V-brakes driving me nuts.
#1
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V-brakes driving me nuts.
I'm trying to adjust my brakes. If I lift my front wheel off the ground and spin it, I hear a "whoosh........whoosh" sound which I believe may be coming from my brake pad touching the wheel. I keep adjusting them, but every time I seem to have it ride with enough space between the pads and the wheel, one of them becomes closer to the wheel eventually. I already put the arms in the top hole to add more spring tension.
#2
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From: A Coffin Called Earth. or Toronto, ON
Bikes: Bianchi, Miyata, Dahon, Rossin
did you check that the brake bosses aren't rusted and did you grease them up properly?
do the arms spin freely on the studs without the return spring?
also take a pair of nippers and cut the mold overflow tyre fuzz on the side walls.
do the arms spin freely on the studs without the return spring?
also take a pair of nippers and cut the mold overflow tyre fuzz on the side walls.
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Food for thought: if you aren't dead by 2050, you and your entire family will be within a few years from starvation. Now that is a cruel gift to leave for your offspring. ;)
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Food for thought: if you aren't dead by 2050, you and your entire family will be within a few years from starvation. Now that is a cruel gift to leave for your offspring. ;)
https://sanfrancisco.ibtimes.com/arti...ger-photos.htm
#3
cab horn

Joined: Jun 2004
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From: Toronto
Bikes: 1987 Bianchi Campione
Spring tension doesn't affect the spring tension balance between the two arms. You need to individualy adjust both arms so that they pull equally.
The other consideration is that your wheel is also out of true. Wheel needs to be adequately true before any brake adjustment, otherwise it's just a waste of time.
The other consideration is that your wheel is also out of true. Wheel needs to be adequately true before any brake adjustment, otherwise it's just a waste of time.
#5
Look on the lower part of each brake-arm above the brake-pads. Do you see a small screw there on each side? This adjusts the spring-tension. The pad that's too close/rubbing the rim - on that side tighten that screw by 1/4 turn. On the opposite brake-arm - loosen that screw 1/4 turn. Check the centering again. Continue to adjust in this way - experiment - until it's working as good as possible.
Hope this helps you.
Hope this helps you.
#6
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Look on the lower part of each brake-arm above the brake-pads. Do you see a small screw there on each side? This adjusts the spring-tension. The pad that's too close/rubbing the rim - on that side tighten that screw by 1/4 turn. On the opposite brake-arm - loosen that screw 1/4 turn. Check the centering again. Continue to adjust in this way - experiment - until it's working as good as possible.
Hope this helps you.
Hope this helps you.
#7
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From: The 'Wack, BC, Canada
Bikes: Norco (2), Miyata, Canondale, Soma, Redline
There's an adjuster on the brake lever where you can alter the pad travel and brake lever engagement point in small amount. If you're fully in and the pads are still rubbing then you need to loosen the cable clamp screw on the one arm and let about 2 to 3mm's of cable slide through and then clamp it again.
Or the pads could be not set up so that they are angled too much, or the wheel is out of true. Just because it's a new bike that doesn't mean much depending on what it is and where you got it from.
Or the pads could be not set up so that they are angled too much, or the wheel is out of true. Just because it's a new bike that doesn't mean much depending on what it is and where you got it from.
#8
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From: Arlington VA
Bikes: 2008 Generic Carbon Frame with full Ultegra, 2007 Iron Horse Victory 3, 2007 Fuji Absolute LX, 2005 Leader LD735 with Ultegra kit
urgh. i wrote this long reply and it told me my response was long by two characters. of course it erased my response so i dont feel like writing it again. =( =(
#9
messenger
Joined: Aug 2008
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From: WLA
Bikes: pinarellos and a colnago
San Fran.?
#10
Spin Forest! Spin!
Joined: Sep 2007
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From: Arrid Zone-a
Bikes: I used to have many. And I Will again.
Your front (edited) brake cable housing could also be too long, thus adding tension against the brake arm.
Make sure the housing routes cleanly to the noodle, and that it's not all twisted. Then adjusted the spring screws to fine tune.
New doesn't mean much if it was assembled by a bunch of monkeys.
Make sure the housing routes cleanly to the noodle, and that it's not all twisted. Then adjusted the spring screws to fine tune.
New doesn't mean much if it was assembled by a bunch of monkeys.
Last edited by WNG; 10-04-08 at 12:11 AM.
#11
Guest

