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Rear derailer rebuild-Loccktite?

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Rear derailer rebuild-Loccktite?

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Old 10-31-09, 04:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Carbonfiberboy
......as accurate as Shimano, where at least the Ultegra group is plenty accurate enough to dispense with the float.
Are they accurate enough to dispense with the float or accurate because of the float. Tolerances in cassette cog spacing, brifter cable pull and cable length may be small but they are not zero and the float allows fast accurate shifting despite not havinh everything aligned perfectly.

Shimano, Campy and, I assume, SRAM don't build the extra float into their derailleur pulleys just for the fun of it.
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Old 10-31-09, 08:44 PM
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If you really want to use Loctite, use the purple stuff that is made for 1/4"and smaller screws. Just enough hold without being hard to remove. The Loctite product number is 222.
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Old 10-31-09, 08:53 PM
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Blue loctite works for me, and I don't have any problem removing the bolt later. This is on a Campagnolo Veloce derailleur.
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Old 10-31-09, 09:25 PM
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FWIW, the Park website says: "... Install and tighten pulley bolts to about 30 inch-pounds. Use of a mild thread locker is recommended."
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Old 11-01-09, 08:11 AM
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Maybe I've been lucky but I've never had a pulley bolt come loose after r&r of the pulleys. I'm sure using either Purple (Grade 222) or Blue (Grade 242) Loctite is a useful safety feature and I may do it in the future.

BTW, there are a lot of grades of Loctite that have the same color but are not the same strength. For example there are several grades of "Red" and several grades of "Green". Some are relatively weak and the fasteners can be removed with hand tools and others are so strong they require heat for removal. It's best to specify the grade number rather than the color.
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Old 11-01-09, 08:56 AM
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I've seen a pulley bolt come loose on a friend's bike. I also believe Campy assembles their RDs with blue thread locking compound. I use blue locktite.

As far as float, indexing and sealed bearings: I use Tacx sealed bearing pulleys on all my bikes (all Campy 9 and 10 speed). They have no float, but the upper pulley teeth are thinner than the lower ones. I'm guessing this mimics the float with the chain able to rock back and forth on the pulley itself.

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Old 11-01-09, 09:21 AM
  #32  
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Thanks all for fantastic input. I'm going with the Purple (Grade 222) Loctite. When I break down it tends to be way out there, so I want some security. Plus Purple is a groovy, far out Hendrix kinda color. Thanks all for a very healthy exchange.
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Old 11-01-09, 09:30 AM
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Originally Posted by HillRider
Are they accurate enough to dispense with the float or accurate because of the float. Tolerances in cassette cog spacing, brifter cable pull and cable length may be small but they are not zero and the float allows fast accurate shifting despite not havinh everything aligned perfectly.

Shimano, Campy and, I assume, SRAM don't build the extra float into their derailleur pulleys just for the fun of it.
Whatever, dude. I'm just saying I run pulleys with zero float, and have no problems. OTOH, I keep my bikes in good condition and properly adjusted, lube the chain regularly, avoid severe cross-chaining, and ride the hell out of them. YMMV.
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Old 11-01-09, 09:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Carbonfiberboy
Whatever, dude. I'm just saying I run pulleys with zero float, and have no problems. OTOH, I keep my bikes in good condition and properly adjusted, lube the chain regularly, avoid severe cross-chaining, and ride the hell out of them. YMMV.
I do all of the above, use the OEM pulleys, have no problems and also ride the hell out of the bikes. MMDV (My Mileage Doesn't Vary. )
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Old 11-01-09, 10:36 AM
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Originally Posted by HillRider
Maybe I've been lucky but I've never had a pulley bolt come loose after r&r of the pulleys. I'm sure using either Purple (Grade 222) or Blue (Grade 242) Loctite is a useful safety feature and I may do it in the future.

BTW, there are a lot of grades of Loctite that have the same color but are not the same strength. For example there are several grades of "Red" and several grades of "Green". Some are relatively weak and the fasteners can be removed with hand tools and others are so strong they require heat for removal. It's best to specify the grade number rather than the color.
Good idea. I've been using what was lying around, which happens to be red 271, "High strength, low viscosity threadlocker." Makes a little pop when removing, but doesn't require heat on these low engagement screws. I don't use Locktite on any other bike parts. Anyone use it on other bike parts? I suppose one could use a low strength threadlocker on chainring bolts - I once had them come loose on a new crankset, but never on a crankset I'd been into.
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Old 11-02-09, 02:50 PM
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Originally Posted by operator
Either way, if you can give me one reason why grease is superior to loctite in this situation i'll stop using it.
Well, I don't typically grease my threads; 30W motor oil if anything. But I don't see LocTite® doing any harm - just one extra step. So if it feels good, do it.
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