After my question about the repair stand I got some great responses and almost ordered one, but I kept thinking it's a lot of money for something just to hold your bike. I do some welding so I decided to make one. I've got a total of about $7.00 in it. It mounts in my vice so it swivels 360 deg. and also will rotate 360. It's made just to hold the seatpost, but that's all I need it for anyway. The pics are taken before painting so it looks kinda rough yet.

Cool, so when do you start mass producing them for us?

Dave

Ummm, it's still in it's preliminary testing stage yet. I'll have to get back to you on that.

Make one for me? I'll pay ya $14!

Looks good, and a nice looking bike too

Richard

Ya done did gud!

We all know of the inventive genius of Jean Beetham Smith with her kitchen utensils turned bike rack, and we're aware of Mike's ingenuity in turning a balaclava into underwear; now comes along yet another innovator, Dirtgrinder, who has turned $7.00 into a marvelous masterpiece.

Congrats.

Wow, nice looking stand, Dirtgrinder! Good work.

velo

I'm actually more impressed with the quality of the pictures. What did you use to shoot them? But the stand is nice too:thumbup:

Thanks for the nice comments guys! And Bobsled, the camera was an Olympus 2020z. I'm sure it's been replaced by a newer model by now though. It's about 2 years old.

Well, how about that!

Neat job, Dirtgrinder. I suggest that you glue or tape some kind of non-scuff material on the clamps just in case you want to grab some painted surface.

Other than that, it LOOKS pretty stable.

Keep up the creativity.

Thanks Mike. There is about 1/4" of cork inside of the clamps. You just can't see much of it in the pic.

Does anybody know if one can buy some of that rubber dip that comes on the handles of pliers? That would be cool to put some of that on the clamps.

Nice work DG, looks great!

Yes you can. Even Wally-World has it in the tool section. But I've tried it before and it peels off too easily.

I love anything that beats the system.

Nice job, excellent craftmanship .

:thumbup:

There are those out there who consider me to be a rubber dip. I cannot, however, be bought. On the other hand...I can be rented! I'm not sure about doing clamps though.

BOBSLED:

The dip you speak of is called PLASTISOL and it works fairly decent if you really clean all surfaces thoroughly. Perhaps using denatured alcohol for starters. You can reapply in coats to build up thickness. But even better might be to go to a electronic supply store where they sell heat shrink tubing in various sizes. You can apply layers of it and shrink each layer as you apply it.

If you really want the toughest heat shrink tubing around visit your cable tv tower site/head end. The guys use a super thick/quality shrink tubing that must be slowly heated with a blowtorch or heat gun--no lie. It has a glue applied internally that will also seal and stick the tubing to whatever you are wrapping. It's also available to fit over large stuff like the large connectors that are used in poles and underground boxes. I have put that stuff on tool handles and it never comes off. Maybe a tech will be kind enough to give you a foot or two for nothing. This stuff will outlast anything bought in a store. You could inquire if electrician supply outlets carry it as well. DO NOT get wrinkles in it as you shrink it or they will act as rough spots to ruin a painted finish. Good Luck

Hey dirtgrinder...That bike looks awfully clean to be a MTB...

You should have seen it last week! Had to wash it 3 days in a row. It was unbelievably muddy. Rained for a couple days, the ground thawed, and some newly cut trail. What a fun mess!

LOL!

Dirtgrinder,

I am thinking the same. Can you talk some more about the construction.

I see you have a C clamp. I was thinking of using vise grip. What is welded onto the C clamps?

how are you making it rotate?

What is the base.

Erik

The top or stationary part of the C clamp is welded to the back side of the square tubing. Then the curved material is welded to the front side of the tubing. Then on the pivoting part of the C clamp I welded another piece of the curved material. For the curved material I used pieces of a railing. The inside curves were perfectly shaped for seat tubes. Since the end of the C clamp pivots, I used the two small diameter rods as slides to hold it straight. Hope this helps. If not I can take some close up pics. DG