Fitting new stem and bars
#1
Fitting new stem and bars
Okay, whether I needed them or not I treated myself to a new stem and bars in the sales. Any useful tips for fitting them?
I've got some copperease which I was planning on smearing round the stearer and under the bit of the bars where it meets the stem.
I'm assuming that once I've undone the allen bolt of the top of the aheadset and undone the bolts on the stem it should come appart reasonably easily...
Am I right in thinking when doing the bolts up I should tighten as hard as possible by hand (I've no torque tools, just a standard allen key)?
Any tips greatfully recieved
Richard
I've got some copperease which I was planning on smearing round the stearer and under the bit of the bars where it meets the stem.
I'm assuming that once I've undone the allen bolt of the top of the aheadset and undone the bolts on the stem it should come appart reasonably easily...
Am I right in thinking when doing the bolts up I should tighten as hard as possible by hand (I've no torque tools, just a standard allen key)?
Any tips greatfully recieved

Richard
__________________
Currently riding an MTB with a split personality - commuting, touring, riding for the sake of riding, on or off road :)
Currently riding an MTB with a split personality - commuting, touring, riding for the sake of riding, on or off road :)
#2
The Female Enduro

Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 1,183
Likes: 0
From: Pennsylvania, United States of America
Originally posted by Richard D
Am I right in thinking when doing the bolts up I should tighten as hard as possible by hand (I've no torque tools, just a standard allen key)?
Am I right in thinking when doing the bolts up I should tighten as hard as possible by hand (I've no torque tools, just a standard allen key)?
#3
Senior Member

Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 12,948
Likes: 9
From: England
Take care not to scratch the bars when you fit them.
Check that the clamp does not score the bars. A score line around the Aluminium bars says Please Tear Here.
Road style bars have an Al shim between the bars and clamp, so any scoring line is harmless, but most MTB bars lack this safety feature.
Check that the clamp does not score the bars. A score line around the Aluminium bars says Please Tear Here.
Road style bars have an Al shim between the bars and clamp, so any scoring line is harmless, but most MTB bars lack this safety feature.
#4
Thanks.
I'm hoping I can get the brakes and shifters off the old bar without disconnecting the cables for ease of reassembly.
Richard
I'm hoping I can get the brakes and shifters off the old bar without disconnecting the cables for ease of reassembly.
Richard
__________________
Currently riding an MTB with a split personality - commuting, touring, riding for the sake of riding, on or off road :)
Currently riding an MTB with a split personality - commuting, touring, riding for the sake of riding, on or off road :)
#5
Richard, remember if you have an A-headset, you have to adjust it with the cap and bolt on top.
This is how i replace my stem;
1: Remove the old stem and bar, both allen keys on the stem and topcap have to be undone
2: Fit the new bar and stem together, try to fit the controls later (if possible)
Tighten the bolt for the bar well but with care, especially when the parts are alu, build up tension slow.
3: Fit the stem to the stearer, first you tighten the top cap and check the headset; the barings have to be without space but not to tight
Your front wheel has to turn with less resistance, if you`re not sure about the adjustment, ask someone to feel the steering!
4: Tighten the two bolts on the stem just like the bar bolt.
5: finished!
Two notes; i find it easier to do this with the bike on the ground, because some forks may fall out of the frame tube if the topcap is released, this is nice if you have to clean the barings, but not with stem replacement
Don`t use to much coppergrease, because it will effect the bar/ stem link.
Take the time and patience, Rome wasn`t build in a day either :thumbup:
This is how i replace my stem;
1: Remove the old stem and bar, both allen keys on the stem and topcap have to be undone
2: Fit the new bar and stem together, try to fit the controls later (if possible)
Tighten the bolt for the bar well but with care, especially when the parts are alu, build up tension slow.
3: Fit the stem to the stearer, first you tighten the top cap and check the headset; the barings have to be without space but not to tight
Your front wheel has to turn with less resistance, if you`re not sure about the adjustment, ask someone to feel the steering!
4: Tighten the two bolts on the stem just like the bar bolt.
5: finished!
Two notes; i find it easier to do this with the bike on the ground, because some forks may fall out of the frame tube if the topcap is released, this is nice if you have to clean the barings, but not with stem replacement
Don`t use to much coppergrease, because it will effect the bar/ stem link.
Take the time and patience, Rome wasn`t build in a day either :thumbup:
__________________
Mark
Dancevalley 2th of august 2003 -> JXL, Laidback luke, Sasha, John Digweed, Monica Krusse.....and on!
Mark
Dancevalley 2th of august 2003 -> JXL, Laidback luke, Sasha, John Digweed, Monica Krusse.....and on!
#7
Thanks for the advice - I now have a sparkly (well black...) new stem and bars. Installation seemed relatively straightforward, which is more than I can say about setting up the new front mech....
Richard
Richard
__________________
Currently riding an MTB with a split personality - commuting, touring, riding for the sake of riding, on or off road :)
Currently riding an MTB with a split personality - commuting, touring, riding for the sake of riding, on or off road :)





