Hex Key Sets - Ball end or Standard?
#1
Hex Key Sets - Ball end or Standard?
I'm going to buy a set of Allen Hex Key Set, but wondering if I should get the ball head or standard heads for bike mechanical work.
The set I'm considering is similar to this, which has the ball head (aka Bondhus):
https://www.performancebike.com/shop/...slisearch=true
The set I'm considering is similar to this, which has the ball head (aka Bondhus):
https://www.performancebike.com/shop/...slisearch=true
#2
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2007
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From: Ballard, WA
Bikes: '98 Kona Kula, '8X Univega Sportour SS, '81 Trek 710
I would go with the ball head. It makes so many things so much easier. When I have to use my non-ball head allen keys, I always notice that it would be nicer with the ball.
Just don't use the ball end to torque anything. A guaranteed way to insert an anti-theft device.
Just don't use the ball end to torque anything. A guaranteed way to insert an anti-theft device.
#3
Pedal turner
Joined: Mar 2006
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From: Chicagoland
Bikes: Specialized Roubaix Pro (Carbon), Specialized Langster, Specialized Sequoia, No-name MTB
I personally just use the standard head type, but rather than the T-handle driver, I prefer 3/8" sockets. Attach to ratchet or driver as needed and have more options (just be careful not to use god-force torque when tightening with a ratchet).
Non-ball, 6-piece $30
https://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...ord=hex+socket
Ball (long version), 6-piece $50
https://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...ord=hex+socket
Non-ball, 6-piece $30
https://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...ord=hex+socket
Ball (long version), 6-piece $50
https://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...ord=hex+socket
#4
Elitist Troglodyte
Joined: Jun 2006
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From: Dallas
Bikes: 03 Raleigh Professional (steel)
Why an either/or choice? I have - and use - T-handles, L-handles (long and short), ratchet sockets, fixed sets, some in ball-end, some in straight end. Each is better than the others at something.
For a first set (assuming you're working on bikes), a quality L-handle straight-end set is a good place to start.
For a first set (assuming you're working on bikes), a quality L-handle straight-end set is a good place to start.
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#5
Senior Member
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Why an either/or choice? I have - and use - T-handles, L-handles (long and short), ratchet sockets, fixed sets, some in ball-end, some in straight end. Each is better than the others at something.
For a first set (assuming you're working on bikes), a quality L-handle straight-end set is a good place to start.
For a first set (assuming you're working on bikes), a quality L-handle straight-end set is a good place to start.
The basic L is a good set to start with. Get a set of balls when you can afford it to make those tight access jobs easier.
Th 1/4" or whatever size drive sets can get expensive. Bit sets are harder to find but more affordable:
Bondhus ball end driver bits - $17
#6
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From: Pittsburgh, PA
Bikes: '96 Litespeed Catalyst, '05 Litespeed Firenze, '06 Litespeed Tuscany, '20 Surly Midnight Special, All are 3x10. It is hilly around here!
Ball ends are convenient but don't have the "grip" that plain end L-wrenches have on marginal or damaged bolts and, if torqued too much, the ball can break off. If you use them, be careful where and how.
Considering the low cost of Allen wrenches, get both types.
Considering the low cost of Allen wrenches, get both types.
#8
Senior Member
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Bikes: 80's Marin, 90's Dawes, ALAN & various unicycles.
Use "normal" hex keys for tightning/untightning, & use the "ball" end ones to spin the bolt in & out quickly.
The normal hex has a MUCH greater contact area than the ball, so less damage to the fastner & hex key.
IMO the traditional "L" shaped ones with normal on the short side & ball on the long side are the most usefull.
The normal hex has a MUCH greater contact area than the ball, so less damage to the fastner & hex key.
IMO the traditional "L" shaped ones with normal on the short side & ball on the long side are the most usefull.
#9
Senior Member
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From: Bakersfield, Host of the 2012 ToC ITT
Bikes: Waterford 2200
I also like the "L" type with standard on the short end and ball on the long end. You can get a metric and standard set at Sears for $29.99. https://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...sName=Hex+Keys
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#10
Sometimes a L shape is better, sometimes with the ball end, some times without, but sometimes t-handles make bike assembling and dissemble a snap. Check out harbor freight for the t-handles. Bought two sets (metric and sae) a few years ago and they're still going strong after much abuse, both from auto and bike. And they were both very cheap.
#12
Hanging On

Joined: Jul 2007
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Allen wrenches are really cheap, ball end or no. It doesn't seem worth agonizing over. The other suggestions are good, too. I have several sets of Allen wrenches, accumulated over decades. They all work about the same.
-soma5
-soma5
#14
Getting older and slower
Joined: Apr 2008
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From: Silicon Valley, CA, USA
Bikes: Beat-up commuter, Chumba XCL for the dirt
I steer clear of the ball end Allen wrenches. I always shear them off. I'll have some T-handles at some point, but for now it's "only" sockets, Gorilla Grip folding, and the odd loose L-type when the others are too awkward for the job.
#15
Elitist Troglodyte
Joined: Jun 2006
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From: Dallas
Bikes: 03 Raleigh Professional (steel)
For adjusting cable clamps I really like the Park Tools triple 4-5-6mm wrench.
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Stupidity got us into this mess - why can't it get us out?
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#16
Your mom

Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 2,545
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Oh yeah, the Y wrench is really handy.
If you just want one set, I'd get ball ends on L levers. The short arm of the L should be non-ball, which you'll use when you really want to honk on something. Ball ends definitely wear out faster, though. In which case you dremel off the ends and have a set of slightly shorter non-ball-ends.
If you just want one set, I'd get ball ends on L levers. The short arm of the L should be non-ball, which you'll use when you really want to honk on something. Ball ends definitely wear out faster, though. In which case you dremel off the ends and have a set of slightly shorter non-ball-ends.
#17
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2005
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From: Oklahoma
Bikes: Trek 5500, Colnago C-50
I have a set of Snap On "L" handle Allen wrenches that are balled on the long side and straight on the short side. They seem to work well for a lot of bike applications.
Al
Al
#20
Senior Member

Joined: Mar 2004
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From: La Verne CA
Bikes: Litespeed Liege, Motorola Team Issue Eddy Mercxk, Santana Noventa Tandem, Fisher Supercaliber Mtn. Bike
save some money and get both end types and both metric & sae from harbor freight..
https://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=92527
https://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=92527
#21
cat person
Joined: Feb 2008
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From: N.W. Michigan
Bikes: Nashbar Race SIS (1987), Kestrel Talon (2007), Trek Fuel EX 9.5 (2007)
I have the full set of metric and SAE Stanley allen keys, and they are straight cut at the short end, and ball at the long end.
The ball is very handy for off-axis access to hex bolt heads when you can't get straight at them (think of spots like the allen bolt for a rear brake caliper on some bikes with a tight spacing between the rear triangle and seat tube.)
I'd go ball end if they are L-keys that offer both ball and straight.
The ball is very handy for off-axis access to hex bolt heads when you can't get straight at them (think of spots like the allen bolt for a rear brake caliper on some bikes with a tight spacing between the rear triangle and seat tube.)
I'd go ball end if they are L-keys that offer both ball and straight.





