Changing from Center-Pull to Side-Pull: Issues?
#1
Thread Starter
Ex-Lion Tamer
Joined: Jan 2006
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From: Brooklyn, N.Y.
Bikes: 1982 Lotus Legend (steel-frame touring bike); 1982 Fuji S10S (converted to a singlespeed: 46x16); Specialized Crossroads hybrid (the child taxi).
Changing from Center-Pull to Side-Pull: Issues?
I've got a Fuji fixed-gear conversion circa 1983. It came with center-pull brakes. I'd like to switch to a front side-pull brake.
Here are my questions.
• Before I get too far into this, I'm not imagining the superiority of side-pull brakes to center-pulls, am I?
• The wheels are 27". Reach would be a problem only if I had switched to 700c wheels, right?
• Are there any issues I'm not even considering? Will the bolt on, say, a Shimano Ultegra side-pull be either too short or too fat to work with my fork?
Thanks for your help.
Here are my questions.
• Before I get too far into this, I'm not imagining the superiority of side-pull brakes to center-pulls, am I?
• The wheels are 27". Reach would be a problem only if I had switched to 700c wheels, right?
• Are there any issues I'm not even considering? Will the bolt on, say, a Shimano Ultegra side-pull be either too short or too fat to work with my fork?
Thanks for your help.
#2
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 912
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From: Mid-Atlantic
Bikes: A bunch
I don't think you will necessarily do that much better with sidepulls over centerpulls provided those centerpulls are using modern brake blocks. If improving braking is your objective, consider keeping the centerpulls and putting Koolstop blocks on them before you switch caliper designs.
Centerpulls with modern blocks are very effective brakes and generally allow more flexibility in using things like fenders than do modern dual-pivot sidepulls.
Centerpulls with modern blocks are very effective brakes and generally allow more flexibility in using things like fenders than do modern dual-pivot sidepulls.
#3
I've got a Fuji fixed-gear conversion circa 1983. It came with center-pull brakes. I'd like to switch to a front side-pull brake.
Here are my questions.
• Before I get too far into this, I'm not imagining the superiority of side-pull brakes to center-pulls, am I?
• The wheels are 27". Reach would be a problem only if I had switched to 700c wheels, right?
• Are there any issues I'm not even considering? Will the bolt on, say, a Shimano Ultegra side-pull be either too short or too fat to work with my fork?
Thanks for your help.
Here are my questions.
• Before I get too far into this, I'm not imagining the superiority of side-pull brakes to center-pulls, am I?
• The wheels are 27". Reach would be a problem only if I had switched to 700c wheels, right?
• Are there any issues I'm not even considering? Will the bolt on, say, a Shimano Ultegra side-pull be either too short or too fat to work with my fork?
Thanks for your help.
There's no reason you can't get excellent braking performance from centerpulls. Kool Stop salmon pads and aero brake levers are the key things that will improve the performance of your braking. I have an '83 Schwinn I ride nearly everyday that's equipped with its original centerpull brakes, and with Kool Stops and aero brake levers it has very, very good brakes.
Centerpulls are nutted brakes, meaning they don't use the recessed nut that modern brakes do, so you'll need to drill the rear of your fork out if you want to use a brake with a recessed nut. As far as the reach question, you just have to measure your required reach and see what you need. There are modern sidepull brakes that will work, but they will likely have to be of the "long reach" variety, because brake reach on older road bikes such as your Fuji require longer reach brakes than typical modern road calipers.
#4
Batüwü Griekgriek


Joined: May 2005
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Bikes: 1986 Trek 500 Tri Series, 2005 Cannondale R1000
There's no reason you can't get excellent braking performance from centerpulls. Kool Stop salmon pads and aero brake levers are the key things that will improve the performance of your braking. I have an '83 Schwinn I ride nearly everyday that's equipped with its original centerpull brakes, and with Kool Stops and aero brake levers it has very, very good brakes.
Centerpulls are nutted brakes, meaning they don't use the recessed nut that modern brakes do, so you'll need to drill the rear of your fork out if you want to use a brake with a recessed nut. As far as the reach question, you just have to measure your required reach and see what you need. There are modern sidepull brakes that will work, but they will likely have to be of the "long reach" variety, because brake reach on older road bikes such as your Fuji require longer reach brakes than typical modern road calipers.
Centerpulls are nutted brakes, meaning they don't use the recessed nut that modern brakes do, so you'll need to drill the rear of your fork out if you want to use a brake with a recessed nut. As far as the reach question, you just have to measure your required reach and see what you need. There are modern sidepull brakes that will work, but they will likely have to be of the "long reach" variety, because brake reach on older road bikes such as your Fuji require longer reach brakes than typical modern road calipers.
If they were old school sidepulls, I'd say go for the switch.
Nashbar sells cheap long reach dual pivot side pulls. I put one on my mid 80s trek road bike (replaced a very flimsy lower end Shimano single pivot sidepull). I could only use the front, as my frame was not easily drilled for the recessed nut of the rear caliper. Feel free to PM if you want that rear caliper.
#5
You probably are better off keeping the centerpulls - maybe clean them off, get new kool stop pads and new cables.
If they were old school sidepulls, I'd say go for the switch.
Nashbar sells cheap long reach dual pivot side pulls. I put one on my mid 80s trek road bike (replaced a very flimsy lower end Shimano single pivot sidepull). I could only use the front, as my frame was not easily drilled for the recessed nut of the rear caliper. Feel free to PM if you want that rear caliper.
If they were old school sidepulls, I'd say go for the switch.
Nashbar sells cheap long reach dual pivot side pulls. I put one on my mid 80s trek road bike (replaced a very flimsy lower end Shimano single pivot sidepull). I could only use the front, as my frame was not easily drilled for the recessed nut of the rear caliper. Feel free to PM if you want that rear caliper.
Why are you responding to my post?
Last edited by well biked; 04-22-08 at 02:52 PM.
#6
Senior Member


Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 30,225
Likes: 649
From: St Peters, Missouri
Bikes: Catrike 559 I own some others but they don't get ridden very much.
• Before I get too far into this, I'm not imagining the superiority of side-pull brakes to center-pulls, am I?
• The wheels are 27". Reach would be a problem only if I had switched to 700c wheels, right?
• Are there any issues I'm not even considering? Will the bolt on, say, a Shimano Ultegra side-pull be either too short or too fat to work with my fork?
• The wheels are 27". Reach would be a problem only if I had switched to 700c wheels, right?
• Are there any issues I'm not even considering? Will the bolt on, say, a Shimano Ultegra side-pull be either too short or too fat to work with my fork?
2. Depending on the bike brake reach may or may not be a problem. Many older bikes with 27" wheels had a LOT of clearance for relatively big tires and fenders. If your bike is one of those, you'll still need long reach brakes.
3. The bolts that hold the brakes onto your bike have changed. It's relatively easy to drill out the rear of the fork crown for the recessed nut that comes with most modern brakes. Drilling the rear brake bridge is another story.
#7
Batüwü Griekgriek


Joined: May 2005
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Bikes: 1986 Trek 500 Tri Series, 2005 Cannondale R1000




