kmcrawford111

How do you guys put grease on threads - do you cover the entire length of the threads all the way around, just put some on the end (that goes in first), or in a line down the length of the threads? Which is the best method without wasting grease?

bkaapcke

Why would anyone fool around with a 25 yo bike anyway? Their Significant Other should tell them to stop. bk

tekknoschtev

All of the instructional videos I've seen indicate that you should put on a thin layer with some sort of brush.

cudak888 

Don't start knocking the C&V'ers now

-Kurt

DMF 

I just dab some around the threads up at the nose. It will get spread out as the fastener is treaded in. Long bolts I dab some part way up too. How much is mostly a matter of experience. For dry or new threads I'll run it all the way in then back it out and check for coverage. Experts recommend that a new bolt be torqued once, then backed out and re-torqued for best accuracy (probably to condition the threads). I'm not that always anal on bikes but it's a good habit to get into.

cudak888 

Incidentally, thought I'd relay this story, for the "grease + age = useless" nay-sayers.

I had to extract a steel binder bolt from a poorly cared-for, surface oxidized, 15+ year-old aluminum stem yesterday. Came out like butter, and no wonder - a glob of nice, fresh grease was sitting at the tip, while the rest of the grease sat in a thin film around the threads, as clean and neat as you could ever ask for. The grease did its job.

So much for the bull theory that grease doesn't last.

-Kurt

kmcrawford111

Thanks. I work as an electronics tech in a steel plate mill, and since starting to learn to to work on bikes in earnst and reading Zinn & The Art of Mountain Bike Maintenance I have started to put grease on fasteners on the job as well. You wouldn't believe how bound up even small fasteners can get in the dirty, corrosive environment I work in. I keep a small container of multi-purpose grease in my tool pouch, and where appropriate, dip the end of the fasteners in before driving it in. This is a nice clean and fast method. I also carry a rag to wipe the threads off first.

melville

I have a 1957 VW where every time I have to work on it, it's a joy, because the previous mechanics (I've had the car 20 years, so it's mostly me now) greased any fasteners on reassembly for anything they worked on. I had a 1975 VW on which I learned how to use a torch to get stuck fasteners out, because none of the previous mechanics gave a $#!+. I don't have the 75 anymore.

Yes the grease lasts. 50 years and counting.

cudak888 

Bravo!

-Kurt

rideorglide

Depends what you mean fool around. Fool around as in ride, or fool around as in wrench? Post this on a vintage bike thread and see how long you live. ;-)

Mind you, while I am fine working on my own modern bike creation (c 2008), I steer well clear of any serious wrenching on my vintage bike (c 1984) outside of maintenance -- that I leave to the LBS who have old tools and the experience with these things.

San Rensho 

There really should be a warning for grave digging old threads. I get half way through it before I realize I'm reading something that is eons old.

JohnDThompson 

Grease is oil with a thickening agent added (often lithium based). Anti-seize is grease with metal flakes added to make it conductive (prevents electrolytic galling).

Wanderer

I like Bowman anti sieze, but it ain't cheap.

Grease is for moving parts, anti seize is for non moving parts. One of the main ingredients in most ainti seize compounds, moly, will continue to "lubricate" even if dry.

Good news though, a can will last a very long time. The one I have is probably 25 years old and still going strong. I use it on car, truck, motorcycle, bikes, anything I happen to be wrenching on. Just paint it on with a flux brush, or the brush in cap. Don't need much!

bkaapcke

In an effort to reduce all that praying, I will grease. Leave the swearing as it is; an often effective second step. bk
Tongue in cheek? Moi? Non!

unterhausen

I have always used grease. Is anti-seize really up to the task of being used on a bicycle? The stuff I have is pretty thin. I can see it working a long time on threads, but maybe not on a stem. I recently took a stem out that had been used for 25 years, and it wasn't easy. But that was on my racing bike, I imagine it has seen some sweat over the years.

Panthers007

I recently had to remove a freewheel from an old bike of mine that had been in storage for 25 (yes - 25!) years. It came off rather easily. I examined the hub and freewheel. There was the grease I'd used back then - still nice & slippery. It was a Teflon-based grease.

I thanked myself.

Hawaiiwrench

Ask a Specialized rep about Hawai'i (and particularly Kailua) corrosion issues. We are legendary apparently.
"Grease is cheap, frozen parts are not."
I use cheap Lithium grease for most assembly, dipping in every bolt tip including water-bottle bolts and nice Tri-flow grease for bearings.
Anti-seize, Ti-prep and carbon assembly paste are all well worth their initial cost for the peace of mind.

A well greased part will come off decades later.

mike_s

For both aviation (FAA) and all of the automotive service manuals (which I've ever seen), it is by far most common for torque specs to assume "clean, dry" threads unless otherwise specified.

FAA Advisory Circular 43.13-1B, Chapter 7, 7-40b - "Be sure the bolt and nut threads are
clean and dry, unless otherwise specified by the manufacturer."

If someone has access to SAE J1701, it would be interesting to see what it says. I suspect it gives both dry and lubricated torques.

Here's a US Military HUMMER maintenance manual, which states "Torque values listed are based on clean and dry threads. Reduce torque by 10% when engine oil is used as a lubricant."

Here's one for 2.5 ton trucks: "based on use of clean and dry threads"

Jeep manual: "Note that torque specifications given in the chart are based on use of clean and dry threads."

Kawasaki motorcycle: "The Kawasaki torque specifications listed in the manual are for clean, dry threads (unless specified differently in the text)."

Aprilia electric bike: "Unless otherwise specified, tightening torques are given for clean, dry threads at room temperature."

I would have included more "bike" like references, but it seems bike manufacturers don't specify one way or the other (although I found one which said to use the same torque for either dry or lubricated!)

Panthers007

I, for one, think it's okay to resurrect an old thread - if one has relevant, new information to contribute to what one would find if they did use 'Search.'

wrk101

+1 I bought a really dirty 25 year old Lotus at a thrift store. I was pleasantly surprised once I cleaned it up that internally, the frame still had a nice coating of framesaver on it. It looked like the bike had been very well maintained for many years, then sat neglected. So to the former owner wherever he may be, thanks for protecting the frame from rust!

shea2812

It is all in the metals used I think. Generally the more expensive a bike is, the better the materials used. This lead to less stucked posts & bolts. I have had to throw away many of the low end frames just because of that. A jammed seat post means the bike is stucked at one size. I am in the 'bike-recycling' business..

Basil Moss

Copper grease is great as anti-seize, and very thick as well, I don't expect to see it disappearing any time soon. But failing that, just use the thickest grease you've got, anything is better than nothing.

fixedmonkey

-10

The farmers around where I live don't have any bearings in their wheel barrels. Its just and axle and grease, and the wheel barrels are like 25 years old at least.

PunctualAlex

As far as thread necromancy goes, this was a pretty harmless/informative one. I'll be picking up some anti-seize on the way home to complement the grease/lube contingent at my house.

thesmokingman

Is it bad if I enjoy doing that too?