Calling all owners of non-working Shimano 10 speed brifters
10-24-09, 02:30 PM
#26
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Thread Starter
I work at an LBS that caters to the road market, and frankly I'm struggling to think of any failed 10-speed brifters over this last season.
OK, there were two or three left-hand 5600-series brifters that conked out when used on doubles (they were triple-capable), but Shimano covered them under warranty and has now split 105 into dedicated double & triple left-side brifters.
OK, there were two or three left-hand 5600-series brifters that conked out when used on doubles (they were triple-capable), but Shimano covered them under warranty and has now split 105 into dedicated double & triple left-side brifters.
Interesting. That same screw is Loctite'd in on the 10 speed shifters. I've had to drill the head off and remove the remains with an EZ-Out on both pairs that I've disassembled. Now I know why they started doing that.
10-24-09, 02:45 PM
#27
Senior Member
Thread Starter
joejack, an awesome RE effort! Please keep us in the loop.
Now, I gotta ask a technical question. How does the CMM operator get the part in digital form? It's hard to believe that someone would have to sit there with his little micro-calipers taking measurements. Is there a way to work from a scanned image? Or are the machines sophisticated enough to "feel" the outlines?
Now, I gotta ask a technical question. How does the CMM operator get the part in digital form? It's hard to believe that someone would have to sit there with his little micro-calipers taking measurements. Is there a way to work from a scanned image? Or are the machines sophisticated enough to "feel" the outlines?
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:91..._Meas_Mach.PNG
There is a small tip mounted on the end of a moveable head controlled by the operator through a joystick or the movement can be programmed using an existing CAD file. The tip contacts the part and it's deflection is used to records points around the part. These points can then be connected by lines, curves, and splines to create a 2D representation of the outline.
This 2D file is what I received. I took that file and created a parametric model of the component. This involved sketching in geometry and then constraining that geometry approximately how the original designer would have. With that parametric model, I can easily manipulate any dimension as needed. I can also extrude the 2D sketch to add thickness and make it a 3D part. I've already sent out for a quote on laser cutting this geometry through a website's online RFQ page. Much easier than having to create a full detailed 2D drawing.
Here's a screenshot of the 2D sketch I created. It takes a few dimensions to fully constrain a part like that. It's a little easier to see when you zoom in:
10-24-09, 05:42 PM
#28
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There is a small tip mounted on the end of a moveable head controlled by the operator through a joystick or the movement can be programmed using an existing CAD file. The tip contacts the part and it's deflection is used to records points around the part. These points can then be connected by lines, curves, and splines to create a 2D representation of the outline.
Btw, do you think there will be issues with the materials?
I'm sure the quote will depend a lot on quantity. Or will it? With NC machines, is setup even a significant cost any more? Seems like you've already done most of the work. I'd be interested (strictly curiosity) to know what numbers that come back with.
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Last edited by DMF; 10-24-09 at 05:45 PM.
10-24-09, 06:26 PM
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I'd MIM it.
10-24-09, 06:27 PM
#30
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What's MIM?
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10-24-09, 06:48 PM
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As a metal forming process, Metal Injection Molding (MIM) combines the material flexibility of powder metallurgy and the design flexibility of plastic molding. With properties comparable, or better than, those of wrought steel, the MIM process is ideally suited to producing small and complex-shaped parts with outstanding mechanical properties.
https://www.gknsintermetals.com/technology/mim.htm
https://www.gknsintermetals.com/technology/mim.htm
10-24-09, 08:57 PM
#32
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Loctite softens with heat. You can use a high watt soldering iron to free the screw without overheating anything.
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