Updated below 12/2/2008:

I searched the webz for a while and found only a bit of info on this subject, so I thought I would create a thread for anyone else looking to do the same thing.

Why mount a rear rack on the front?
1. Cost. Front racks are ridiculously expensive for some reason. However, the rear rack I used was $27.
2. You may want to use panniers and/or trunk bag or other stuff on the top. Most front racks are either set up for panniers or trunk bag only.

The rack I used was an Axiom Streamliner. The rack is made for bikes without rack braze ons so you can mount it on the axle/quick release. The design of the rack pushes it back (forwards in this case) about 5 inches. This is also a great rack if you are having heel strike.

The rack also comes with a metal bracket for attaching it to the caliper brake mount/holes. I didn't use it in my example since I would have probably had to bend it, and I wanted to keep it in case I ever needed to mount it on my other bike which does not have braze ons.

So, I mounted it to the front braze ons instead of the axle. This brings the rack up a few inches, which may be undesirable for some people who may want to carry larger loads. I'm being realistic about what I can use the front rack for...light loads. In the past I was carrying panniers + backpack because I bring a lot of stuff to work everyday.

I went to the hardware store and bought some stuff called Plumber's Brackets (under 2 bucks)? It comes wrapped up like tape, but it is actually quite strong, yet you can still bend it and "cut it" by hand. The cool thing about using this stuff are the notches in the material, which allow you to fine tune the position (level) of the rack. The holes are perfect sized as well for bolts that come with the rack (standard M5 I think).



Anyway, I use 2 strips of the stuff for increased support, although you could probably get away with using just 1. Like I said, the stuff is suprisingly strong. There is no wiggle whatsoever, and I would say it would be fine carrying 50+ lbs, although that might be a bit awkward.

I mounted my Topeak trunk+panniers on it, with around 10-15lbs, and it was fine. I didn't feel like I was going to tip over, but it is definitely different than riding without.

Update 12/2/2008:

With panniers:



I've been using this setup for about a month. In the front, I actually load up one side with 81oz of iced tea every morning on my ride in. There are no adverse effects, and I'm pleasantly surprised how much I can load up.

Also, the connector bracket is awesomely solid. It is way sturdier than the typical brackets you get with a cheapo rack.

I can appreciate the engineering!! Looks really good.

Damn, I've been looking for a rear rack to try this with. Then you just had to come along and do it before I ever got the chance...

Great job on being less lazy than me

Take some advice from an old paper boy. Keep the heavy part of any load, as close to the handlebars, as you are able.

I actually carried a lot of weight in my old newsboy basket (read very large,) even having friends in there from time to time.

Just try to keep the weight close.....

How can that not affect handling in a bad way? Decades ago Jim Blackburn showed that the best place for a load in the front is low and centered on the wheel.

Wow! Please try to excuse me, but that looks seriously screwed up.

Is that plumber's strapping? That stuff has ZERO out of plane stiffness. What is stopping the rack from node-diving into the wheel? Seems like it could be a serious safety issue to me.

Is the strapping running beneath the brake cable bridge? That would reduce the front braking effectiveness. Seems like it could be a serious safety issue to me.

In the words of the OP: I'm being realistic about what I can use the front rack for...light loads.
Usually in cycling there are huge margins, so the OP is probably fully capable of spending some of those on a front rack w/o any particular disadvantage. It might be prudent to give up riding no-handed with the front rack loaded though.

Don't quite understand your objection, but perhaps the original vertical supports?

It wouldn't be much worse than bikes with front fenders, or bikes with one of those straddle cable catch hooks, and they seem to do OK.

One suggestion; trim the front edge of the strapping round and file it smooth. Or, better yet, cut it off flush with the rack's cross brace. The current extended and squared off edge could cut what ever load you put on the rack. It will look more finished too.

Agreed on the first point. The stuff bends easily and could easily break. It appears that it is the only thing holding the top of the rack to the frame/fork. I would suggest looking for something else as you would not want it to fall forward while riding as that would easily cause an accident.

Running things under the brake cable should not be a problem as long as it does not come into contact with the brake gear under any circumstances. Fenders sit in that same spot and I dont think that there have been any major problems because of that.

The way the piece that attaches to the lower braze on and then goes approx 3" forward to the bottom of the rack creates a lever effect on that braze on connection which will seriously overload that 4mm bolt. Please don't ride your bike the way it is set up. Imagine what will happen when those bolts break.

