Tool Sets is there much of a difference?
 

I am just learning bike repair but would like to get a tool set that will stand the test of time and work for me if im just a after the ride wrench or working on bikes for a living. (I like to buy stuff once)

Basically I am looking at Park tools compared to spin doctor. I also want a to get a work stand and truing stand.

The park truing stand seems to be a real step up but I do not see much difference in the other items myself except price.

Thanks for the input in advance, you people are great!

Park for the specialty bicycle stuff. For the general items like metric wrenches and allen keys just go to your local tool stores and ask which lines come with the lifetime warranty. Lifetime's are pretty common these days with almost any decent recognsized inhouse brand. From those pick the cheapest you can that you like the looks of and the way they fit in your hand. If you have a choice pick the ones that have the slimest and smallest ends to fit into tighter spots. There are cheaper sets out there for sure but if you buy even the cheapest that comes with a lifetime warranty you'll be buying something that's a few steps up the food chain.

You'll also want a 3/8 inch ratchet set as well. They come in handy for recessed bolts like pedal crank bolts. Your choice as to the turn wheel or the little toggle lever for changing ratchet direction but I tend to prefer the little toggle lever style even if it does get flipped accidentally now and then by being too easy to use.

ANd when you buy your screwdrivers do NOT buy the ones with the tips done in shiney chrome plating. They skid out of the heads and mess up the screws. Buy bare steel shaft drivers or if you must have shiney chrome at least get the styles that come with the black parkerized ends and chromed shanks. And since Phillips drivers are evil by design be sure you buy good ones. Or even buy a multi driver that uses the snap in driver bits. I've found that when it comes to Phillips drivers the bits the drywallers use are really nicely shaped. And when they wear a bit you toss 'em and put in a new one. Nothing ruins your day more than a worn phillips that just rounded out the + in the end of that one screw holding up the whole project..... don't ask how I know. You don't have enough time for all the stories.

A file, or grinder, works wonders for roughing up the chromed areas on the blades.

You will notice a difference in beefiness between Spin Doctor (which are house-branded VAR tools) and Park tools. Park cone wrenches are thicker stock in the handle, etc. I have the Spin Doctor pro set, which I've used A LOT (rebuilt many old bikes). I like it, and have yet to have any major breakdowns.

Truing stand-wise, it depends how much you're going to use it. I have the Minoura el-cheapo stand. Wish I had the Park TS2; probably will never shell out for it. Minoura works well enough.

I started fixing bikes about 2 months ago. This is my first time on this forum in fact but if I could, I would take back that cheap Spin Doctor starter tool kit and buy Park tools only. Even though I'd have less tools I feel like I'd be better off. I did get a Park stand and I've been very impressed with it. Again, I have no experience to speak of and I'm sure cheap tools have their place, I just haven't found out where yet.

Good tools fit better, slip less and last longer. They usually have more comfortable handles. I've seen inexpensive cone wrenches that had nicks in the jaws after one stubbron set of cones. Your better off with fewer good tools that will last for decades.

I agree 100%. You wouldn't believe the difference in quality between the Park and Pedros Shimano bottom-bracket tool - Park BBT-22. Lordy! I could tell the Pedros might work once. Then be manged for eternity. And that's just today's story.

I have a set of spin doctor tools that I've used to completely overhaul two bikes already, and my only complaint about them being the grips suck.

I'll never forget a night, in a crumby apartment, when a friend of mine told me his $5 Swiss Army Knife was as good as my real one. He inserted the cork-screw into the bottle of wine we bought - from his $5 winner. Gave it a twist. And 'SNAP!' - it left the whole cork-screw inside the cork.

I grinned. Neither one of us said a word.

Actually the Spin Doctor tools are often house-branded Lifu (Taiwanese) tools. VAR is a premium European brand and very expensive.

I'd stay away from sets and buy what you need as you do more work on the bike. That way you can choose the tool that suits you best. For example, there are different types of chain-stretch gauges: go/no-go and those that actually measures the amount of stretch. For various reasons, I prefer the latter. There are different types of hex drives: I use five types (square-drive, T-handles, knuckle jointed, L-shaped, joined folding set).

Over the years I've found Park to have the highest quality, slowest wearing bike specific tools. However, now Park has a cheaper line for the non-pro. I prefer paying extra for the old line. I still buy Craftsman for a lot of non-bike specific tools.

You don't need some tools that often come in a set. You don't head headset tools. I've been doing them for years the old fashioned why I used to do trailer and older automobile wheel bearings/races. The crank-set tools will depend on the specific crank-sets owned. I have to have three types.

On the truing stand, nothing beats the Ultimate. I even use it to mount tires (tube-type mounted tubeless with Stans). You have far better acess to the spokes/rim/hub as the wheel is held on only one side

Al

Spin Doctor stuff is fine, put in dozens of BBs with their tools and countless cassette swaps. If you use tools to make a living I'd get the best. Used to work as an auto mechanic and always treid to get my hands on Snap-On stuff. Even Craftsman stuff was considered second tier. But for the home mechanic and part time bike builder most any decent quality stuff will work. Do kick in the cash for a good torque wrench though.

Absolutely not. There are much better tools out there than park. Park would rank as midrange. Hozan, pedros, var. All superior.

I have both a Pedros bottom-bracket tool for Shimano Octalink and the Park Tool BBT-22. The Park one is much the better tool. I'd expect the ill-fitting Pedros to self-destruct.

As far as cartridge bottom bracket tools go, the best is Shimano's tool, because of its low profile. On a stubborn cup it's less likely to slip off because you're applying force closer to the BB. If you're going to use a socket handle, the Pedro's tool and the Park BBT-22 work well enough. For years Park sold the BBT-2 which was an absolute piece of garbage, then they copied the Pedro's tool and now it's fine.

Heh, heh, heh. If you like the Park Tool version, you'd LOVE using a genuine Shimano bottom bracket tool. It sets much sloser to the bottom brcket so it stays connected to the splines much better and allows you to use more muscle when loosening tight bottom brackets. Then I use the Park equivlent, with my torque wrench, when I reinstall the bottom bracket.

I also greatly prefer Shimano cable cutters to Park.

Just a thought:

If SNAP-ON made cone wrenches, which one would be the more expensive,

CAMPAGNOLO or SNAP-ON?

(ROTFLMAO)


Regards,
J T

Absolutely. The Shimano cable-cutters are, hands down - the best. I bought my gray & blues back in 1982 - still going strong. Nice & clean cuts of the nastiest cable-housing.

+1 for building the kit up as you go. My basic rule is to get top quality where it could mess up the bike, and save money where it isn't likely to. I have a SpinDoctor trueing stand, chain whip, and cable puller. The other bike-specific tools are a mix of Park and Pedro's (I'm not happy with my Park cable cutters - will look into the Shimano. I try to get high-quality non-bike-specific tools used from yard sales and such. My rubber hammer is frrom the dollar store and I couldn't love it more. Get a couple options in your hand. If you can feel a difference AND can forsee the difference mattering, then go with the better tool (if it's in your budget, of course).

I didn't care for the old Park cable cutters, but the new design works very well. However, the best way to cut cable housing is still a Dremmel tool.

Al