Starboy

Im new (to say the least) at the whole road bike scene, and managed to pick up a Cannondale SR600 frame. In the process of sandblasting / powder coating the frame and need some info. on what parts I need. As I said im new so I have no clue what kind of forks I need ie. threadless? size etc. All I know is that I have a frame and a front/rear 700m wheel. Any information or direction someone could point me in would be awesome! Oh and heres a pic of the frame I picked up:

Ex Pres 

Dent in the DT?
The DT/HT joint looks kinda wierd, too.
Bet it's a 126mm OLD rear, and those frames are supposedly pretty stiff. You may have fun putting a modern set-up in there, but if you're cool with DT shifters and 7s that's OK.
Visually the HT looks like a 1", and it's your choice of threaded or threadless.

If you don't have many components in hand you might be better off starting with a complete bike.

bikeman715

the rear will be 130, not 126 mm. the fork will have to be 1" .it started as a treaded one but any 1" will work. the dent in the down tube maybe ugly but the frame is sound. if the dent start feeling soft then you will have a problem. there also a dent in the chain stay. the one near the BB is normal for the crankarm th clear the stay. but the second one is not. look like this frame has been hit a few times.

Ex Pres 

I wasn't sure about that rear dent in the chainstay. I wouldn't expect one there, but not knowing C'dales, plus it looked too symmetric for me to say outright that it was damage.

I'd take the frame back where you got it and start over.

bikeman715

i agree with take it back and starting over.

Starboy

There is a a Dent on the DT (the dent is solid), but the one you brought up about the chain stay thiers one exactly on the other side? I got the frame for 20$, you think its worth trying to find a new one?

RichCT

You may want to check the serial number to determine the rear spacing. Go to vintagecannondale.com to figure out how to decode the serial number. I just picked up a 1992 r600 and it is spec'd with a 126mm rear spacing. I do plan on upgrading the DT shifters and 7 speed drivetrain to at least 9 speed sti. As I understand it, it's not a big deal to spread the spacing 4mm (2mm on each side) to accomodate newer wheels. . I would recommend going with a 1" threadless as it will allow you to use any 1" stem or 1 1/8" stem w/shim, the latter of which is readily available. 1" stems are few and far between and going with a 1 1/8" stem will allow you to use just about any bar/stem combo on the market.

RichCT

One more thing....early cannondales came with braze-on mounted front derailleurs. My frame has a label specifically saying NOT to clamp anything to the "high performance" tubing.

Ex Pres 

If you say the chain stay has identical 2X dents on both the drive and non-drive side chain stays then that really must be the way it came from the factory. You're OK then, except:

Is the front derailleur braze-on tab torn off?

Cynikal 

If you need to strip the paint off of this then use a chemical stripper. If you sandblast you could ruin the frame. Imagine if you sandblasted a beercan Seriously, they are thin.

RitterJD

I have this same frame, except for color, on an old R800. The dents on the chainstay are normal. One gives you chainstay clearance, the other, clearance for the crank.

The front derailleur was not braized on with this frame. There is a steel tab that bolted onto the tube. You can see these bolts in the picture but the hanger is missing.

HillRider

+1 You saved me a bunch of typing.

Note to the OP: If you already had the frame sandblasted, play taps and give it a decent funeral.

jsharr

The chain stay is relieved for crank clearance and chain ring clearance. Those are not dents.

Al1943

That means that it is a "braze-on" type of derailleur, even though it is not actually brazed on.
The tab is missing, I suppose one could be found or bought. Braze-on derailleurs of this type are very common now. There will be a limit on how low the derailleur can be adjusted. Could be a problem for smaller chainrings.

If new components are bought to upgrade this frame it will cost more than a completely new bike. And components compatible with the frame and with each other will likely be problematic (and educational).

ecovelo

I agree with Cynikal and HillRider... aluminum should not be blasted...only chemically stripped. When I researched painting a late 90's C'dale, I learned that powder coating is not the best choice either - temps get too hot. Not a bike-painting expert by any means... just what I learned when researching for myself. Good luck!