Why Oil Chainring?
#1
Flat Ire
Thread Starter
Why Oil Chainring?
In a previous thread regarding chain lube I asked about the necessity of lubing the chainrings. There was opinion both for but mostly against the necessity of this.
Now, I'm installing a bottom bracket and chainwheel and I read this in the Shimano SI-1F30H Technical Service Instructions:
(When all else fails read the manual)
Link to the tech doc:
https://techdocs.shimano.com/media/te...9830605111.pdf
So, I will lube the chainring. But what lube to use? The intuitive answer would be the same lube one uses on the chain. And what about the cassette? I couldn't find any reference in the Shimano tech docs regarding lubing or not-lubing the cassette. The intuitive answer here would be to lube it same as the chainring.
So, I will be lubing my chainrings and cassette with the Dumonde Tech Lube. Unless someone can provide a good argument not to.
Any opinions would be appreciated.
Now, I'm installing a bottom bracket and chainwheel and I read this in the Shimano SI-1F30H Technical Service Instructions:
You should periodically wash the chainrings in a neutral detergent and then
lubricate them again. In addition, cleaning the chain with neutral detergent and
lubricating it can be an effective way of extending the useful life of the chainrings
and the chain.
lubricate them again. In addition, cleaning the chain with neutral detergent and
lubricating it can be an effective way of extending the useful life of the chainrings
and the chain.
Link to the tech doc:
https://techdocs.shimano.com/media/te...9830605111.pdf
So, I will lube the chainring. But what lube to use? The intuitive answer would be the same lube one uses on the chain. And what about the cassette? I couldn't find any reference in the Shimano tech docs regarding lubing or not-lubing the cassette. The intuitive answer here would be to lube it same as the chainring.
So, I will be lubing my chainrings and cassette with the Dumonde Tech Lube. Unless someone can provide a good argument not to.
Any opinions would be appreciated.
#2
Call me The Breeze
It's gonna turn into a big dirty mess and there are no moving parts to lubricate. There's 2 good reasons not to.
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Wow, that's ridiculous. WTF? There are no moving parts and therefore no positive reason to lube the chainring. And as bRAD points out, there's also negative reason to not lube the chainring - because it'll just grab more dirt and dust.
I think you have two arguments against lubing and none for lubing, except some random Shimano tech paper says to do so. That's not an argument. That's trusting perceived expertise.
Shimano makes good parts, but I see zero reason to trust them here. They also still say, in the instructions that came with 9-speed bar-end shifters, that it only works with Dura-Ace rear derailer. Which is totally incorrect. 8-speed and prior Dura-Ace drivetrain weren't compatible with other Shimano rear derailers/rear shifters, but this isn't true for 9-speed.
I VERY STRONGLY advise you to ignore the Shimano instructions.
I think you have two arguments against lubing and none for lubing, except some random Shimano tech paper says to do so. That's not an argument. That's trusting perceived expertise.
Shimano makes good parts, but I see zero reason to trust them here. They also still say, in the instructions that came with 9-speed bar-end shifters, that it only works with Dura-Ace rear derailer. Which is totally incorrect. 8-speed and prior Dura-Ace drivetrain weren't compatible with other Shimano rear derailers/rear shifters, but this isn't true for 9-speed.
I VERY STRONGLY advise you to ignore the Shimano instructions.
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"c" is not a unit that measures tire width
"c" is not a unit that measures tire width
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Could it be for the friction of a chain moving across it?
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The chain doesn't move across the chainring with a meaningful amount of friction. It seats into place on the chainring teeth, but isn't rubbing against it with lots of force.
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"c" is not a unit that measures tire width
"c" is not a unit that measures tire width
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This same tech doc also says if the tightening torques are not correct the crank may fall off and THE BIKE MAY FALL OVER. Maybe, just maybe, there was a slip in translation?
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perhaps the OP actually means the Bottom Bracket and is just confused because it attaches to the Chainring they refer to the whole assembly as the "chainwheel". Of course that would be greased and not oiled.
Oops just looked at the PDF again:
>>>snip<<<
"You should periodically wash the chainrings in a neutral detergent and then
lubricate them again. In addition, cleaning the chain with neutral detergent and
lubricating it can be an effective way of extending the useful life of the chainrings
and the chain."
perhaps they are promoting a light coating of oil to inhibit rust?
May be written in a mild form of engrish.
Oops just looked at the PDF again:
>>>snip<<<
"You should periodically wash the chainrings in a neutral detergent and then
lubricate them again. In addition, cleaning the chain with neutral detergent and
lubricating it can be an effective way of extending the useful life of the chainrings
and the chain."
perhaps they are promoting a light coating of oil to inhibit rust?
May be written in a mild form of engrish.
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The chainrings and cassette are not supposed to slip against the chain. They contact, load, and uncontact in a nonsliding manner. Also, any lubrication that may be needed will come off of the chain as it rolls along the teeth. Finally, excessive lubrication will attract dirt, causing faster wear of the components.
I do advise greasing components which do not move relative to each other but which you will want to get apart later. This includes the interface between the crank arm and spindle, as well as all threads.
I do advise greasing components which do not move relative to each other but which you will want to get apart later. This includes the interface between the crank arm and spindle, as well as all threads.
#12
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Obviously Shimano never heard about lubricant migration due to physical contact. I lube my chain and the chain lubes the sprockets in turn just fine.
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ever seen the difference between used and unused rail tracks?
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When you lube the chain correctly, you are already lubing the chain ring.
#19
aka Phil Jungels
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I'm inclined to suspect that. If you substitute chain for chainring at that instance, everything else seems to logically fall in place with that bullet-paragraph.
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I believe that the intent is to wipe the rings down with a light oil, leaving no liquid behind. This will be of most value along the inner face of the outer ring on a double or the mid and outer rings on a triple. A very small amount of lubrication will assist the chain in sliding across the inner faces of these rings as it changes diameter from the smaller to the larger ring during a shift. As an alternative to traditional lubes, a spray on dry graphite or teflon coating may do as well. In any case, lube applied in this manner should not collect dirt.
Improved, or at least "non degraded" shifting performance should be the result. You can observe this on a set of blackened rings that have been in service for a while.
Improved, or at least "non degraded" shifting performance should be the result. You can observe this on a set of blackened rings that have been in service for a while.
#22
Flat Ire
Thread Starter
OK OK I GET IT.
I won't lube the chainrings irregardless of what Shaimano says.
I will consider, however lubing the handlebars and the blinkers.
Since I use Dumonde tech lube and I apply it with a needle dropper, there will be little or no lube migration to the gears. But I guess that's ok.
The chainrings have milled-out sections near the sprockets. I guess these are there to aid gear-chainging action. And I suppose the side of the chain is supposed to brush through these sections. This would be metal moving against metal, and wouldn't lube prevent wear on these milled-out areas?
I won't lube the chainrings irregardless of what Shaimano says.
I will consider, however lubing the handlebars and the blinkers.
Since I use Dumonde tech lube and I apply it with a needle dropper, there will be little or no lube migration to the gears. But I guess that's ok.
The chainrings have milled-out sections near the sprockets. I guess these are there to aid gear-chainging action. And I suppose the side of the chain is supposed to brush through these sections. This would be metal moving against metal, and wouldn't lube prevent wear on these milled-out areas?
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You'd be surprised. Do you get any black goop (stains for drier lubes) when you wipe down your gears and your pulleys wheels? If so, migration has occurred.