Joined: Jul 2008
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From: Grid Reference, SK
Bikes: I never learned to ride a bike. It is my deepest shame.
If the rim is straight and you are hearing some 'whoosh' noise then one of the pads is likely rubbing on some part of the tire - on new tires it is often the cellophane stuck over the label on the tire, or possibly, as someone else said, the little molding nubs.
If the brake pads are rubbing on any part of the tire other than a celophane sticker or molding nubs, then the pads must be adjusted before riding... a brake pad will wear through a tire very quickly and this can be very dangerous!
If the brake pads are rubbing on any part of the tire other than a celophane sticker or molding nubs, then the pads must be adjusted before riding... a brake pad will wear through a tire very quickly and this can be very dangerous!
#12
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From: Mesa, AZ
Bikes: Moots RCS, tandem, beach-cruiser, MTB, Specialized-Allez road-bike, custom track-bike
We can't maybe fix a problem that we're not sure about if it indeed is a problem that we think we might have.
#13
If a brake pad is contacting the tire, it'll wear through soon. The tire will go bang.
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Jeff Wills
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#14
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2007
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From: A Coffin Called Earth. or Toronto, ON
Bikes: Bianchi, Miyata, Dahon, Rossin
and no, I'm from T.O. if you look at my location.
__________________
Food for thought: if you aren't dead by 2050, you and your entire family will be within a few years from starvation. Now that is a cruel gift to leave for your offspring. ;)
https://sanfrancisco.ibtimes.com/arti...ger-photos.htm
Food for thought: if you aren't dead by 2050, you and your entire family will be within a few years from starvation. Now that is a cruel gift to leave for your offspring. ;)
https://sanfrancisco.ibtimes.com/arti...ger-photos.htm
#15
Fruit Monkey
Joined: Apr 2007
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From: Brisbane, Australia
Bikes: 1970s Apollo Jaguar road bike (undergoing restoration), 1996 Gemini Echo Beach MTB (restored and modified), 2006 Huffy Savannah Hybrid (modified)
As others have suggested, is the wheel rim true? I've had a rim out of the box that was warped so much that I'm astounded it passed QA.
#17
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From: Gainesville/Tampa, FL
Bikes: Trek 1000, two mtbs and working on a fixie for commuting.
Intermittent wooshes is more like indicative of a wheel out of true and not the brakes. Constant grinding is probably the brakes,
#18
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Ok, I bought a spoke wrench....but have yet to TRUE the wheel. I was riding tonight and when I apply my front brakes...they make a ridiculously loud screeching noise....rear brakes are silent...is this just a break-in period?
#19
You didn't mention the brand/model of brakes you have. But I can tell you of one brake that truly bite - rims and everything. These are Avid Single Digit 3's. They come stock on a bunch of Treks. Don't know about others. But they go out of adjustment just sitting there - I swear! I spent quite awhile determining it wasn't me. Did everything - loosened the cable, adjusted screws, checked wheel(s). I'd get it perfect. Go for a ride. And whooosh! Whooosh! Again & again.
Solution: Better brakes. So it might not be adjustment or wheel being true. I looked around and found lots of people complaining the same thing about the Avid SD 3. Try a Google search on your brand - you might find something helpful.
Solution: Better brakes. So it might not be adjustment or wheel being true. I looked around and found lots of people complaining the same thing about the Avid SD 3. Try a Google search on your brand - you might find something helpful.
#20
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Park tool and Sheldon Brown's web sites will tell you all you need to know about adjusting toe-in.
#21
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Greasing them is still a nice idea for future removal though.
#22
Thrifty Bill

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From: Mans of NC & SW UT Desert
Bikes: 86 Katakura Silk, 87 Prologue X2, 88 Cimarron LE, 1975 Sekai 4000 Professional, 73 Paramount, plus more
Brand new bike? Take back to the dealer and have them fix it. That is one of the few advantages of buying new.
#23
Spring tension doesn't affect the spring tension balance between the two arms. You need to individualy adjust both arms so that they pull equally.
The other consideration is that your wheel is also out of true. Wheel needs to be adequately true before any brake adjustment, otherwise it's just a waste of time.
The other consideration is that your wheel is also out of true. Wheel needs to be adequately true before any brake adjustment, otherwise it's just a waste of time.
#24
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From: Malaysia
Bikes: an old Marin
maybe it is just the quality. i prefer shimano anytime. even their low end models work all the time. Some of the chinese made stuffs that come fitted on cheaper bikes just do not work....





