Shimano Bottom Bracket
 

Hey I need help trying to remove the other half of a shimano bottom bracket off of a 1980 schwinn traveller. I remove the other end using a spanner but, I'm not sure what type of tool i need to remove the other side or how to remove it. I included pics how this helps. thanks in advance.


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I can't see if there are any teeth or not due to all the grease. You either need a 20 tooth bottom bracket remover from Park for Shimano, or if this is the older style and you need the square tool like this for 32mm driver: http://www.icyclesusa.com/catalog/ic...acket-tool.htm which is also compatible with square and tapered. Or this for 1/2 inch drive http://www.icyclesusa.com/catalog/ic...-bike-tool.htm also for square or tapered. It could also be a locking ring I'm seeing, if so you might need a tool like this: http://www.parktool.com/products/det...=25&item=BBT-7

Always work on bottom brackets with the bike on it's side NOT on a stand.

Here's a site with detailed explaination as to how...just in case your not 100% sure: http://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=94 There is also tools mentioned for use for this repair, but I'm don't think...which I never do, but I digest...that yours will work with those tools but I could be wrong. Also click on the Park site on that page where it says: "Adjustable type Bottom Brackets", this will take you to another page about those kind of BB's and tools for those.

Or if still in the dark, you could always call your LBS and they can lead you in the right direction, or maybe one of the forums wrenchs will respond, no else responded so by me responding I pushed your post to the top where it might get seen again.

It's kind of hard to tell from the photos but that looks like a cup and spindle bottom bracket to me.

If that's the case, does it have a couple of flats on the drive side cup? If so, find a helper and chuck the flats into a sturdy bench vise. Figure out which way you have to rotate the frame to make the BB cup rotate clockwise relative to the frame. The drive side is sometimes, quite properly, referred to as "the fixed cup". It can take a good amount of torque to break it loose but the leverage gained by using the frame as I described has never failed me yet.

Yeah, you need this . . . http://www.lickbike.com/productpage....=%272468-00%27 or I used the 36mm end of my headset wrench without issue, but only if the fixed cup isn't seized on.

Note, you shouldn't remove the fixed cup unless you are putting a whole new bottom bracket in. You should just tighten the fixed cup up.

Check out Sheldon Brown on fixed cup removal. It's not generally fun. The summary:

1. pop the cup in a bench vise on the flats and use the frame as your lever. You usually only get a couple tries at this before you round the flats (or your vise). Remember - threads are reverse (righty-loosey).

or

2. Use Sheldon's fixed cup remover. My $.02 is not to use split washers on the inside - I cracked a cup using them.

i still like to use a headset press to hold my fixed cup tool (HCW-4) in place. if you don't have a press, you can make one with some all thread, some large washers (the hole in the washer should be about the same diameter of the all thread which should fit through the hole in the fixed cup, and the OD should be greater than the bb shell) and a couple of nuts.

to gain extra leverage i have used "the persuader" (FFS-2) with the HCW-4. along with the headset press holding the fixed cup tool in place, i've never been defeated. the reason why i don't using a bench vise is that:
1) the flats on the cup are generally pretty shallow, making it easy to slip out of the vise
2) it's difficult to hold the frame parallel to your bench vise, leading to the above
3) you have to remove the wheels... i'm lazy like that.

I think this tool is the correct tool.

And if that bb is at all stuck you'll want to secure the tool (put the axle back in) with something like the stein tool. Or your actual bb tool will slip and gg to you.

wipe it down and put it on a bench vise. It is left handed threaded so you will need to loosen it by turning clockwise. I had to do this just the other day however I managed to use a big adjustable wrench. What i did was get it on nice and snug and held onto it so it didnt slip while i pounded on the wrench with a mallet.

"IF" the bottom bracket is stuck, I wouldn't be pounding it with a big adjustable wrench and a mallet...at least not until you tried an easier route.

Clean all the grease out of the thing first, then hose the thing with BB Blaster, wait overnight then rehose it, wait about 10 minutes then try loosening with the proper tool.

If that doesn't work then, using the proper tool, try hitting it with a mallet. Using an adjustable wrench especially a cheap one could just round off the fixed cup then you will have a problem.

Make sure you check all the web sites everyone posted so you fully understand what you need to do. Reread especially Une Vitesse's post, that should work.

Yes, there are two flats on the thing. Proofide's tool would work.

If you don't care about the condition of the BB, a big nasty pipe wrench would also work.

If you'd clean the thing off well enough to read a model number, it might indicate the threading.

Pic
 

Thanks for all the responses and input everybody shared.

