Proprietary woes
#1
Proprietary woes
Recently I cracked the freehub body on my 1996 Shimano Dura Ace model 7402(?) 8 speed rear hub. I was deftly and, admittedly, without much concentration, switching out a cassette. The lockring skipped a thread and took a thin, 1/8th inch rectangular chip out of the end of the freehub body. This rendered the inner lockring threads, to my knowledge, useless (unless, as one LBS mechanic suggested, I "carefully" hacksaw it and turn the hub into a 7 speed [...hmm])
Anyway, when I set out to replace the body myself I found upon removing the removing the axle that this particular hub wouldn't take a normal 10mm allen wrench. Or any allen wrench for that matter. The same LBS was stumped (...hmm). I did my own research and found the parts I needed. This was to be one of my most memorable voyages into the infinite foresight of Shimano and their ridiculously exorbatant Dura-Ace line.
I need a $20 splined tool to remove the freehub body. They only required these for a few years. From 1997 they require a normal 10mm allen wrench. Pretty hefty jump in specialization between '96 and '97 wouldn't you say?
After I employ this highly specialized tool I need a highly specialized, proprietary Dura-Ace freehub body. Please note that the freehub body for this particular model year for Dura-Ace CANNOT BE INTERCHANGED WITH ANYTHING but what it was first intended to run. This part costs no less than $70 (I've seen it as high as 120 on some sites).
Wow. $70 for a lousy freehub body?! This wheel is going to hang inert for a while until an eBay miracle happens. Two eBay miracles, I should say. A new reason for me to SLOW DOWN when working on bikes. Yet another reason Dura-Ace is a rich man's game.
Anyway, when I set out to replace the body myself I found upon removing the removing the axle that this particular hub wouldn't take a normal 10mm allen wrench. Or any allen wrench for that matter. The same LBS was stumped (...hmm). I did my own research and found the parts I needed. This was to be one of my most memorable voyages into the infinite foresight of Shimano and their ridiculously exorbatant Dura-Ace line.
I need a $20 splined tool to remove the freehub body. They only required these for a few years. From 1997 they require a normal 10mm allen wrench. Pretty hefty jump in specialization between '96 and '97 wouldn't you say?
After I employ this highly specialized tool I need a highly specialized, proprietary Dura-Ace freehub body. Please note that the freehub body for this particular model year for Dura-Ace CANNOT BE INTERCHANGED WITH ANYTHING but what it was first intended to run. This part costs no less than $70 (I've seen it as high as 120 on some sites).
Wow. $70 for a lousy freehub body?! This wheel is going to hang inert for a while until an eBay miracle happens. Two eBay miracles, I should say. A new reason for me to SLOW DOWN when working on bikes. Yet another reason Dura-Ace is a rich man's game.
#3
Guest

Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 3,768
Likes: 6
From: Grid Reference, SK
Bikes: I never learned to ride a bike. It is my deepest shame.
Anyhoo, to the OP, good luck on getting your top-of-the-range parts, and vive la planned obsolescence!
#4
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 33,657
Likes: 1,119
From: Pittsburgh, PA
Bikes: '96 Litespeed Catalyst, '05 Litespeed Firenze, '06 Litespeed Tuscany, '20 Surly Midnight Special, All are 3x10. It is hilly around here!
The hub is 13 years old, give Shimano a break! If you think they are unique in planned obsolence, look at Campy's history.
Unless you insist on Dura Ace, new Ultegra or even 105 8/9/10-speed hubs are available very reasonably priced and Colorado Cyclist offers a complete rear wheel with an Ultegra hub and Mavic CXP-33 or Open Pro rims for ~$175.
Unless you insist on Dura Ace, new Ultegra or even 105 8/9/10-speed hubs are available very reasonably priced and Colorado Cyclist offers a complete rear wheel with an Ultegra hub and Mavic CXP-33 or Open Pro rims for ~$175.
#6
It's not just Dura Ace. I had to replace an XT 8/9/10 speed freehub body once, and found that not just any XT 8/9/10 speed freehub body would work. It's been awhile and I don't remember the details, but I do remember cursing Shimano. Of course, I do really like Shimano. Sort of.
#7
Guest

Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 3,768
Likes: 6
From: Grid Reference, SK
Bikes: I never learned to ride a bike. It is my deepest shame.
#8
Old fart



Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 26,316
Likes: 5,226
From: Appleton WI
Bikes: Several, mostly not name brands.
Recently I cracked the freehub body on my 1996 Shimano Dura Ace model 7402(?) 8 speed rear hub. I was deftly and, admittedly, without much concentration, switching out a cassette. The lockring skipped a thread and took a thin, 1/8th inch rectangular chip out of the end of the freehub body. This rendered the inner lockring threads, to my knowledge, useless (unless, as one LBS mechanic suggested, I "carefully" hacksaw it and turn the hub into a 7 speed [...hmm])
Anyway, when I set out to replace the body myself I found upon removing the removing the axle that this particular hub wouldn't take a normal 10mm allen wrench. Or any allen wrench for that matter. The same LBS was stumped (...hmm). I did my own research and found the parts I needed. This was to be one of my most memorable voyages into the infinite foresight of Shimano and their ridiculously exorbatant Dura-Ace line.
I need a $20 splined tool to remove the freehub body. They only required these for a few years. From 1997 they require a normal 10mm allen wrench. Pretty hefty jump in specialization between '96 and '97 wouldn't you say?
After I employ this highly specialized tool I need a highly specialized, proprietary Dura-Ace freehub body. Please note that the freehub body for this particular model year for Dura-Ace CANNOT BE INTERCHANGED WITH ANYTHING but what it was first intended to run. This part costs no less than $70 (I've seen it as high as 120 on some sites).
Wow. $70 for a lousy freehub body?! This wheel is going to hang inert for a while until an eBay miracle happens. Two eBay miracles, I should say. A new reason for me to SLOW DOWN when working on bikes. Yet another reason Dura-Ace is a rich man's game.
Anyway, when I set out to replace the body myself I found upon removing the removing the axle that this particular hub wouldn't take a normal 10mm allen wrench. Or any allen wrench for that matter. The same LBS was stumped (...hmm). I did my own research and found the parts I needed. This was to be one of my most memorable voyages into the infinite foresight of Shimano and their ridiculously exorbatant Dura-Ace line.
I need a $20 splined tool to remove the freehub body. They only required these for a few years. From 1997 they require a normal 10mm allen wrench. Pretty hefty jump in specialization between '96 and '97 wouldn't you say?
After I employ this highly specialized tool I need a highly specialized, proprietary Dura-Ace freehub body. Please note that the freehub body for this particular model year for Dura-Ace CANNOT BE INTERCHANGED WITH ANYTHING but what it was first intended to run. This part costs no less than $70 (I've seen it as high as 120 on some sites).
Wow. $70 for a lousy freehub body?! This wheel is going to hang inert for a while until an eBay miracle happens. Two eBay miracles, I should say. A new reason for me to SLOW DOWN when working on bikes. Yet another reason Dura-Ace is a rich man's game.
#10
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 33,657
Likes: 1,119
From: Pittsburgh, PA
Bikes: '96 Litespeed Catalyst, '05 Litespeed Firenze, '06 Litespeed Tuscany, '20 Surly Midnight Special, All are 3x10. It is hilly around here!
As I said above, don't beat on Shimano before you know about Campy's history too. Ever hear of Synchro I and II, Delta brakes, PermaLink chains, and a few other choice items?
If it weren't for innovation we'd still be riding 4-speed freewheels, rod operated derailleurs and using C/PM.
If it weren't for innovation we'd still be riding 4-speed freewheels, rod operated derailleurs and using C/PM.
#11
Old fart



Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 26,316
Likes: 5,226
From: Appleton WI
Bikes: Several, mostly not name brands.
As I said above, don't beat on Shimano before you know about Campy's history too. Ever hear of Synchro I and II, Delta brakes, PermaLink chains, and a few other choice items?
If it weren't for innovation we'd still be riding 4-speed freewheels, rod operated derailleurs and using C/PM.
If it weren't for innovation we'd still be riding 4-speed freewheels, rod operated derailleurs and using C/PM.

As you point out, Campagnolo has done this as well, but do note that the examples you give all come from the period after Tullio's death.
Re: 4-speed freewheels, rod operated derailleurs, and CP/M -- something wrong with those? (I still have 3 or 4 CP/M computers here...) :-P
#12
and those paris-roubaix shifting mechanisms are just badass. I'm sorry, but there is just no way around how cool those things are. I'd rock one.
Last edited by fuzz2050; 01-16-09 at 08:19 PM. Reason: Photo, for coolness




