Chain lubrication/oil?
03-11-04, 09:58 PM
#76
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Originally Posted by HarryK
. The LBS guy rides/races about 10K miles/yr, and said he replaces his chains about every 1000 miles, He replaces 10 chains, then replaces the cassette and chainrings at 10K miles.
So what your telling us here is that a tire will out last 2 chains? Maybe we need to make chains out of tire material instead of steel, tire material seems to last longer!
I think someone is yanking your chain!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
03-12-04, 08:34 AM
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Originally Posted by froze
EVERY 1,000 MILES? Heck why bother spending the money of lube if the chain is only going to last that long! Or just buy the cheapest lube you can find at Walmart, lube it once and forget about it. That is very excessive. I use to race as well and when I did I still averaged 15,000 miles on a chain...and yes every 10 chain changes I replaced the freewheel BUT THAT WAS AT ABOUT 135,000 MILES, and I still haven't replaced the chainrings and they have over 140,000 miles. The least amount of miles I got out of a chain was about 6,000 and that was because I tried those wax based crap lubes.
So what your telling us here is that a tire will out last 2 chains? Maybe we need to make chains out of tire material instead of steel, tire material seems to last longer!
I think someone is yanking your chain!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
So what your telling us here is that a tire will out last 2 chains? Maybe we need to make chains out of tire material instead of steel, tire material seems to last longer!
I think someone is yanking your chain!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
He did a fine job of rebuilding my Ultegra hubs last spring, and has many years of experience building up C'dale frames with high-end components, so I do listen and consider his advice....but have to remember he's a salesman.
03-12-04, 02:58 PM
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It may depend on how you ride. I've always read that if you measure twelve "full" links, that's 12 inches, and it's 1/16" or more past the 12" mark, then it's "stretched" (okay, not really stretched) to the point of replacement. (That works out to a 1:180 ratio, or about 1/2%, BTW) If you get 6000 or 10,000 (or 15,000) miles before that, good. I've never had to replace a chain at 1000 miles. I honestly haven't paid that close attention, but it's probably closer to 2000-3000. It probably varies with the type of bike as well.
I think of chains as a wear-out item, like tires. Which one I replace more often is more a function of circumstance. But given that, I usually just shoot a trickle of Liquid Wrench with Teflon (light blue can, as cheap as WD-40, but contains Teflon) on the chain every time I hear it get a little loud, feel it get a little sluggish, or see it get a little dry.
I think of chains as a wear-out item, like tires. Which one I replace more often is more a function of circumstance. But given that, I usually just shoot a trickle of Liquid Wrench with Teflon (light blue can, as cheap as WD-40, but contains Teflon) on the chain every time I hear it get a little loud, feel it get a little sluggish, or see it get a little dry.
03-14-04, 05:49 PM
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Originally Posted by leilin
Dear folks I have seen to many arguments on the lube of the chain. My experiences in Austin TX (yes, home town of Lance Amstrong), though, is to use one part of heavy oil (SAE 75W90, the clutch oil), three part camp fuel and one part of wax, mix them together and resolve wax as much as possible (it may take one day or so)
reasons of this formula, in order to lube the chain, the lubricant has to penetrate into the small crevices on the chain, the thicker the lubricant, the better (because thicker lubricant stays inside small places better), but clutch oil could not penetrate into small places, that is the reason to use three parts of camp fuel (they are thin and easy to evapporate). Once the oil gets into the chain, the camp fuel evaporates and leaves you perfect thick oil lubricants plus wax (I believe this is better than any brand on the market, My backgroud is Engineer with a BS in EE and PhD in Chemical Engineering)
form the 1st or 2nd ride, I did pick up some grits from the roads, I simply wipe them off (took one or two minutes), after these two wipe offs, you are looking at 500 miles or more riding without even look at it (I lube the chain depents on my feeling after 500 miles most of the time it was longer than 500 miles or after the bike was soaked in the rain). After that I take off the chain and clearn it (follow Sheldon Brown's receip), By the way I am riding cheap bike with steel freewheel and steel chain (bike from Acedmy and chain from Walmart), the chain and freewheel has lasted 5000 miles already.
reasons of this formula, in order to lube the chain, the lubricant has to penetrate into the small crevices on the chain, the thicker the lubricant, the better (because thicker lubricant stays inside small places better), but clutch oil could not penetrate into small places, that is the reason to use three parts of camp fuel (they are thin and easy to evapporate). Once the oil gets into the chain, the camp fuel evaporates and leaves you perfect thick oil lubricants plus wax (I believe this is better than any brand on the market, My backgroud is Engineer with a BS in EE and PhD in Chemical Engineering)
form the 1st or 2nd ride, I did pick up some grits from the roads, I simply wipe them off (took one or two minutes), after these two wipe offs, you are looking at 500 miles or more riding without even look at it (I lube the chain depents on my feeling after 500 miles most of the time it was longer than 500 miles or after the bike was soaked in the rain). After that I take off the chain and clearn it (follow Sheldon Brown's receip), By the way I am riding cheap bike with steel freewheel and steel chain (bike from Acedmy and chain from Walmart), the chain and freewheel has lasted 5000 miles already.
