Lowering the gearing on a road bike
#1
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Lowering the gearing on a road bike
I am trying to lower the gearing on a friends bike without spending too much money, so going to a triple is not an option. The current setup is an older 8-speed shimano 105, 53-42 on the front 12-23 on the back. I have two main questions:
1.) If I add a smaller chainring(s) and a bigger cassette, what would be the lowest combination possible?
2.) If I switch to a compact double, will the derailleur cage be adequate? Is this something that is normally changed as well? Are there any other issues with converting to a compact double?
Any other advice is appreciated.
1.) If I add a smaller chainring(s) and a bigger cassette, what would be the lowest combination possible?
2.) If I switch to a compact double, will the derailleur cage be adequate? Is this something that is normally changed as well? Are there any other issues with converting to a compact double?
Any other advice is appreciated.
#2
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Your current rear derailleur should be fine if you switch to a compact double. You might have a "fun" time trying to locate a square-taper compact crank in this day and age (unless you want to get a new bottom bracket as well, but you said you're trying to do this cheaply). E-Bay will be your friend.
These are the 8-speed cassette combos: https://sheldonbrown.com/k7.html#8cassettes. Again, I imagine E-bay will be helpful to find them anymore.
As for the smallest chain-ring you can fit on your current crank... A modern double crank will only fit a 38-tooth ring. To get the "for sure" answer for your specific setup, grab a ruler, measure the distance between two of the chainring bolts, and look here: https://www.sheldonbrown.com/gloss_bo-z.html
These are the 8-speed cassette combos: https://sheldonbrown.com/k7.html#8cassettes. Again, I imagine E-bay will be helpful to find them anymore.
As for the smallest chain-ring you can fit on your current crank... A modern double crank will only fit a 38-tooth ring. To get the "for sure" answer for your specific setup, grab a ruler, measure the distance between two of the chainring bolts, and look here: https://www.sheldonbrown.com/gloss_bo-z.html
#3
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Your cheapest option for a significant gearing change will be a MTB cassette, MTB medium/long cage rear derailler, and a new chain. If you shop around, you can have all the parts for $50 plus shipping.
derailler: https://www.universalcycles.com/shopp...66&category=72 $23
cassette: https://www.universalcycles.com/shopp...08&category=42 $20
chain: https://www.universalcycles.com/shopp...11&category=61 $12
Make that $55.
A 39 tooth chainring would hurt either for another $25: https://www.universalcycles.com/shopp...&category=2629
One more thing, for the compact crankset, my experience and that of others has generally been that standard road deraillers work just fine when used with a compact crank. Until you start getting below 48 teeth, you shouldn't have any issues with achieving perfect shifting.
derailler: https://www.universalcycles.com/shopp...66&category=72 $23
cassette: https://www.universalcycles.com/shopp...08&category=42 $20
chain: https://www.universalcycles.com/shopp...11&category=61 $12
Make that $55.
A 39 tooth chainring would hurt either for another $25: https://www.universalcycles.com/shopp...&category=2629
One more thing, for the compact crankset, my experience and that of others has generally been that standard road deraillers work just fine when used with a compact crank. Until you start getting below 48 teeth, you shouldn't have any issues with achieving perfect shifting.
Last edited by joejack951; 04-09-09 at 06:58 PM.
#4
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How much lower gearing do you want?
The least intrusive/costly option is to put a 38t inner-chainring on your existing crank. This will give you one gear lower than what you have. Then a 12-28t cassette will be about maximum that your RD can handle. These two would give you about 3-gears lower than what you have now or 26%.
1.) If I add a smaller chainring(s) and a bigger cassette, what would be the lowest combination possible?
Last edited by DannoXYZ; 04-09-09 at 07:27 PM.
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How much lower gearing do you want?
The least intrusive/costly option is to put a 38t inner-chainring on your existing crank. This will give you one gear lower than what you have. Then a 12-28t cassette will be about maximum that your RD can handle. These two would give you about 3-gears lower than what you have now or 26%.
The least intrusive/costly option is to put a 38t inner-chainring on your existing crank. This will give you one gear lower than what you have. Then a 12-28t cassette will be about maximum that your RD can handle. These two would give you about 3-gears lower than what you have now or 26%.
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Thanks for the quick replies, and especially the great links.
Here's another thought. If I let my buddy test-ride my bike with a triple (53-42-30, 12-25) which combination should he be in to simulate the lowest gear on a bike with a 38 or 39 tooth chainring and 28 tooth rear cog?
Here's another thought. If I let my buddy test-ride my bike with a triple (53-42-30, 12-25) which combination should he be in to simulate the lowest gear on a bike with a 38 or 39 tooth chainring and 28 tooth rear cog?
#7
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Thanks for the quick replies, and especially the great links.
Here's another thought. If I let my buddy test-ride my bike with a triple (53-42-30, 12-25) which combination should he be in to simulate the lowest gear on a bike with a 38 or 39 tooth chainring and 28 tooth rear cog?
Here's another thought. If I let my buddy test-ride my bike with a triple (53-42-30, 12-25) which combination should he be in to simulate the lowest gear on a bike with a 38 or 39 tooth chainring and 28 tooth rear cog?
30/21 = 1.42
Small chainring, 3rd cog down.
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#8
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FWIW, a 39/32 (1.22) is about the same as a 30/25 (1.2). A 38/32 is slightly lower at 1.19.