Stronglight Cranks
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: angus scotland
Posts: 600
Bikes: Grifter BSA 20
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Stronglight Cranks
Ive always liked the looks of old TA cranks. The ones with the small flange on the crank arm for the chainring.
I got a set of Stronglight cranks that are the same as TAs. Dont know if there just a different model of them.
They came with 48 and 34 TA chain ring. But no bolts.
I got another set of chain rings this week. 58 and 42 tooth TA rings with 6 bolts to hold them together. But there hex head. so dont fit in the recceses very nicely.
Im keen on small wheeled bikes so the big ring is handy. Im thinking of fitting the 58 ring, 48 ring and the 34 ring to the cranks. I dont know if its ok fit 3 rings to these cranks.
Would be handy if I could use Shimano MTB indexed shifters with them. Either Rapidfire or Gripshifts. Would a front mech handle a 24 tooth range though?
Also I got worried today thinking there old French bike parts. So have there own thread sizes. Yip it says on it. 14 X 125. I have tried an SPD pedal in it. When it was nearly screwed in all the way. There was a slight wobble/ endfloat on the pedal. I tried my Campag SGR pedals in there too. They are marked 9/16 X 20. Same reasonable fit. I have pedal washers I will use with them.
Do I need to get french pedals?
where can I get all the bolts to fit the chainrings together?
where can I get Campag SGR shoe plates, for reasonable money?
I got a set of Stronglight cranks that are the same as TAs. Dont know if there just a different model of them.
They came with 48 and 34 TA chain ring. But no bolts.
I got another set of chain rings this week. 58 and 42 tooth TA rings with 6 bolts to hold them together. But there hex head. so dont fit in the recceses very nicely.
Im keen on small wheeled bikes so the big ring is handy. Im thinking of fitting the 58 ring, 48 ring and the 34 ring to the cranks. I dont know if its ok fit 3 rings to these cranks.
Would be handy if I could use Shimano MTB indexed shifters with them. Either Rapidfire or Gripshifts. Would a front mech handle a 24 tooth range though?
Also I got worried today thinking there old French bike parts. So have there own thread sizes. Yip it says on it. 14 X 125. I have tried an SPD pedal in it. When it was nearly screwed in all the way. There was a slight wobble/ endfloat on the pedal. I tried my Campag SGR pedals in there too. They are marked 9/16 X 20. Same reasonable fit. I have pedal washers I will use with them.
Do I need to get french pedals?
where can I get all the bolts to fit the chainrings together?
where can I get Campag SGR shoe plates, for reasonable money?
#2
Old fart
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Appleton WI
Posts: 24,790
Bikes: Several, mostly not name brands.
Mentioned: 153 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3588 Post(s)
Liked 3,400 Times
in
1,934 Posts
You probably have a Stronglight model 49 crank; and yes, they can be set up for triple rings. You will likely need a longer BB spindle to get the proper clearance, however. A 24T jump on the front is pretty big. The problem you're likely to run into is that when the derailleur is set high enough to clear the 58T ring, the chain will drag on the cage pin when you use the 34T ring.
Velo-Orange has the bolts you need to attach the rings. The pedal threads can easily be re-tapped to English (9/16" x 20tpi) so you shouldn't have to source metric pedals. The other significant issue you should be aware of is that Stronglight cranks of that era use a unique extractor thread (23.35mm x 1.0) rather than the standard 22.0mm x 1.0 thread. TA's extractor is close (23.0mm x 1.0) but will usually strip a Stronglight crank if you attempt to use it to remove the arms. If you plan on maintaining the bike yourself, you will want to invest in the proper tool. These turn up on eBay occasionally; otherwise you can get a modern one from Velo-Orange but they're not cheap.
Velo-Orange has the bolts you need to attach the rings. The pedal threads can easily be re-tapped to English (9/16" x 20tpi) so you shouldn't have to source metric pedals. The other significant issue you should be aware of is that Stronglight cranks of that era use a unique extractor thread (23.35mm x 1.0) rather than the standard 22.0mm x 1.0 thread. TA's extractor is close (23.0mm x 1.0) but will usually strip a Stronglight crank if you attempt to use it to remove the arms. If you plan on maintaining the bike yourself, you will want to invest in the proper tool. These turn up on eBay occasionally; otherwise you can get a modern one from Velo-Orange but they're not cheap.
Last edited by JohnDThompson; 09-04-09 at 11:46 AM.
#3
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: angus scotland
Posts: 600
Bikes: Grifter BSA 20
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Yes thats them. Though the rings arent drilled like the picture.
I allready have a extractor that I got, was annoyed when it didnt fit anything. So it must be the 23.35 one you mention. Or its for taking engines to bits.
Ive got lots of spare front mechs. Might try to make a longer cage on one. Trouble is. I will probably put then cranks on a Raleigh 20. So would have to be a 31.8 mech. Only got 2 or 3 of that size.
I was thinking of using 2 outer rings and an inner. The pictures there seem to be 1 outer and 2 inners
Will have to experiment
Oh yes. All the chain rings, crank arms and postage cost about how much there charging for the bolt set.
I allready have a extractor that I got, was annoyed when it didnt fit anything. So it must be the 23.35 one you mention. Or its for taking engines to bits.
Ive got lots of spare front mechs. Might try to make a longer cage on one. Trouble is. I will probably put then cranks on a Raleigh 20. So would have to be a 31.8 mech. Only got 2 or 3 of that size.
I was thinking of using 2 outer rings and an inner. The pictures there seem to be 1 outer and 2 inners
Will have to experiment
Oh yes. All the chain rings, crank arms and postage cost about how much there charging for the bolt set.
#4
Old fart
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Appleton WI
Posts: 24,790
Bikes: Several, mostly not name brands.
Mentioned: 153 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3588 Post(s)
Liked 3,400 Times
in
1,934 Posts
Measure it carefully before you try it on your crank. If the thread diameter of the extractor isn't *AT LEAST* 23.15mm I wouldn't risk it on a Stronglight crank arm.
TA and Stronglight extractors look very similar. The salient differences are that a TA extractor uses a 15mm wrench, while a Stronglight extractor uses a 16mm wrench. The TA extractors are also marked with the TA logo:
Again, DON'T use a TA extractor on a Stronglight crank!
Last edited by JohnDThompson; 09-05-09 at 11:13 AM.
#5
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Mountain Brook. AL
Posts: 4,002
Mentioned: 14 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 303 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 136 Times
in
104 Posts
Fr pedal threading for the male thread, is about 1mm smaller than 9/16" threading. The thread
pitch is the same, or essentially for short thread lengths, which pedals are. 1" = 25.4mm
20TPI = 1.25mm pitch. If the 9/16 pedals go into the cranks you should be ok, though I suspect
an exam of the threadings will show some bits of aluminum knocked off. FWIW I have some
Lyotard Berthets in Fr thread.
pitch is the same, or essentially for short thread lengths, which pedals are. 1" = 25.4mm
20TPI = 1.25mm pitch. If the 9/16 pedals go into the cranks you should be ok, though I suspect
an exam of the threadings will show some bits of aluminum knocked off. FWIW I have some
Lyotard Berthets in Fr thread.