03-14-04, 06:25 PM
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Originally Posted by beowoulfe
Hey leilin......I also would like to know more about the parifin addition to the formula!!!!
Would it be paraffin lamp oil? That stuff seems to be a lot like White Lightning.
03-14-04, 08:56 PM
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Hi beowoulfe
I don't know of the type of the wax, when I was in Walmart, I saw in the kindle section there was a bag of wax, I believe that I used just the kindle wax. I scribe the wax into small pieces and put them in the mixture of Clutch oil and camp fuel (1:3), put enough amount, the wax will not totally disolve, that is OK just let them sit on the bottom.
I ride Mongoose Crossway, 2001, it has plain steel chainring and freewheel, the milage is around 8000 miles, I changed chain when the milage hits 6000 miles.
to ehenz
the main lube is clutch oil, the thinner is camp FUEL from Walmart, Hi I am a Walmart Guy.
regards
I don't know of the type of the wax, when I was in Walmart, I saw in the kindle section there was a bag of wax, I believe that I used just the kindle wax. I scribe the wax into small pieces and put them in the mixture of Clutch oil and camp fuel (1:3), put enough amount, the wax will not totally disolve, that is OK just let them sit on the bottom.
I ride Mongoose Crossway, 2001, it has plain steel chainring and freewheel, the milage is around 8000 miles, I changed chain when the milage hits 6000 miles.
to ehenz
the main lube is clutch oil, the thinner is camp FUEL from Walmart, Hi I am a Walmart Guy.
regards
03-16-04, 11:45 AM
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Thanks, leilin. I'm going to try that. I've just been using Syntec motor oil. Guess it works OK, I've got 7700 miles on the chain and no appreciable stretch. But then, I have a VERY long chain.
04-26-04, 10:11 AM
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What about GUNK White Lithium Grease? I've never actually used it on my chain, but I was wondering if I should try. It sprays on as a liquid and sets up as a whitish thin lubricating grease. I use it on my seatpost, cables and clipless pedals, as well as under the cap of my handlebars.
I ride in the wet a lot and the White Lithium seems to hold up well in those parts, but they're not under continuous friction.
I ride in the wet a lot and the White Lithium seems to hold up well in those parts, but they're not under continuous friction.
04-26-04, 07:12 PM
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I use motor 15W motor oil mixed with Mineral Spirits most of the time. When I get a new bike or a new chain I use Rock n' Roll or TriFlo. Then after the honeymoon is over ... anything goes.
On bikes that spend alot of time outside I use Lubrimatic Corrosion Pro. It's an industrial marine spray grease. Great for winter and coastal weather conditions.
On bikes that spend alot of time outside I use Lubrimatic Corrosion Pro. It's an industrial marine spray grease. Great for winter and coastal weather conditions.
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04-27-04, 04:08 AM
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Originally Posted by forum*rider
I use White Lightning on my chain. Its a liquid with teflon wax in it. When you use it to grease the chain the liquid evaporates and leaves a thin coating of teflon wax.
04-27-04, 08:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Wiswell
What about GUNK White Lithium Grease? I've never actually used it on my chain, but I was wondering if I should try. It sprays on as a liquid and sets up as a whitish thin lubricating grease. I use it on my seatpost, cables and clipless pedals, as well as under the cap of my handlebars.
I ride in the wet a lot and the White Lithium seems to hold up well in those parts, but they're not under continuous friction.
I ride in the wet a lot and the White Lithium seems to hold up well in those parts, but they're not under continuous friction.
04-27-04, 09:39 AM
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Originally Posted by seely
Why don't you just use Elmer's glue as a lube? Seriously, its literally glue for dirt, and good luck ever getting it clean again.
05-06-04, 09:36 PM
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The correct and most efficient way to lube a chain is to apply the lube of your choice to the chain either by drops on each link roller or spray while slowly back pedaling. Let the lube sit for a minute and them wipe off all the excess lube from the chain until it is near dry. Lube does absolutly nothing on the outside of the chain for performance. You want the lube in the rollers. The only thing that excess lube does is attract more dirt and quickly creates a dirty gritty chain.
As far as lubes go, any major brand is good as long as you follow a strict maintenance schedule. A chain that is well taken care of should, under ideal conditions and regular maintenance, should last up to 2000 miles before needing a new chain.
