: Lotus Fixed, Bianchi Virata 2004
Sorry to bump this thread, but to continue on the 'star nut' question:
I've got a full CF fork that, I've recently found out, was installed - stock - with a starnut.
I'm going to be changing out the headset, as the current one is shot, and I thought this would be a good opportunity to switch over to using the Tune Gum Gum in place of the starnut once the bearings are set.
Now - full CF steerer + starnut. Any good, recommended ways to take out the star nut with out totally killing the fork's steerer?
I've got a full CF fork that, I've recently found out, was installed - stock - with a starnut.

I'm going to be changing out the headset, as the current one is shot, and I thought this would be a good opportunity to switch over to using the Tune Gum Gum in place of the starnut once the bearings are set.
Now - full CF steerer + starnut. Any good, recommended ways to take out the star nut with out totally killing the fork's steerer?
#24
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Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 1,509
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From: Quahog, RI
Bikes: Giant TCR Comps, Cdale R5000, Klein Q-Pro, Litespeed Siena, Piasano 105, Redline Conquest Pro, Voodoo Bizango, Fuji Aloha
Sorry to bump this thread, but to continue on the 'star nut' question:
I've got a full CF fork that, I've recently found out, was installed - stock - with a starnut.
I'm going to be changing out the headset, as the current one is shot, and I thought this would be a good opportunity to switch over to using the Tune Gum Gum in place of the starnut once the bearings are set.
Now - full CF steerer + starnut. Any good, recommended ways to take out the star nut with out totally killing the fork's steerer?
I've got a full CF fork that, I've recently found out, was installed - stock - with a starnut.

I'm going to be changing out the headset, as the current one is shot, and I thought this would be a good opportunity to switch over to using the Tune Gum Gum in place of the starnut once the bearings are set.
Now - full CF steerer + starnut. Any good, recommended ways to take out the star nut with out totally killing the fork's steerer?
A few manufacturers, notably Cannondale, use a special starnut for CF sterers. Totally legit. If that's the case, no worries. I'd be cautious of pounding down a starnut through a CF steerer. Was it installed by a shop? If so it is either a) legit or b) their bad. Need more info.





