Help with dissolving epoxy.
#1
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Help with dissolving epoxy.
This weekend I'm looking to strip a nice frame of what remains from a cheap spray-paint paint job to prepare it for a professional powder coating. But first, before I apply the paint stripper, I need to remove the cf seat post (which of course would not react well to paint stripper). I have a problem however. After getting the seat post the correct height, I epoxied a small ball bearing into the allen bolt that secures the seat post to prevent someone stealing my nice brooks saddle that was once attached to it. The bb/ball bearing was very close to the same size as the fitting for the allen wrench and the epoxy really sealed it in there good. So far I've tried acetone and paint thinner to dissolve the crazy glue/epoxy compound, but neither seemed to do the trick. Any suggestions?
thanks.
thanks.
#4
Yes, you can dissolve most epoxies. Is it just your usual 5,10 or 30 minute epoxy? The problem you've got here is giving the dissolving agent enough time to really soften the epoxy before it evaporates. If it is a polyester resin I'd poke a couple holes in any visible surface of the material, thoroughly swab it down with some MEK (Methyl Ethyl Ketone: it's related to Acetone, but evaporates much more slowly), stick a piece of foil over it and let it sit for a minute.... then repeat. Soften it up a decent amount, and pry it out with a pin. IIRC, I've had luck with naptha as well.
#5
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This weekend I'm looking to strip a nice frame of what remains from a cheap spray-paint paint job to prepare it for a professional powder coating. But first, before I apply the paint stripper, I need to remove the cf seat post (which of course would not react well to paint stripper). I have a problem however. After getting the seat post the correct height, I epoxied a small ball bearing into the allen bolt that secures the seat post to prevent someone stealing my nice brooks saddle that was once attached to it. The bb/ball bearing was very close to the same size as the fitting for the allen wrench and the epoxy really sealed it in there good. So far I've tried acetone and paint thinner to dissolve the crazy glue/epoxy compound, but neither seemed to do the trick. Any suggestions?
thanks.
thanks.

#6
#7
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Thank you everyone for offering such prompt and (hopefully) fruitful advise. I'm going to try some more acetone with tinfoil like Plynthbloxsuggested, followed by some heat treatments if needed. I'll report back (with news of success I hope.)
#9
If it were flat surfaces I'd agree that dissolving won't get him anywhere but I figured there may be enough openings for the solvent to fill in order to speed things up... dissolving isn't the goal though, just softening it enough to pry the bearing out with a tiny screwdriver or a stiff pin. Yeah, it might not work work though, it hasn't served him well thus far.
I don't think heat will get you too far unless you're using an open flame, the whole piece is a big heat sink (even with the epoxy somewhat isolating the bearing thermally) and a light duty soldering iron like most people have won't be up to the task at any rate. A pencil torch will do the job, don't keep it on there too long and remember it's going to reek like hell so keep it outside. If you do need to go this route, and you very well may, take a WET towel and wrap it around the seat tube to remove excess heat which may otherwise damage the stem; just to be safe.
I wouldn't use acetone either... it evaporates too quickly to really penetrate.
I don't think heat will get you too far unless you're using an open flame, the whole piece is a big heat sink (even with the epoxy somewhat isolating the bearing thermally) and a light duty soldering iron like most people have won't be up to the task at any rate. A pencil torch will do the job, don't keep it on there too long and remember it's going to reek like hell so keep it outside. If you do need to go this route, and you very well may, take a WET towel and wrap it around the seat tube to remove excess heat which may otherwise damage the stem; just to be safe.

I wouldn't use acetone either... it evaporates too quickly to really penetrate.
#10
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Or use a fiercely-toothed pliers to turn the bolt loose. Then throw the gnawed bolt away and get a new one.
One problem with the heat treatment is that even if you get the BB out, you've still got a socket filled with epoxy, ready to glom onto the hex key.
One problem with the heat treatment is that even if you get the BB out, you've still got a socket filled with epoxy, ready to glom onto the hex key.
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#11
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#13
#14
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It was originally secured in place by an overgenerous application of super-glue. It was removed with a simple lighter held in place for several seconds, and then loosened and dislodged with an exacto-knife.
Once again guys, thanks for all your help. I had tried everything, black-powder explosive was going to be the next resort (at least, it was under consideration).
Once again guys, thanks for all your help. I had tried everything, black-powder explosive was going to be the next resort (at least, it was under consideration).
#15
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#16
#17
Indeed, a VERY different scenario than presented. Just tapping it straight on with a hammer a couple times would have probably done the trick; it's worked for me several times in the past in different circumstances.
#18
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Next time you're in New Hampshire or somewhere close by in the New England area, shoot me an email.
charlywilkins@gmail.com
#19
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Yeah, believe me, I tried that. A sharp leather piercing awl and a hammer = No dice.






