Removing Chanrings for Newbies
#1
Thread Starter
Newbie

Joined: Jan 2004
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Removing Chanrings for Newbies
I mostly only use the front big chainring. Looking to convert the triple cranset to a single chanring. How to do this? Do I only need spacers/washers after removing the 2 chainrings or do I need a whole new crank/spindle? What kind of spacers or spindle would I need. Can I completely remove the front derailleur when only using a single chainring? I think they are STX BB and White Industries crank (or so I was told). Any help/advise greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.........
#2
Senior Member


Joined: Jan 2004
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From: Madison, WI USA
Are you looking to save weight big-time? If not, just remove the front derailleur, hang the chain on the big chainring, and Bob's your uncle. At least you have the option of stopping and hanging the chain on the other chainrings when circumstances might call for it. Otherwise, I'm not sure if the nuts will bottom out properly when you thread the bolts just thru the spider and one chainring. Your best bet is just to try it.
There should be no problem, though, with just removing the front derailleur. It has no effect on chain tension or length the way the rear derailleur does.
There should be no problem, though, with just removing the front derailleur. It has no effect on chain tension or length the way the rear derailleur does.
#3
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Joined: Oct 2002
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From: Medway, MA
Bikes: 2011 Lynskey Sportive, 1988 Cannondale SM400
You can either get shorter chainring bolts, or put a spacer the same thickness as the chainring behind the spider, where the middle ring would usually be.
#5
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From: Madison, WI USA
I don't see why. The front derailleur doesn't do anything to keep the chain on. It's kept on by the tension maintained by the rear derailleur. The bike becomes essentially a rear-only-shifted rig, like the original 5-speeds, and some current 7- and 8-speeds. There's nothing on such bikes needed to keep the chain on the chainring.
#6
Get a set of BMX chainring bolts. And since you'll be using the entire range of your rear cassette, mount the big chainring where the middle one used to be so your chainline won't be too extreme when using your largest rear cog.
George
George
#7
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Joined: Jul 2002
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The prologue to the 2003 Tour de France was lost because a chain jumped off the chainring while using a single-ring setup with no front derailler. If you're going to use a single-ring setup, keep the derailler on. It won't look as pretty, but it'll keep your chain from jumping.
#10
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Joined: May 2003
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From: Perth Western Australia
Bikes: Niner SIR9 with Rohloff. Whyte PRST4, Specialized M2 stumpjumper
I agree with madpogue re just removing the front derailleur. When I built up my bike I didn't bother with it or the granny ring and frankly don't miss them 99% of the time. If you do go for a single ring then mounting in the middle as fixer suggested sounds like a smart move
#11
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Joined: Jan 2004
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From: Madison, WI USA
Originally Posted by roadbuzz
I agree with The Fixer... the big-ring chainline is biased toward the small cogs in the regular position. Move it to the middle.
#12
Fore-
99.99999% people are NOT racing in the prologue of the Tour de France.
I ride without a front derailleur and it is not a single speed. I have a 6 spd in the rear and I haven't had any problems with the chain coming off. I do ride with the granny gear instead of the big chainring, I don't know if that has anything to do with the chain staying on.
Still, front derailleur does not keep the chain on the rings, it just "derailleurs it"
Miyataphile
99.99999% people are NOT racing in the prologue of the Tour de France.
I ride without a front derailleur and it is not a single speed. I have a 6 spd in the rear and I haven't had any problems with the chain coming off. I do ride with the granny gear instead of the big chainring, I don't know if that has anything to do with the chain staying on.
Still, front derailleur does not keep the chain on the rings, it just "derailleurs it"
Miyataphile
#14
Senior Member

Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 12,948
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From: England
Modern chains are quite flexible side-to-side. Ive used a 1x5 setup and had to fit an old front mech to act as a chain-keeper. It stops the chain bouncing from side to side, and falling off the ring.
Mount the single ring in the position of the middle ring. This will give the best chainline, but the downside is that your pedals are father apart than they need to be. The pedal-to-pedal distance (sometimes called Q), should be a narrow as you can comfortably ride, to make your position much more aerodynamic.
When it is time to replace your bottom bracket unit, consider fitting a shorter spindle, and put the ring in the outer position.
Mount the single ring in the position of the middle ring. This will give the best chainline, but the downside is that your pedals are father apart than they need to be. The pedal-to-pedal distance (sometimes called Q), should be a narrow as you can comfortably ride, to make your position much more aerodynamic.
When it is time to replace your bottom bracket unit, consider fitting a shorter spindle, and put the ring in the outer position.