If the bolts can hold a vertical force perfectly fine, why would the force coming at an angle make any difference?

The only place that sees a lever effect are the lower ends of the semi-vertical struts of the rack, which apparently would have seen the same load if mounted on the rear. I don't see an added risk there.

I do hope you don't ride with the PB superflash like that on the front of your bike.

Thanks for all the great replies. Here are some more details:

1. This is/was a proof of concept. I'm not kidding myself thinking I am going to do loaded touring. I posted it in the Bicycle Mechanics section for that reason.
2. There are plenty of practical uses for something like this. I think ultimately it will hold my work clothes in a set of panniers. Others might want to use something like this for a light setup.
3. Like I stated earlier, I loaded it up with about 10 lbs. and went for a 5 mile ride. The bike handled fine. It turned a bit slower, but it wasn't overly dangerous in any way. I rode up to about 35mph. Like another poster said, it is probably not a good idea to go no hands, which I didn't.
4. The rack is a lot stiffer than most people think. That "plumbers' strapping" stuff is pretty strong in this application. I'm not sitting on the rack, so it should be fine with up to 50lbs, although I personally won't put anything heavier than 10lbs as stated above.
5. The strapping has holes in it. It is not going to noise dive(?). I don't understand how it could do something like that, nor do I understand the comment about the bolts and brazeons. Tubus even sells adapters for their racks that do the exact same thing (the Tubus QR adapter).
6. Regarding HillRider's comment, I think I will trim the strapping down when I'm 100% sure that's the right length I want to use. Thanks for the feedback.

Quote:

7. Yes I do ride with a Superflash in front and back! I ride by a few schools in the morning where parents are weaving in and out to drop off their kids. Being outright annoying is probably the only thing keeping them from plowing into me.

I do not do #7 any longer.

You're not serious, are you?



How does that plumbing strap resist deflection when any weight is applied to the rack? The answer is, it doesn't. Of course, then there's the dynamics,...

How is it there is any interference between the fenders and the brake cable? Fenders mount several inches below the cable, are light weight and are relatively stiff out-of-plane. This thing is jammed right up against the yoke and is a wet noodle (no stiffness unloaded, less when loaded). If that rack tilts up or down it could affect brake operation.

I totally disagree oin the brake cable thing. See my concerns in the reply above. Think about it after the load is applied and then during dynamics of riding, especially the dynamic of a loaded rack.

Agreed, especially since that's the only structural connection between this rack and the frame. When that rack starts to vibrate and rotate, it's going to unscrew on of the two screws.

I am going to back out of this thread. IMO, it is a bad (dangerous) design. You have been warned. Wear a helmet.

illwafer, you do know it's confusing and illegal to have a red light for the front, right?

something in amber, white or green would be a better idea for the front.

you seem to have a flashlight mounted to the bars, can't you put that on strobe?

There are low rider front racks available online for around $30. I carry clothes and stuff to work in compact Delta bags that would fit on a front rack.

Good point. I thought about it being confusing, but "the confused" might then become "the aware".

I do also use the flashlight too. Point taken however, I will cease using the Superflash.

Reread what I said.

The whole under any circumstances plays into effect here. If loaded and using the brakes has no effect and if unloaded and using the brakes has no effect and all other possibilities.... It really doesnt matter where it is as long as it does not effect the function of anything else.

Something strange happened here, a lot of negative comments. I did this many times, only I keep the rack closer to the fork, using the same straps. I`we been thinking of doing something similar to this next time.

Remember the straps come in several sizes and strenghts, I`we got one stiff strong type ( stainless) that I need two big plyers to bend or break. The one on the picture looks to be a strong type, and he said he is using two (on top of eachother I guess), sounds stronger than the original to me.

Also I am suprised it can be seen from the pix that the setup is interfering with the brakes. I can not see that from the pix.

I guess you are all going to be angry with me now..

Thanks for the vote of confidence, badmother. I was just trying to share information in case anyone wanted to attempt this his/herself.

You are correct about the straps. Like I said, I think I could have used just one, but I went with 2 anyway since it was easy to do. I suppose I could use 3 or 4 or 10, but I think 2 is plenty.

In no way is this setup affecting the brakes. My brakes work great and do not even squeal! As someone else stated, the setup is the same as using fenders.