Tool used to tighten the crank
#3
Senior Member

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Depending on the crank, you use either a socket wrench or an allen wrench to tighten it. Take off the dust cap and look at the bolt. I don't know if different tools are used for the really fancy high-end cranks, but a socket wrench or allen key is fine for most.
If the crank arm is consistently loosening, then you have an undiagnosed problem. Tightening it whenever it gets loose is fine, but it will never stop happening unless you fix the underlying problem.
If the crank arm is consistently loosening, then you have an undiagnosed problem. Tightening it whenever it gets loose is fine, but it will never stop happening unless you fix the underlying problem.
#4
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From: Toronto, ON
Bikes: 2007 Trek 1500, 1998 Raleigh Tarantula
If it's this, you just need an 8 mm allen.

If it's this, you need a socket wrench.

But as relyt was saying, this doesn't really solve anything permanently if your crank arm keeps loosening.

If it's this, you need a socket wrench.

But as relyt was saying, this doesn't really solve anything permanently if your crank arm keeps loosening.
#5
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From: Boulder, Colorado
Bikes: Cinelli Supercoursa 69, Ritchey Breakaway Cross, Mondonico Diamond Extra 05, Coors Light Greg Lemond (built by Scapin) 88, Scapin MTB, Stumpjumper 83, Specialized Stumpjumper M4, Lemond Poprad 2001
Torque Wrench.
#7
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If you have a tapered BB then most likely the crank interface is buggered which is causing the continued looseness.
#8
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Or a 7mm allen (!) if it happens to be one of a couple '80s Campagnolo cranks w/self-extracting bolts.
Typically 14mm, but some (Campagnolo in particular) will require a thin-wall 15mm socket, a pipe socket, or Campagnolo's own spoon-shaped remover to clear the remover threads.
Pipe socket:

-Kurt
Typically 14mm, but some (Campagnolo in particular) will require a thin-wall 15mm socket, a pipe socket, or Campagnolo's own spoon-shaped remover to clear the remover threads.
Pipe socket:

-Kurt
Last edited by cudak888; 05-05-08 at 09:07 AM.
#9
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Joined: Aug 2007
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From: Sioux Falls, SD, USA
Bikes: Schwinn Ranger, 26"
Mine doesn't look like either (stock Huffy MTB). The cranks are curved coming out of the bike. There's a hex nut around the base where the crank (non-drive side) comes out. Would an adjustable wrench or channel-lock pliers work?
Neither crank is loose, but if you hold onto both pedals with your hands, you can 'wobble' them side to side.
Neither crank is loose, but if you hold onto both pedals with your hands, you can 'wobble' them side to side.
#10
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From: Salinas , Ca.
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you need a 15MM thin wall socket . your problem is your crank arms ,they are make of a soft metal and need replacing . the hole in the arms are enlarging and that why they keep coming lose on you . I have see allot of this around here because people buy chap bikes.
#11
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From: Corvallis, OR, USA
Bikes: 2006 Windsor Dover w/105, 2007 GT Avalanche w/XT, 1995 Trek 820 setup for touring, 201? Yeah single-speed folder, 199? Huffy tandem.
Mine doesn't look like either (stock Huffy MTB). The cranks are curved coming out of the bike. There's a hex nut around the base where the crank (non-drive side) comes out. Would an adjustable wrench or channel-lock pliers work?
Neither crank is loose, but if you hold onto both pedals with your hands, you can 'wobble' them side to side.
Neither crank is loose, but if you hold onto both pedals with your hands, you can 'wobble' them side to side.
Edit: Rico_SPD, just noticed you are not the OP. If you have a one-piece system, the replies in this thread won't really help you. Check out: https://sheldonbrown.com/opc.html
#12
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One other thing I figured would be wise to add:
Some '80s Campagnolo cranksets with the following remover assembly utilize 7mm allen keys. Beware - 7mm keys are hard to come by. Reasonably easy to grind an 8mm down to fit snugly in the 7mm socket though.
-Kurt






