how do you get into old rat trap to grease the bearings? i have several sets id like to grease them as they are like 30 years old but i dont see a way to get them apart. What is the best way to push grease around the pedal axel?

Remove the cap - which covers the end of the axle on the end of the pedal - furthest away from the cranks. From there you should see a lock-bolt or ring of some form. Remove. Then remove the cone. You should now be able to pull the axle free from the pedal body. Clean thoroughly and add new grease and fresh ball-bearings (count how many were in there if possible - just don't try to jam in one too many) and re-assemble. The final adjustment may take several attempts. Don't be discouraged, it takes us all awhile.

This is intended to be done with the pedals removed from the bicycle.

these old rat traps have no end caps. Thats the problem...

how else can you get grease in there?

Those are cheap & cheesy pedals. You can't. Well, you can try shooting some thin white lithium grease in between the spindle and the body, but it's not going to do much good.

Decent pedals are pretty cheap: https://www.bikepartsusa.com/bikeparts/item/01-117971/

Or these are nice - but need an overhaul before you use them:

https://cgi.ebay.com/MKS-Sylvan-Road-...742.m153.l1262

This guy has a bottomless supply, so don't strain yourself speed-wise if you were to order same.

Those are pretty cheap, but I prefer the MKS Touring Pedals: https://www.velo-orange.com/mkstope.html
They're top-of-the-line when it comes to rat traps, but way nice on my one-speed: https://home.comcast.net/~jeff_wills/...es/bike033.htm

Any MKS pedal is built around the same axle and cups/cones pattern. Pick one that you like. I run the GR-9 pedals on my customized Trek hybrid. Love 'em - though I need to tweak the adjustment on one of 'em later today (raining here in Podunk - no riding in forecast).

Tally Ho!

Some of these are crimped together and can be disassembled by twisting or prying up the crimp that holds the end cap on. You can then service them and recrimp them back together. Hopefully without breaking off the crimp tab. Usually easier to buy or find some cheap replacements.

The MKS series has a gray plastic cap with a small slot in the metal on the bottom. One places a small screwdriver - or similar - into the slot and push/pry. With a small amount of education in physics and a sprinkle of 'common-sense' on top, out she pops. For the klutz-savant, they do sell replacement caps.

...or just drill a 1/16" hole in the end cap. Stand the pedal up on its threaded spindle and squirt oil into the hole until it starts to leak out the inboard end. Can't do any harm and you might be surprised how long this keeps things smooth in there.

Grease is what is called for here, unless it's a track-bike on it's way to a race, and grease is what most use - myself included. Though putting a hole in the cap to insert a screw to aid in opening same is a nice idea. But I'd also want a way to cover the hole so dirt, water, etc didn't get in. Pedal bearings should not require an overhaul more often that once a year. More like every 2 - 5, depending on riding habits and terrain. The most time consuming part of an overhaul is learning how to properly (trial & error) adjust the cones and lock-nuts so it comes out tight but without any binding and no lateral play. Takes a little time one's first time out. After that - it becomes child's play.

i broke down and bought me a pair of these babies

https://www.velo-orange.com/mkstope.html

i ordered them today. I cant wait to see what they are like. They look great!

Nice. If anyone calls them platform pedals, smack their wrist.

Good going. I suggest overhauling them with cleaning them out inside. Then applying good quality grease and adjusting them so there is 0 play, and no binding at all. It's a very tight window, but you can do this. Oh yes you can!

And tighten the locknut - on top - nice and tight so the pedals won't come loose from bouncing up and down the road.

before even using them? Do they not come pre-lubed up or is the stock lube junk?

The grease in there is more like a packaging compound so if they're store in a damp environment - they are less likely to rust. Like guns are packed in Cosmoline before being issued in the military. So yes - they do need cleaning and the bearings brought into adjustment in their narrow window. And then the top locknut torqued down to do it's job of maintaining adjustment.

My old pedals weren't spinning easily. I just removed them from the crank. Then, holding the pedal's axis vertical, I put drops of motor oil on the shaft and let it run down into the bearings. Ever since, the pedals spin freely and easily. That was two years ago.

Many of the old school pedals literally have to be disassembled before the bearings can be accessed, cleaned, greased, and adjusted. The dust cap or end plate is held in place/part of the side plates or rubber blocks. Not really a big deal unless the screws/nuts are corroded or the screw heads are messed up. Should only take a few minutes to take it apart.

Most new pedals come overtightened and under greased. That's why many do servicing and adjustments to get their pedals as smooth rolling as possible. Plus if you are anal enough and the dust caps are push-in's, place/position the dust cap with the logo so it lines up with the body of the pedal.

What do you pedal gurus think of these?
https://www.performancebike.com/shop/...tegory_ID=5240
Besides the unfortunate name on the side, I like them, and both sides are usable - you're not going to slip off the back side. I've bought a few pairs, usually at a slightly lower price than the current sale.

I'm impressed with the MKS Sylvan price on ebay though. I might go for those, although what I really need are a couple pair of track pedals for my son's fixies. My most recent pedal is a GR-9 I got in a bf trade.

They don't appear to be serviceable. Not sure is they accept toe-clips (personal fetish).

The MKS GR-9's, once properly overhauled and adjusted, are my favorites for my hybrid - with toe-clips, of course.