I've currently got a 6 spd 2-notch Suntour freewheel that I'd like to upgrade to Nashbar's 7 spd splined freewheel. my question: Will my hub accept a splined freewheel? I don't know anything about how the freewheels go on, so if someone could explain, I would appreciate it.
Thanks!

Yep. They're all threaded the same. Crank off old freewheel (cursing all the way), crank on new one. If you're going to do it yourself, read up on the multitude of methods.

Splined freewheel?

I've got about the smae thing going, time to freshen up the drivetrain. I've read a few sources that say I can swap the 7 speed in place of the six without a problem, this thread appears to back that up?

Is the freewheel availible at the less expensive on line dealers (Performance, Nashbar) of decent quality, or am I better off to spend the extra bucks for the IRD?

Thanks, hope this is not a hijack, seemed to be relevant to the OP's question.

I think he means a shimano style removal tool instead of the suntour 2 notch.

I recently read up on this as I'm consider a 6->7 speed freewheel conversion for my 12-speeds. As usual, there's a good description at the Harris Cyclery site. I highly recommend a visit there.

As I recall, a Shimano 7-speed freewheel is $20. You'll also want the Park 2-notch freewheel tool. And something to brace it in to spin the freewheel off the hub.

Shimano still makes a 14x28 7-speed freewheel but that's about the only current production. You may be able to find other configurations as NOS items if you make the rounds of bike shops. Nashbar sells a wider variety of 7-speed freewheels made by Sun Race. These are ok but the Shimano is better.

When removing a Sun Tour freewheel, particularly a 2-notch one, clamp the remover tool firmly in place with the qr skewer or the axle nut and use a BIG wrench or clamp the remover in a vise and use the wheel itself as the turning lever. Start loosening the qr or nut AS SOON AS the freewheel begins to break loose.

I'm doing this also. The notches/splines in the freewheel body have nothing to do with the attachment to the hub, just removal. All freewheels thread onto the rear hub, and are tightened by pedaling. Unless you have an old French or Italian bike, any freewheel will have the same threads as yours. It will probably take a LOT of effort. Be sure to install an axle nut or QR skewer to hold the removal tool in place as you break the old freewheel loose. Don't forget to loosen the nut/skewer as you unthread the freewheel. The new freewheel threads back on hand tight. It will tighten more in use.

I'm not familiar with the Nashbar unit. I just ordered a NOS Suntour Ultra 7 to replace my original 6-speed. Holding them up to each other, the 7-speed is 1-2mm wider than the 6-speed, but it looks like it will fit. My bike has 126mm rear dropouts, which are probably the minimum for this swap. Hope this helped.

Regards,
John.

Where did you order the Suntour ultra 7 from?

I know I'm going to need a washer to be able to reach the cog furthest to the right. what type of washer do I use? Are there special kinds for axles? And where do I get them?

thanks

"Where did you order the Suntour ultra 7 from?"

FYI

www.loosescrews.com

Shimano HG 7 14-28 $23.35
Shimano Uniglide 7 custom 13 to 34, you pick'em, $52.95

Ebay. Depending upon the cog selection, they're running anywhere from $25 to $80 for NOS units. Unfortunately, the wide ratio ones like I want are on the $80 end. I ended up getting a 12-34 freewheel in one auction and a couple of extra cogs in another. I rebuilt it as a 12-30. Now if my new chain will show up I can try it out.

Regards,
John.

It doesn't need to be anything special. As long as the ID is big enough to fit over the axle and the OD is small enough not to interfere with the freewheel, it should be fine. If you're going to go buy one just for this, you might as well get a stainless one.

Regards,
John.

I put my new freewheel on tonight. I ended up using a nominal 5/16" washer. I had to drill out the ID to fit over the 10mm axle, but it works fine. A 3/8" washer was too big on the OD, preventing the axle from seating properly in the rear dropout.

Though this works, I will probably change it. The drive side axle now only protrudes by about half of the dropout thickness. When I get more time, I'll probably adjust the axle to the right to even it out for peace of mind. While I have the axle nuts loose, I'll put the washer under them so that I don't have to worry about it falling off next time I remove the wheel. Yes, I know I'm anal.

Regards,
John.