BAL

I need to add a very good shop quality chain tool to my tool set at home.

As I will be getting a new Shimano 7900 groupo shortly and it will come with the 7900 chain; I would like to get recommendations for a chain tool for the 7900 that can be used on it and all other chains.

I have been using SRAM and Wippermann chains for the last 16,000 miles or about 4 years. Generally, I have avoided the Shimano chains as I didn't wish to mess with the replacement pins. But, I will try out the 7900 chain at least for awhile.

Any recommendations, regardless of cost?

Panthers007

Park Tool CT-3

https://www.parktool.com/products/det...at=5&item=CT-3

A good shop has one generally. And a CT-7 as well. And there are pliers' type.

operator

the CT-3 will not do the new 7900 dura ace chains, that the OP is planning on getting. The CT 4.2 will.

Panthers007

Thanks! I was wondering 'bout dat.

DaveSSS 

https://www.pedros.com/evolver.htm

Chop61

You did say regardless of cost...I like the one shimano makes.
https://biketoolsetc.com/index.cgi?id..._id=SH-TL-CN32

lukasz

Have you had a chance to try this out? A cheaper 11-speed tool would push me to upgrade -- don't like depending on the shop. Too bad I just got a Campy 10-speed tool, hah.

DaveSSS 

I have not tried the Pedros chain tool and won't since I bought the Campy 11 tool for about $140 last November. I just saw a posting about it today and thought I'd pass it along. It looks like a better idea than the Park tool.

While others were whining about the chain tool price, I bought two Campy Record 11 speed groups, 3 cassettes and 9 chains for hundreds less than they cost now, taking advantage of the currency exchange rates at the time.

DMF 

https://www.amazon.com/Shimano-TL-CN3.../dp/B001GSMKUS

johnknappcc

Sparing no expense . . . https://www.lickbike.com/productpage....=%270338-08%27

DMF 

Okay, smart ass, how do you get the chain apart to apply cited remedy?

operator

I'm not sure of that. The tolerances on the CN-UT300 tool makes it difficult to get the chain properly seated and removed from the cradle of the tool. The 2 tool Park design may make it faster to install the chain.

operator

You use the quicklink obviously, duh

johnknappcc

You can use a regular chain tool to size the chain, you only need the *special* one to install the *special* pins. No *special* pins needed with a SuperLink.

EDIT: As soon as you connect the two sides around a Shimano chain (Ultegra and up) you can hear the faint sound of a choir singing "Hallelujah!" Strange I know, but it's happened more than once.

operator

You realize that question was rhetorical right.

johnknappcc

Hence the asterisks around the word "special"

challaday

I haven't used the new Pedro's tool, but their previous one is very nice for the price. I paid about $40 for it and it works very well on 9 and 10 speed chains. There's even a little platform for the "guide pin" to rest on while you are inserting it into the link.

HillRider

The Park CT-4.2 is claimed to work with 8, 9, 10 and 11-speed chains so it's pretty much a one-size-fits-almost-all. However, Park says it won't work with Wippermann chains. I wonder why not.

operator

Wipperman forgot their kickbacks?

The campy 11 speed chaintool is annoying as **** to use. 30 tries to even get the damn link to seat down properly.

Metaluna

I've used the CT-4.2 and it's really nice. No little metal prongs to break off like on my CT-3. Instead, the link is held in place inside a metal cavity. Plus, the drive pin is long enough to allow you to push the pin all the way out of the chain which makes cutting new chains easier.

Panthers007

You've sold me. I'll just be picking up one of these CT-4.2 thingies...

DaveSSS 

The chain is a very tight fit, but pushing it down with a small screwdriver is all it took to get mine to seat down so the retaining clip would slip into place. I had to pry the chain out with the screwdriver too. Other than than, installing joining a new chain is a 5-minute process.

DaveSSS 

Wipperman chain have always lacked the common hourglass shape to the outer plates, like all other brands. The recessed area needs the hourglass shape.

HillRider

A couple of comments about the CT-3:

The first version had a cast aluminum body and the chain shelf (the "little metal prongs") were fragile and easy to break. I had one and they did indeed break. The later model has a steel body and seems pretty much bullet proof. Park sent me a free replacement and the steel one has been perfect.

Park installs a C-clip on the screw press to limit it's travel so you can't push the pin all the way out. This is a hold-over from the days of reusable pins where you didn't want to push the pin out of the far side plate if you were going to reconnect the chain. Remove the C-clip and you can push any pin completely out.

Panthers007

I never noticed that. I've always used the chain-tools by feel. And I've never managed to drive a pin all the way out. Nice to know it's of a similar mind by design.