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Proprietary woes
Recently I cracked the freehub body on my 1996 Shimano Dura Ace model 7402(?) 8 speed rear hub. I was deftly and, admittedly, without much concentration, switching out a cassette. The lockring skipped a thread and took a thin, 1/8th inch rectangular chip out of the end of the freehub body. This rendered the inner lockring threads, to my knowledge, useless (unless, as one LBS mechanic suggested, I "carefully" hacksaw it and turn the hub into a 7 speed [...hmm])
Anyway, when I set out to replace the body myself I found upon removing the removing the axle that this particular hub wouldn't take a normal 10mm allen wrench. Or any allen wrench for that matter. The same LBS was stumped (...hmm). I did my own research and found the parts I needed. This was to be one of my most memorable voyages into the infinite foresight of Shimano and their ridiculously exorbatant Dura-Ace line. I need a $20 splined tool to remove the freehub body. They only required these for a few years. From 1997 they require a normal 10mm allen wrench. Pretty hefty jump in specialization between '96 and '97 wouldn't you say? After I employ this highly specialized tool I need a highly specialized, proprietary Dura-Ace freehub body. Please note that the freehub body for this particular model year for Dura-Ace CANNOT BE INTERCHANGED WITH ANYTHING but what it was first intended to run. This part costs no less than $70 (I've seen it as high as 120 on some sites). Wow. $70 for a lousy freehub body?! This wheel is going to hang inert for a while until an eBay miracle happens. Two eBay miracles, I should say. A new reason for me to SLOW DOWN when working on bikes. Yet another reason Dura-Ace is a rich man's game. |
Don't be too harsh on it. All those spendy folk that bought early Dura-Ace made the freehub concept sucessful enough for Shimano to go on and design the standardized parts we use now.
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Originally Posted by Steev
(Post 8191653)
Don't be too harsh on it. All those spendy folk that bought early Dura-Ace made the freehub concept sucessful enough for Shimano to go on and design the standardized parts we use now.
Anyhoo, to the OP, good luck on getting your top-of-the-range parts, and vive la planned obsolescence! |
The hub is 13 years old, give Shimano a break! If you think they are unique in planned obsolence, look at Campy's history.
Unless you insist on Dura Ace, new Ultegra or even 105 8/9/10-speed hubs are available very reasonably priced and Colorado Cyclist offers a complete rear wheel with an Ultegra hub and Mavic CXP-33 or Open Pro rims for ~$175. |
I think rebuilding the wheel around a new, consumer related, entirely servicable hub might be in order. "Carefully" hacksawing off the damaged area is tempting, though...
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It's not just Dura Ace. I had to replace an XT 8/9/10 speed freehub body once, and found that not just any XT 8/9/10 speed freehub body would work. It's been awhile and I don't remember the details, but I do remember cursing Shimano. Of course, I do really like Shimano. Sort of.
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Originally Posted by well biked
(Post 8192449)
Of course, I do really like Shimano. Sort of.
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Originally Posted by johnbaldwin207
(Post 8191171)
Recently I cracked the freehub body on my 1996 Shimano Dura Ace model 7402(?) 8 speed rear hub. I was deftly and, admittedly, without much concentration, switching out a cassette. The lockring skipped a thread and took a thin, 1/8th inch rectangular chip out of the end of the freehub body. This rendered the inner lockring threads, to my knowledge, useless (unless, as one LBS mechanic suggested, I "carefully" hacksaw it and turn the hub into a 7 speed [...hmm])
Anyway, when I set out to replace the body myself I found upon removing the removing the axle that this particular hub wouldn't take a normal 10mm allen wrench. Or any allen wrench for that matter. The same LBS was stumped (...hmm). I did my own research and found the parts I needed. This was to be one of my most memorable voyages into the infinite foresight of Shimano and their ridiculously exorbatant Dura-Ace line. I need a $20 splined tool to remove the freehub body. They only required these for a few years. From 1997 they require a normal 10mm allen wrench. Pretty hefty jump in specialization between '96 and '97 wouldn't you say? After I employ this highly specialized tool I need a highly specialized, proprietary Dura-Ace freehub body. Please note that the freehub body for this particular model year for Dura-Ace CANNOT BE INTERCHANGED WITH ANYTHING but what it was first intended to run. This part costs no less than $70 (I've seen it as high as 120 on some sites). Wow. $70 for a lousy freehub body?! This wheel is going to hang inert for a while until an eBay miracle happens. Two eBay miracles, I should say. A new reason for me to SLOW DOWN when working on bikes. Yet another reason Dura-Ace is a rich man's game. |
The top of the line is almost never worth it, Don't play around with Dura-Ace, Ultegra is just as good, and you don't have to pay the early adopter tax.
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Originally Posted by JohnDThompson
(Post 8193750)
Shimano: the Microsoft of the bicycle world.
If it weren't for innovation we'd still be riding 4-speed freewheels, rod operated derailleurs and using C/PM. :D |
Originally Posted by HillRider
(Post 8194745)
As I said above, don't beat on Shimano before you know about Campy's history too. Ever hear of Synchro I and II, Delta brakes, PermaLink chains, and a few other choice items?
If it weren't for innovation we'd still be riding 4-speed freewheels, rod operated derailleurs and using C/PM. :D As you point out, Campagnolo has done this as well, but do note that the examples you give all come from the period after Tullio's death. Re: 4-speed freewheels, rod operated derailleurs, and CP/M -- something wrong with those? (I still have 3 or 4 CP/M computers here...) :-P |
and those paris-roubaix shifting mechanisms are just badass. I'm sorry, but there is just no way around how cool those things are. I'd rock one.
http://www.classiclightweights.co.uk...risRoubaix.jpg |
^^^That photo. Just...wow.
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