I think i have a seized bottom bracket. I'm not sure how to do this, so far i tried putting wd40 into the threads of the fixed cup BB. Using the Park HCW-4 holding it in place a all thread with some spacers. I tried using a hammer to force it to turn clockwise but, that it hasn't been successful. Any suggestions?


Thanks in advance.

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BTW also I was going to use PB Penetrating Catalyst to help assist me in the getting this out. Any recommendations would be more than welcome. Thanks once again.PB Penetrating Catalyst
PB Penetrating Catalyst

If the cup is seized in then the only option is to "break" it out. You will have to replace the cup when you are done. Go down to the hardware store and find yourself a heavy duty bolt and nut the same diameter as the spindle hole. Make sure the bolt has threads running right up to the head. Take it and place the bolt down thru the hole, thread the nut up the inside of the bb shell untill its tight against the cup. (use a socket for this) Secure your frame by the seat tube with a couple of frame blocks in a vice, making sure that you clamp right next to the bb shell. Then, grab a pipe wrench, (nothing else gives enough leverage, and anything else will slip), and grab onto the head of the bolt. Turn towards the head tube and the cup should break loose. When you have it out, spray some WD 40 into the bb shell and clean it out with a bristle brush mounted into a drill chuck.

Do not use wd40 it's not adequate for this job. Instead get a can of PB Blaster and hose it real well and let it set overnight, then rehose it and wait 10 minutes or so and then try to bust it loose.

You may have better luck with the Sheldon Brown method, if you haven't already tried it.

Otherwise, take it to a shop and have them use a professional grade tool to remove it:

http://os2.dhs.org/~john/fixed-cup-tool.jpg

the OP's on the right track. now all that needs to be done is to increase the leverage on the tool. a cheater bar, or the frame alignment tool works really well.

The problem with the stamped tools such as that used by the OP is that it's difficult to put a cheater bar on one. With the Sheldon Brown method, you are only limited by the size of your largest wrench (or you can clamp the bolt in a vise and use the frame for leverage). With the tool I referenced, you can use either a cheater pipe (illustrated) or clamp the flats on the tool body into a bench vise for leverage.

those park tools don't really give you any kind of leverage..plus that handle digs into your palm. I used a big adjustable wrench and tightened it down laterally in a similar fashion that you did. This wrench was way more comfortable (and longer) for me to grip and torque.

I want to say you should try and put a long pipe around the tool, but that one might damage your tool??

And finally, if you are going to destroy this bb, you might as well give that sheldon method a try. ...stacking washers and a nut and bolt and pretty much smashing the fixed cup between the two and using breaker bar or something.

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/tooltips/bbcups.html


if you are in boston, pm me, i have a breaker bar, some sockets, and that big ass wrench that will work.

did you soak it in pb over night?

and finally, what issue of martha stewart living is that?

Thanks for all the input once again. So far I hosed the cup down every hour during the day and let it sit overnight with PB blaster. Tried it to turn it clockwise. It did not work. I'm I turning the wrong way. It should be a English thread since its a Schwinn. I didn't soak the PB blaster though. I'll probably put some saran wrap at the bottom of the fixed cup and fill it up with some PB blaster and let that soak for a few days. Also that park tool HCW-4 probably works great with a fixed cup that isn't tight but, its impossible to get any leverage on it and it does dig into your hands. Also I'll probably try to get a rubber mallet instead of using a normal hammer.

So I will probably try to make one of those sheldon brown tools. I'll keep you all posted. Thanks for all your help. Hopefully I will be able to get this out.

@ Bluenote, I'm not sure which issue that was but, I do have a few of them. Its my lady's magazine. I would love to get rid of them. Any takers...LoL

STOP! You haven't told us why you want to remove it. If you're just doing an overhaul you should not remove it. Just clean it in place.

To everyone else, I often find that answering the original question is not as helpful as learning the reason for the question. This can prevent answering the wrong question. For all we know, lespuff just wants to clean and repack his bottom bracket.

Use a regular old hammer (heavier hammer swung slowly is better).

Whack it gently a couple of times in one direction, then in the other. Then decrease gentleness and repeat. Going in both directions will break it free, and cover the possibility of mistaking the thread direction. At some point you should be able to feel it shift, and you're on your way!

the ffs-2 works perfectly as an extender for the secured hcw shown in the OP's pic.
trust me, we see tons of seized cups in my shop, and for the longest time i've been using all the other methods mentioned in this thread: the bench vise, the long he-man adjustable wrench (i have a 3 footer at the shop). sheldon's tool works well too, but i have destroyed at least one cup using it (the washer sheared the surface of the cup)
the tool in your pic does indeed look like it would give sufficient leverage, and i assume it does have a way of being secured to the bottom bracket shell. do you have pics of the tool on a bike, or dissassembled? this isn't a park tool. what's the brand?