Anyone have an exploded view of a rear wheel?
The freewheel, eaxle, hub, etc.

Thanks!

Try these: (from searching w/ Google....)
https://www.instructables.com/id/Rebu...ycle-rear-hub/
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:La...parison-en.svg
https://www.technical-illustrations.c...e-project.html

I think the Zinn books do a good job with exploded views.

Are you looking for a typical rear wheel, or are you looking for a specific type or brand of wheel? What are you going to use it for? Just curious....

https://techdocs.shimano.com/techdocs/index.jsp

Hubs aren't generic. Shimano and Campy both have .pdf's on their web sites showing maintenance procedures and parts lists for their hubs. For the boutique brands, (Chris King, DT, etc.) contact the manufacturer or check their web sites too.

I have a mountain bike wheel with a Falcon freewheel; trying to disassemble so I can make it a single speed.

I thought I could remove the axle first, then remove the freewheel, however, I cannot get the axle to slide out. Is the freewheel removed first?

You didn't need to take the axle out. YOu need a freewheel remover.

ANy hub that has a Falcon FW attached to it is bottom enf, quality wise.
Are you sure you even want to invest any money in that?
This is the removal tool you beed, in addition to a chain whip-
https://www.parktool.com/products/det...=4&item=FR%2D7

Why the whip?

To hold the cassette. Unless you have hands like the incredible hulk

It's a freewheel

You know what I mean. Let's not be anal here

No, since you thought a chain whip was necessary, I was sure you didn't know what you meant.

If the freewheel is really on there, it's better to have the axle in there so that you can put a skewer (assuming you have a hollow axle) in to hold the freewheel tool in place while turning your rear wheel on your bench vise. If you don't have a bench vise, you can put a one inch socket in a breaker bar to wrench on it.

Here'a an example of the tool you need.

I'm guessing your axle didn't slide out because you didn't remove the cone and locknuts from one side. If that's the case, leave 'em be unless you need to repack hub bearings or get a new axle.

The cone and locknuts aren't coming out until the freewheel is removed. What are you going to use for a single speed cog?

Actually, if you read the thread again, I never said he needed one. I just stated what they're used for

I have not selected a single speed conversion kit - can you recommend something?

I was confused when I first attempted a conversion. There are a few things to deal with, but a conversion kit is not necessary with a freewheel. Performance makes one for freehubs which works well.


steps for freewheel-to-ss conversion:

1) remove freewheel with proper tool (hey, I thought a chainwhip was necessary too!) - a vice works great for a stuck freewheel, because you can twist on the rim to apply torgue. You still need the removal tool though - the vice just replaces a large crescent wrench.

2) buy a BMX (single cog) freewheel. Mine is Shimano ($19 from LBS), and install in place of the Falcon.

3) adjust axle spacers to align the chainline with your front chainring. I used my inner chainring.

4) to center the rear wheel in the frame, re-dish the wheel. I did not do this because of spoke length problems, but my wheel lined up pretty well. I got lucky. Another thing that worked well was a new axle that had adjustable spacers. You just dial in the fit.

3 - axles spacers; buy at LBS?
4 - what is involved in re-dishing the wheel?

Those steps are right on. You might find axle spacers at your LBS, but many don't have a whole lot in their parts bins if they work mostly on newer bikes. You can order them from loosescrews or biketoolsetc. I've resorted to 9/16" washers (I think - check the size), which fit pretty well and I can get in a box of 100 for little $$.

Redishing the wheel involves moving the rim (which is now off center, thanks to your swapping of spacers from one side of the wheel to the other) away from the freewheel side. You need a truing stand and a spoke wrench (or a selection of different spoke wrenches - there are different sizes). You might be able to do this job in the dropouts without a truing stand, but I think it would be difficult.

If this sounds daunting, it is, slightly. It is definitely time-consuming. The SS conversion kits you've seen only work on cassettes, not freewheels.

A truing stand is the best way to go, but you can adapt if you have some patience.
I bought a couple packs of small alligator clips from Radio Shack.
I put a clip om each spoke near the nipple for ONE side of the wheel, thus 18 clips for a 36 spoke wheel.
I'll turn a nipple and slide the clip toward the axle. Repeat on the opposite sid. Then I'll go 90 degrees from those 2 and repeat. And so on, going evenly.
Since your spokes run at different angles from each side, the nipples WON'T be turned exactly the same amount!!!!
Go in small amounts, like an 1/8 turn and measure the difference before & after.
I'll check lateral true between each step.
I just use a felt tip marker and turn the wheel, so the "high spots" contact the marker and thus get "marked". Usually the ink will wipe off, although with some, you might need alcohol or similar. I'll then "pull" the low spots in the direction I want to go.
You don't even need a ruler. Just use a stick or similar. Place against the rim and mark it with your thumb against the chain stay. Keep your thumb on the stick and check the other side to see if it matches.
I would start by loosening spokes on the first side and then tightening the other vs possibly over tightening.

I'd also read the section about truing at the PARK tool site before you start. It can add a lot of insight!

Will this work? https://cgi.ebay.com/18-tooth-single-...QQcmdZViewItem

If the wheel is off center, the bike won't ride right, will it?

I did take the locknut off one side of the axle, but it still would not slide out. The locknut on the other side of the axle would not come loose.
Maybe it's time for a new wheel?

That freewheel is what we're talking about, although having done this conversion a lot, I can say that you should shell out for the Shimano freewheels (~$20). The cheap ones aren't worth spit.

You won't be able to ride the bike after converting without dishing the wheel. You are correct that a new wheel is an option, and can probably be had in the $50 range (+$20 for a freewheel).

As for the locknuts, they're supposed to be tight - keeps the wheel on the frame, especially with semi-horizontal dropouts. You just need to honk on it.

You really don't need a truing stand just to redish one wheel. I did it with a wheel in the dropouts and got it beautifully true and round. A dishing gauge can be made out of a single piece of cardboard and a ruler. One thing I will concede is that I didn't pay nearly enough attention to getting the spoke tension even, and the wheel loosened up after three days.