ncherry

How long are the saddle rails expected to last? I've had my Brooks Pro (?) pre-softened, maybe, for five years but it's been on #2 (not my primary bike). I have about 15K miles on the seat. Today while riding it the rails snapped and I was left sitting on my seat awkwardly. The odd thing is that my other Pro which was on my primary bike has beat up leather, the broken one has perfect leather (argh!). So how long do the average saddle rails last?

This wouldn't be too bad as I have B-17 waiting in the wings but I need to break it in by next Sunday (a century) or use the other Pro. I'm leaning towards the Pro right now.

grinningfool

You should be able to get it fixed, though not in time for your century next weekend. Replacement parts are available through the Brooks website. They may even replace the broken rail under waranty.

rmfnla

For what those things cost they better fix it under warranty!

Only the British could make something so heavy and so expensive that would fail so pathetically (can you tell I've owned British cars?).

I'm surprised thay haven't found a way to make it leak oil!

ncherry

Not covered by warranty, they only cover for two years. I'm certain the saddle is older than two years. The frame is available is as a spare part but how do I get my saddle off the broken frame to the good frame? If I have to ship it back the end cost is probably about the same as a new saddle.

G piny parnas

ive said this before-- brooks makes my butt hurt--- and they break---and i dont like them--
they are not as good as they appear to be and are you going to eat that salad?

GV27

I wonder why mine hasn't broken in 25 years?

ncherry

Your not enough of a fat ... uhm skip that.

I don't know why these broke either. The older Brooks held up to 5+ years of abuse so it's not Brooks in general. Looks like I'll be using the older saddle as I can't find where I put the new B-17 (argh!). I was leaning that way anyway as I'd still have to break it in. I figure I'll probably only have 120 miles before Sunday's century and I'm not sure that's enough. I am going to save up for a new Pro. I like the saddle too much and it fits me perfectly. I broke-in the last two in less than 50 miles each. All the other saddles I've tried have taken much longer to get used to riding with.

Bacciagalupe

Rails are rails are rails.... They can break on any saddle. Could be a manufacturing defect, or maybe it got hit too hard one day.

I'd go with the Pro, using "beat up leather" shouldn't be a problem if it's only cosmetic issues. The new B17 might be OK, but if it's too harsh you will not have fun on the century.

Wallingford Bikes may either have tips, or offer a service, of replacing the rails.

ncherry

I found the B-17 and I put it on the bike, I'll see how well it work on the next 3 rides. Worse comes to worse I switch to the old Pro. It'll only take a few minutes to swap.

Thanks for the information on the rails, I'll check Wallingford. I want to keep the Pro. I will be ordering a new one eventually as I really like the Pro and I'm short one saddle (I have a fancy saddle that came with the Giant TCR, it's on my Truk).

I actually figured that the rail break was just wear, it was weird that it was on the 'low mileage' Pro as opposed to the beat up high mileage Pro.

Again, thanks.

unterhausen

these are steel rails, correct? Impressive.

cascade168

Absolutely correct. One thing that I have noticed about every broken rail that I have seen is that the saddle is positioned either all the way forward or all the way backward on the rails. If you tighten the clamp at a point where the saddle rail starts to bend up you are asking for it to fail.

Keep the clamp on the flat section of the rails.

A lot of this is about getting a bike that fits you properly, or, getting your bike fitted to you properly. Saddle postion is an important part of this.

ncherry

As an added point of data, my saddle was pushed all the way back, the section of rails that broke is the rear section.

I tend to like my Brooks saddles very nose down (the B17 not as much as the Pro) and I use the whole saddle. I use the lower nose when I want to really spin. I sit further back but not all the way back most of the time and furthest back when i want to use different muscles in my legs. I'd say that I spent most of my time ridding putting a lot of pressure on the back of the saddle.

Would you suggest that I get a longer stem and move the saddle more middle?

Thanks

ncherry

A quick note, I found the B-17 and I have it on my bike. I commuted yesterday by bike (40 miles RT) and the saddle is comfortable. It's still very slick and I think I need to bring it nose down by a notch. On the ride home I was a little uncomfortable but not in the places I thought I would be (not where I normally get my saddle sores). I think it was because it's still slick and I was sliding a bit. Next test is tomorrow as I have a 40 - 50 mile ride. If I'm not comfortable after that ride the older Pro will be swapped onto the bike for Sunday's Century. This won't be permanent as I have to break in the B-17.

So far I've been very surprised at how soft the B-17 actually is. It feels like a rock when you knock on it but sitting on it it feels comfortable. A new Pro is also hard and it's leather thick but no where near the thickness/hardness of the new B-17. So far I am impressed with the B-17 (even after owning two Pros).

cascade168

I'm not a professional fitter, but what you say is probably the correct solution. I DO recommend you discuss the problem with someone who is a pro fitter. If you can't get a comfortable solution where the saddle is not slid all the way to the bend in the rails, then something is wrong.

The other simple solution may be a seatpost with a setback bend in it.