greybum

Hi,
I have a set of BMX wheels and I believe the axle threads are M14 x 1.0. I'd like to tap a hole with the same thread but am having difficulty locating a tap - have tried 3 hardware stores, 2 industrial-supply, 3 automotive. Have also looked at a few web-sources without luck.

Can anyone confirm that 14mm x 1.0mm is a typical BMX axle-thread?

Any ideas where a I might find a tap? (preferably somewhere in California, south of Los Angeles.)

Thanks/Cheers!

Jeff Wills

Yes, 14 x 1mm is typical freestyle-bike axle threading:
https://harriscyclery.net/page.cfm?Pa...ils&sku=HU9023
but that's a "fine" thread, not "standard". Standard would be 14 x 1.25mm.

Most of the toolish people I know shop the McMaster-Carr catalog. It lists 14 x 1mm taps in three styles and right and left thread: https://www.mcmaster.com/#metric-taps/=2nx85j

Going to use BMX wheels on the front of a recumbent trike?

Mondoman

I was going to suggest NAPA auto parts (one of their local stores is the best auto parts store I've been to), but they only seem to sell 1.25mm and bigger taps in 14mm.

MudPie

As Jeff W says, McMaster Carr is an outstanding source. Also McMaster Carr's So Cal distribution facility is in Santa Fe Springs. I don't think they have store at that location, but you can buy online or over the phone. The item should arrive next day.

Another source is Grainger Industrial Supply. They do have stores you can shop at, but I don't think the stores stock every item offered in the catalog, but can probably get the item relatively quick. https://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg/start.shtml

Good luck!

kamtsa

Try mcmaster.com, I think they are in your area +/- 100 miles ;-)

Search in their site for example for item 26015A243, though they may have many other M14/1 taps.

Kam

greybum

Excellent! - Many thanks for McMaster-Carr link, Jeff.

The wheels go on an Axle made for towing a kayak. Picture shows current method of attachment - BMX axle butts-up-against 1/2" water-pipe, angle-iron "bridge" is hose-clamped to both. It would be much cleaner (and safer) if wheels simply screwed into [tapped] water-pipe.

P.S. I just realized there are several more (new) responses - Thanks to all who posted! (Nappa was a good suggestion - in fact it was one of the auto-stores I tried!)

Cheers!

DannoXYZ 

Your attachment method is fine as far as durability is concerned. The highest stressed point is where the water-pipe is clamped to the PVC tube and the carrying-plate. That pipe will crack just beyond the hose-clamps.

Personally I would suggest a more substantial 3/4" pipe the entire width with 14mm nuts welded/brazed to the ends for the axles to screw into. Then have an additional 14mm nut to lock.

greybum

Thanks for the tip! - will keep an eye on the PVC near the clamps. As is, the hose-clamps near wheels need to be watched - they can loosen over time, and I found one starting to crack. 3/4"? The 1/2" pipe hasn't bent yet and I'm loath to add any weight as yak & stowed-gear is already 90+ lbs.

Brazing bolt to pipe is a great idea - but I'm sans Acetyline (is Map-gas hot enough?) May look into this further, keeping in mind tap costs about $34 (plus tax/shiping.)

Thanks/Cheers!

Jeff Wills

Tow a kayak? Humbug! You need to make an amphibious recumbent trike kayak, like this:

https://autocanoe.com/





This ain't for me, though... I get seasick.

DannoXYZ 

I've built some stuff from 1/2" water-pipe and I can tell you it won't last very long; especially when water is concerned (especially salt water). I wouldn't trust it, especially in a cantilever un-triangulated design.

You'd be better off getting some 3/4" stainless-steel square tubing. It'll weigh about the same as the water-pipe due to the thinner wall-thickness. AND, it'll be much stronger and more fatigue-resistant for years of service rather than months.

And yes, you can braze the nut on with a MAPP torche. It'll take a while to get it hot enough, not ideal for bike-tubing, but fine for something like that.

greybum

Jeff,
LOL! An amphibious trike. In the words of a bunch of teens, upon seeing a bent (mine/with USS) for the first time:
"that's sick!".

Lighter, stronger, and more corrosion resistant? OK, I'm interested!

(Until the tap) I've been obtaining all building materials from a local hardware store. They have a selection of iron and aluminum stock - flat, round/threaded, angled, tubular, square-tubing - but I don't remember seeing stainless-steel. Ideally, the axle-design will be safe, functional, and low-tech (cheap.)

It would be a "no-brainer" if stainless was convenient to obtain and use - maybe there's a common/cheap stainless product - like shower-curtain rod - that could be cannabalized(?) Any ideas?

BTW, there's an old telescoping curtain-rod in my garage (is it stainless?) - I'm definately going to check-it-out.

Thanks/Cheers!

greybum

Hey DannoXYZ,
Just realized you had provided a link/source for stainless tubing. At less than $9 (for 3') it's cheap enough (of course there's shipping to consider...) and, like you said, at 0.61lbs/foot it's lighter that 1/2" IP. The next time the current system fails, I'll hunt for this material locally - thanks for the advice!