Watch the sales and stock up. I always keep three chains on hand for changing.
Note: Never use any lube that is vegitable based; i.e. 3-in-1 and a couple of others. Veg based lubes have a tendancy to gum.
Good day and have a great ride this weekend.
As far as lubes go, any major brand is good as long as you follow a strict maintenance schedule. A chain that is well taken care of should, under ideal conditions and regular maintenance, should last up to 2000 miles before needing a new chain.
Watch the sales and stock up. I always keep three chains on hand for changing.
Note: Never use any lube that is vegitable based; i.e. 3-in-1 and a couple of others. Veg based lubes have a tendancy to gum.
Good day and have a great ride this weekend.
05-06-04, 10:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Wiswell
Huh? This is an aerosol that sprays on; it's lighter than regular grease (plus where I currently use it the fact that is white allows me to see when it's time to clean again).
05-07-04, 12:33 AM
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I know I came in a little late in this discussion but don't think I ever saw any mention of Phil Wood Tenacious Oil. I've been using it for years on road and mountain bikes and have never been disappointed. I lubricate each link individually (to avoid the cleanup mess). Spin the crank a couple of revolutions to let it sink in and then use a clean rag to run the chain through and it's that easy. You will end up with a black chain in no time if you fail to clean the excess oil off the chain. Cool green color.
05-07-04, 01:32 AM
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Originally Posted by spinbackle
I know I came in a little late in this discussion but don't think I ever saw any mention of Phil Wood Tenacious Oil.
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05-08-04, 10:00 PM
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I too have used the Phil Wood Tenacious oil for chain lubrication. You hit it right on the head about removing the excess to avoid a nasty chain. Phil does an excellent job on chains. I still prefer Rock-n-Roll lube over anything on the market but Phil will do the job with just a little more mess.
Originally Posted by spinbackle
I know I came in a little late in this discussion but don't think I ever saw any mention of Phil Wood Tenacious Oil. I've been using it for years on road and mountain bikes and have never been disappointed. I lubricate each link individually (to avoid the cleanup mess). Spin the crank a couple of revolutions to let it sink in and then use a clean rag to run the chain through and it's that easy. You will end up with a black chain in no time if you fail to clean the excess oil off the chain. Cool green color.
11-23-09, 04:47 PM
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Just a newbie but I'll stick my neck out. You guys seem to go pretty easy on greenhorns. I use silicon spray because it makes my garage door run smooth for 3 or 4 months. With all this talk about additives, the need for penatration, solvents, regular cleaning, etc., it makes me feel I have to be doing it all wrong. So am I facing diseaster when I continue to use silicon? I should add that I have the common sense to know that when the chain gets dirty, it needs cleaning. So I really like someone's suggestion to use WD-40 and then wipe the chain semi-dry.
11-23-09, 06:29 PM
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i use the same stuff i use for my ducati chain, kerosene in a spray bottle to clean the chain, wipe dry and apply dupont teflon dry lube from a puff can from lowes or home depot.
11-23-09, 06:48 PM
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Just a newbie but I'll stick my neck out. You guys seem to go pretty easy on greenhorns. I use silicon spray because it makes my garage door run smooth for 3 or 4 months. With all this talk about additives, the need for penatration, solvents, regular cleaning, etc., it makes me feel I have to be doing it all wrong. So am I facing diseaster when I continue to use silicon? I should add that I have the common sense to know that when the chain gets dirty, it needs cleaning. So I really like someone's suggestion to use WD-40 and then wipe the chain semi-dry.
11-23-09, 06:52 PM
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I like White Lightning. Been using it for years exclusively without any problem. It works, while being relatively clean. Some engineering types might argue that wax isn't the best lubricant for chains or anything else, but it's good enough for its intended purpose as far as I'm concerned. In the old days, I used to take the chain off the bike, clean it in a solvent, and then dip it in a can of melted wax. With WL, I don't have to do that.
Now, I do know it doesn't apply well in colder weather, but I always lube my bike indoors anyway. I also don't mind reapplying it after riding in rain, since there's really nothing to it and it's not messy.
Now, I do know it doesn't apply well in colder weather, but I always lube my bike indoors anyway. I also don't mind reapplying it after riding in rain, since there's really nothing to it and it's not messy.
11-23-09, 07:01 PM
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I'll answer just to irritate the operator, I use oil. If I ride in heavy rain I'll spray with WD40 and wipe it down then in the morning use oil.
11-23-09, 09:41 PM
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I must have the only honest LBS in the country. I once asked the owner what lube to use. He said that just about anything would work well, but he would be happy to sell me some high-priced, high-profit snake oil if that was what I wanted.
