disc brake pro's and con's for road bikes
05-20-08, 03:15 PM
#26
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What? How can a wheel be "have dish both sides"?
05-20-08, 05:31 PM
#27
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Okay, you got me, I hadn't had my coffee yet.
What I meant was the spokes will be more vertical in the rear, requiring higher tension and less lateral stability
What I meant was the spokes will be more vertical in the rear, requiring higher tension and less lateral stability
05-20-08, 08:42 PM
#28
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The weight will come down, especially if someone makes a "Disk Only" rim, a lot of weight can be saved because the sidewall of the rim wouln't have to be beefed up to handle being used as a braking surface....
Smitty
Smitty
05-20-08, 08:53 PM
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Nonsense! I don't know any brake that's easier to install and adjust than Avid's BB7 mechanical disc brakes.
And it's more than just stopping power they're good at. The power modulation and the consistency in different weather conditions are far more important factors. The lack of wear on the rim is another...
I really hope the big bike companies get going with disc brake-ready frames as soon as possible. All to gain and almost nothing to lose.
And it's more than just stopping power they're good at. The power modulation and the consistency in different weather conditions are far more important factors. The lack of wear on the rim is another...
I really hope the big bike companies get going with disc brake-ready frames as soon as possible. All to gain and almost nothing to lose.
I have to admit brake adjustment is not one of my strong points, but since having a disc on my front wheel I find it very easy to adjust. I also cannot notice any difference in stopping power in wet weather, it seems just as good as in the dry. I also have to clean my rear wheel more then the front, the rear wheel is often full of dust and debris from the rim brakes.
My next bike will have disc front and back.
05-20-08, 08:59 PM
#30
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05-21-08, 04:14 PM
#31
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I have read about rear hubs made with the flanges intentionally spaced closer together (i.e., the non-drive side flange was moved closer to the center) to reduce the needed dish and make the non-drive-side spokes more vertical. That tends to equalize the tension between the drive and non-drive side spokes and, according to the claims, makes the wheel more durable. I expect a disc hub made for 130 mm road bike dropouts might do this automatically.
05-21-08, 05:51 PM
#32
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I think that if you check out the cross section diagrams you'll find that only a few rims have extra meat in the braking areas. The hardcore road racing rims generally don't bother or only have a small amount that is required to form the flat areas. All in all I think we're talking less than 4 to 5 grams extra for braking per rim. Certainly not much more.
05-21-08, 11:43 PM
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I've pretty much stopped cleaning my bikes at all. Of course, just last weekend I had to make an archaeological expedition to find the b-screw under all the gunk because I wanted to adjust it.
05-22-08, 03:03 AM
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I have read about rear hubs made with the flanges intentionally spaced closer together (i.e., the non-drive side flange was moved closer to the center) to reduce the needed dish and make the non-drive-side spokes more vertical. That tends to equalize the tension between the drive and non-drive side spokes and, according to the claims, makes the wheel more durable.
Looking at rear hubs it looks like there's enough clearance for a disc brake already, without any particular need to move the NDS flange further inboard.
